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From: Kansas City, MO ...I'd like to go fishing and catch a fishstick. That'd be convenient. - Mitch Hedberg
Slop in the steering
I took my car out for a couple test drives around the block last night. What a feeling. The most notable problem I have now, is that there is a ton of slop in the steering wheel. Where do I need to start looking to track this down?
My 96 Chevy p/u suffers from the same, but less pronounced problem. My father in law adjusted the steering gear box on my truck and took most of the problem away. I'm curious to know two things. First, how much can I tighten the steering gear box with the adjustement screw without causing damage? And two, how hard are they to replace if I need to?
Visually check your flexible coupling first. Have someone inside the car, steer it left and right. The rubber disc should not be cracked or broken. The stop pins should not show any deep wear marks. If the part looks like it needs replacing, I recommend the original GM part and not the rebuild "kits" that are also available. The GM part (#7818568) for the 1969 through 1982 models is available through GM dealers and also through numerous Corvette suppliers.
If you want to adjust the steering gear, I recommend that you download and read the following paper on the procedure.
I had a lot of play in my steering box, It was nearly impossible to get any of the adjustments to even move, they were frozen up tight. I replaced it with a rebuilt, it solved most of my steering slop. Of course I replaced all the joints, bushings, ends, and valve before I got to that point.
Ak, I just PM you some info. I agree, stay away from the cheap joint kits. Watch out too on some of the "rebuilt" boxes,if they're anything like the "rebuilt" box I opened up a month ago you're not much better off.
get someone in the car to barely rock the steering wheel back and forth, only as much range as there is play. See where it stops moving parts. Look at the shaft, check the pitman arm, etc.
I have about 1/2" play in my wheel. I noticed the steering wheel and shaft were moving in unison. So was the pitman arm, but the wheels were not. I it turns out there is a little play where the pitman arm connects to the control valve. I'll get to it one of these days, 1/2" isn't too bad, just a little irratating.
Seems like the three most "slop wearing" parts are either the rag joint, steering box or the control valve. Also the C3 steering link has two "inner" tie rods & two "outer" tie rods, which are "wearable" areas.
I have had both my Silver '75 & Blue '68 Corvette's steering box rebuilt by Bair's for $159. When they are done with it & you get it back, it looks & performs like a brand new steering box.
A long, long time ago.... there was an article in one of the Vette mags about a guy who rebuilds the boxes.
I believe (correct me if I'm wrong) the bushings can wear, and if they do, replacing them is not a simple press-in deal. There is some align honing/boring that must be done to properly overhaul a box.... to make sure the bushing & gear centerlines are concentric.
Nobody is going to do that for $159.
I wonder what they really do for that $159 ?
What if the gears are shot? Not all gears are re-useable.
There are two bushings that support the pitman shaft. You press out theold ones and press in the new ones. You will have something like 0.003 or more clearance. This is the way it came (brand new) from the factory.
Norval Wilhelm custom made his own bushings, pressed them in place, and then honed them to exactly fit his pitman shaft. He is running about 0.001 clearance. He indicates that this eliminates all side to side motion of the pitman shaft that translates to lost motion between the steering wheel and road wheels. This procedure makes for a more precise gear.