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Power steering control valve/steering ram

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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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Default Power steering control valve/steering ram

I put control valve and steering ram in the title because I've heard it referred to as both. I remember reading that it was adjustable. When the car is started with the front end on jackstands, the tires turn all the way to the right. How do I correct that?
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 01:54 PM
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On the control valve there is a small dust cover that needs to be pried off to access the centering screw. Then it's a matter of turning the screw until the valve drives the other direction, then back until it drives in the first direction, then adjust the screw exactly halfway in between. You should be able to turn the wheels in either direction by hand when the valve is properly centered.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 01:58 PM
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The steering ram is the hydraulic assist cylinder.

The adjustment on the valve is actually a nyloc nut but the procedure described by big fish is correct. Since the nut is a nyloc (nylon linered locking nut) you should try to get the setting correct without too much turning of the nut, if you turn it both ways a lot of times the nylon will get threaded too much and not lock very good which may lead to the adjustment slowly getting lost
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 02:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Ak. Mal
I put control valve and steering ram in the title because I've heard it referred to as both. I remember reading that it was adjustable. When the car is started with the front end on jackstands, the tires turn all the way to the right. How do I correct that?
Make sure steering wheel stays centered on it's own when you test after adjustment. A shop installed a control valve on mine,and neglected to adjust,and I went up in smoke at 75mph !!
The over-pressure blew my hoses.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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Mine is doing the same thing.. only turning that screw didn't change anything. If yours is original you may very well be looking at swapping it out. Van Steel & VB&P both sell them, I think they're $90 + the core charge.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
The steering ram is the hydraulic assist cylinder.
Thanks for clearing that up. I've been working on my car for 17 months but this is the first time I've paid any attention to the steering.

The previous owner said he replaced the control valve shortly before selling the car. I don't think he ever centered the steering. Also, I have a fluid leak at the control valve. I'm guessing he didn't tighten the hydraulic lines enough when installing. He did that on the oil sending unit also.

If I were to lose hydraulic pressure while driving, would I still be able to steer the car? Would it be like driving without power steering?
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 02:54 PM
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The shop manual says to disconnect the ram at the frame attachment when performing the valve balance procedure. I think they want as little system friction as possible when you balance the valve. It could be that the mass of the tires and the ball joint friction could mask some of the unbalance.

It's a little more work but it will insure that the valve is accurately balanced.

Jim Shea
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 02:59 PM
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I would actually recommend taking the cylinder loose at the piston rod side. Even with the wheels hanging free, there will still be significant resistance in the system. With no load on the piston, you'll be able to get a more accurate center.

Originally Posted by Ak. Mal
The previous owner said he replaced the control valve shortly before selling the car. I don't think he ever centered the steering. Also, I have a fluid leak at the control valve. I'm guessing he didn't tighten the hydraulic lines enough when installing. He did that on the oil sending unit also.
They all leak. If someone tells you that they have one that doesn't, they're either lying, haven't checked for leaks, or it hasn't leaked yet (it will). You can check the lines, but I doubt that's the source. So I have to top mine off a few times a year *shrugs* I figure that at least I'm keeping fresh fluid cycled in.

If I were to lose hydraulic pressure while driving, would I still be able to steer the car? Would it be like driving without power steering?
Absolutely, I drove my '76 around for over a year before I got around to fixing the PS. I didn't even swap the ratios. As long as you're moving, it's not too bad. Parking was a royal pain though.

Last edited by wcsinx; Mar 23, 2005 at 03:08 PM.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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It doesn't have a small leak. It leaves a large puddle. It has done it twice in the past couple weeks. I wouldn't be suprised if the resevior was almost empty.

I finally have the mufflers on and for the first time can let the car just sit and idle for long periods of time without offending the neighbors. The two times I've done this it has left a large puddle of power steering fluid under the control valve.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Ak. Mal
Thanks for clearing that up. I've been working on my car for 17 months but this is the first time I've paid any attention to the steering.

The previous owner said he replaced the control valve shortly before selling the car. I don't think he ever centered the steering. Also, I have a fluid leak at the control valve. I'm guessing he didn't tighten the hydraulic lines enough when installing. He did that on the oil sending unit also.

If I were to lose hydraulic pressure while driving, would I still be able to steer the car? Would it be like driving without power steering?
Yes,but avoid steering in tight turns.I had to drive 17 miles after cutting belt to save pump.I would not drive far that way.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Ak. Mal
It doesn't have a small leak. It leaves a large puddle. It has done it twice in the past couple weeks. I wouldn't be suprised if the resevior was almost empty.
Ahh .. a puddle, well that's different

The last time I left a puddle, it was because I blew a line. How are your lines? Have they ever been replaced? Mine were brittle and hard as a rock. You might want to replace all of them for peace of mind if nothing else. If you still leave puddles after that, then you go after bigger fish.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by rihwoods
Yes,but avoid steering in tight turns.I had to drive 17 miles after cutting belt to save pump.I would not drive far that way.
Bah, I drove a couple thousand miles without my PS. Just don't forget to eat your wheaties.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by wcsinx
Bah, I drove a couple thousand miles without my PS. Just don't forget to eat your wheaties.
It is possible,but you can do some damage to your system.You are right about wheaties,though.
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Old Mar 23, 2005 | 05:06 PM
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I replaced my steering ram because there was wear on the actual shaft, but the steering control valve I rebuilt in a couple of hours, (including coffee break). It works great, and I have no leaks anywhere yet. The rebuild kit was cheap. Under $20. I too had to center the valve. Steers great now. Oh yea, I also changed the steering gear.

y.v.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:30 AM
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I probably shouldn't post this because of the embarrasment factor, but, my leak was from me overfilling the power steering resevior. When I would start the car it would puke out what was too much. Then, after it warmed up it got rid of the rest.

I tightened all the hydraulic lines and centered the steering on the control valve. I adjusted the play in the steering box with two small adjustments to the screw on top. Now, my steering doesn't leak, it's centered and there is little play left in the steering.

It seems I have learned quite a bit about my steering and at the same time gotten very lucky by not having to replace anything....yet.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 11:18 AM
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The procedure for adjusting the steering gear is pretty specific.... you are supposed to use an inch pound torque wrench to make the adjustment with the steering disconnected. Doing it without following the procedure (over-tightening the adjuster) can lead to severe grear wear & damage. I always do these "on the bench" with the correct procedure. JIC/FYI
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