I'm interested in part #pk12497698 from GM parts direct or something similar from SDPC #12497698. I run dual spals and a brace up front. Is that enough extra room? My short wp won't allow me to use better alt bracket.I need a new A/C pump and more amps from better Alt anyway. Will this kit fit my 74? How much will I need to change? This is a good time for me to change over. Any advice. I hate the current set up. If 1 belt brakes, I have to take everything apart. I wouldn't mind having just 1 extra belt. I want to be rock solid this summer! TIA

Rick

 

Im in the process of installing one now,so far the brackets are on ,wp,crank pulleys, I bought the ac delete for now,.....I got all my stuff from the pick a part yard... all it is are 88 thru 92 f-body and caprice cars,you need the wp also ,on the ps just remove the big hex nut where the pressure hose hooks to and install the one out of your old one, that way you can use your hoses,oh yea ac delete and smog pump delete pulleys at some gm dealership that sell performance parts,one more thing ,on the pulley that replaces the smog pump you have to turn it upside down and grind on it so it will fit,because installing it the right way interfers with the a arms on passenger side....

 

There are some that have installed the F-body setup and are very happy. I have a C4 Vette setup on mine and it works well too. I think either will clear. The Vette setup does have a shorter water pump if clearance is at a premium.

 

I've answered questions like this before. I have a serpentine kit mounted on my ZZ4 and is in turn is mounted on a 69 spare frame for fit checkout. I bought the serpentine kit that included the water pump, the alternator, and the power steering pump. I didn't get the kit that had the air con compressor - my kit has an air con compressor delete idler wheel. Also, my kit did not have the smog air pump - once again, I got another idler wheel to replace the pump.

The biggest problem is the idler wheel that replaces the smog air pump. The wheel has an interference fit with the passenger's side upper control arm shaft (the shaft that attaches to the frame.) This interference can be avoided by installing the wheel bearing assembly upside down and thereby moving the idler wheel inward away from the control arm. One person in the formum installed his serpentine by not installing this idler wheel. Said it worked fine. (You have to buy a shorter belt.)

The serpentine kit has a "long" water pump and it is reverse rotation. With the kit, you have to use this pump. It's cast iron, and you can buy aluminum versions. The power steering pump is theaded to metric hose fittings. You can fabricate a custom hose, or replace the power steering pump "Spam can" housing with the housing from an earlier power steering pump.

You need electrical fans, because the water pump is reverse rotation. The serpentine kit comes with a 100 amp alternator, so you'll have adequate power for the fans.

The serpentine kit is basically the same as the serpentine system that was factory stock for the 1991/1992 Camaros and Firebirds. (My understanding.)

 

 

The GM part number for the lower idler (the smog pully delete idler) is 10129569. The part number for the Air Con compressor idler pully is 10055890. If you use the air conditioning compressor, the kit is designed for the R134A R4 radial compressor. The alternator is a CS130 Series Delcotron; part number 10463172. The reverse rotation water pump is 88894005 (cast iron; aka Detroit wonder metal.)

 

mine is out of a 91 RS camaro, and works great

 

As long as we're talking about this Serpentine Kit..

I'd like to replace the crankshaft pully, with a lesser diameter pully. This pully was designed as a general purpose steet application pulley. Looking at the diameter of this pulley and the pully of the water pump and alternator, these accessories will spin at unnecessarily high rpms if I rev the ZZ4 to, say 5000 or 5500 rpm, and they'll soak up a lot of horsepower.

Anyone have suggestions as to where to buy a replacement with a smaller diameter?

 

I run my Formula with no AIR pump or pump delete pulley with no problems, just need a shorter belt that is routed a little diff.

 

fevre, i want to take off my smog pump, how did you reroute
your belt
I know I need a shorter belt, aprox, how much shorter.

 

I have powersteering but this gives you an idea



Courtesy of thirdgen.org tech pages:
http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/serpentine.shtml

 

I have P/S to can you show me a pic of yours?
what length belt did you have to replace the original with?.
the torque is making my pump kiss my control arm. Even after
I modded it.

 

I think some of the TBI truck air-pump brackets have a place for a lower idler pulley on the bracket. You could then use a stock lower idler and belt length.

 

Thanks for all the info. I'm still not sure what to do. I need an A/C pump and a hi output alt. My ps is new "VB&P" My 74 does not get smogged, no pump needed. Can I get just the pulleys from a F car and add a A/C pump and alt? What would fit best? I want to end problems w/multiple belts. I have a short wp, I can get a long w/p no problem. Does wp need to be reverse? I want to have this worked out before I start buying parts. I like the idea of getting most a pick/pull. Sounds like I could get off much cheaper than the $650 I was planning to spend. Thanks for all the help. Now for the Sp Ed version for the slow people like me. What's my best move?

Rick

 

Got mine from a C4.. Air Pump delete brackert and swapped out the saginaw steering pump for a modern one. Why reinvent the wheel?

Good Luck

 

http://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/tech/serpentine.shtml
I just followed the directions from the link above using the belt length mentioned to start with, think I had to get a belt that was slightly diff in length.

 

This installation doesn't have a smog/idler pulley wheel. Notice the relatively long belt run from the air con compressor to the crankcase pulley..I was concerned that this relatively long belt run might start vibrating at high rpm. That why I plan to install the idler pulley (although upside down to avoid interference with the control arm.) Installing the belt as shown in the picture is the most straight forward. Maybe I shouldn't worry so much about unknown things!

In answer to someone elses question - the pump has to be reverse rotation.

Anyone know where I can find a smaller diameter crank pulley? I'll look at March's pulleys and do an internet search. Anyone know off the top of their head of another pulley manufacturer? Thanks

 

Doesn't seem to vibrate at 6000 rpm's. Think if it was a non-tensioner system you might experience it.

 

Thanks! Looks like I'm good to go as is.

 

FYI in case you guys didn't hit the link or had a problem with it, here is a pic with a P/S pump in place:



I think I routed mine a little diff (would have to go look at :o ) Mine is like the first pic but I looped the belt over from the bottom of the w/p pulley, around the p/s pump pulley then back to the crank pull. I do not seem to be getting any slippage.