When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
so I was driving the vette the past two days and I bled the brake lines on sunday. had a rock hard pedal, then started driving it the past two days and the brake pedal is getting worse over time.. meaning it gets mushy
if I pump the brakes up they get firm again but its still scary to know that they wont be there if I need them quick.
this leads me to think that my master cyl is either toast or needs to be bled, since its not leaking, I dont think its shot. is there a trick to bleeding that?
Check the rear rotors for runnout. Think about it. If you have a hard pedal after you bleed it, it aint the master cylinder. It is air pumping into the rear rotors.
Last edited by wombvette; Mar 16, 2005 at 02:40 AM.
Check the rear rotors for runnout. Think about it. If you have a hard pedal after you bleed it, it aint the master cylinder. It is air pumping into the rear rotors.
Wipe your calibers and inside of your wheels clean. Take it for a spin, using your brake long enough for the pedal to become soft, and check for leaks. I had a similar situation and could see the brakefluid inside the wheel.
Check the rear rotors for runnout. Think about it. If you have a hard pedal after you bleed it, it aint the master cylinder. It is air pumping into the rear rotors.
You can easily check the rear rotors for runout with a dial indicator, available from Harbor Freight for cheap. If the runout is more than .003", turn or replace.
Wipe your calibers and inside of your wheels clean. Take it for a spin, using your brake long enough for the pedal to become soft, and check for leaks. I had a similar situation and could see the brakefluid inside the wheel.
extremely common, and somtimes it is an indication that the dreaded rear wheel bearing job will need to be done soon, almost as common as the rotors not being true. peace,,, Moosie
Probably not the master cylinder. Sounds like a wheel caliper leaking. Check all four calipers not just the rears. Over Christmas I rebuilt all four calipers, both front and one rear were leaking.
If the car is in the Richmond area I can help with the rebuild and you can borrow my pressure bleeding unit.
Roger
I might as well just replace them, they appear to be original yet turned before
If the original rivets are still in place they likely are sufficiently thick to withstand some machining unless someone used an on-car machine. Check them with a mike. I just pulled all of my original rotors and sent them down to the machine shop for resurfacing since there was still plenty of meat (yes, they will be dial indicated when I reinstall them). And my car has over 100,000 miles. Of course, new rotors do look sexy.
Check the rear rotors for runnout. Think about it. If you have a hard pedal after you bleed it, it aint the master cylinder. It is air pumping into the rear rotors.
This is one of the biggest problems as the 4 piston calipers act as air pumps if the rotors are out of round and suck air in - bingo the peddle goes mushy. Check the run out on all 4 and should be no more than .003-.004". This is very easily achievable when they are turned and indexed to get the least runout.
If you find fluid on your back wheels, I'd recommend rebuilding the calipers with VBP O-ring pistons. First of all, it's easier to do than the lip seal style and second, it will help if you have some air pumping due to excesive runout. If your rear wheel bearings are going bad, it may not compensate, but it will help.
If the back of the M/C is soaked by a NEW not rebuilt M/C. Still check the rotors for runout-replacing them with new rotors will not garantee runoutunder .003" they may, in fact, be worse. If the rotor isn't scored or warped then 100 grit paper on a D/A is all you need for surface finish. Since you have original 36 year old rear bearings you might have to look there. Fix the M/C first then bleed the system. Bench bleed the M/c before installing - go to NAPA and get the metric brake line adapters that fit the M/C and cut the ends off. Screw them in place bend the line up and into each reservoir and you have the best m/c bleeder there is.
Gary