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Brake master cylinder ????

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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 09:59 AM
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Default Brake master cylinder ????

Brake light started coming on last week and now the question is " Is my Master cylinder going bad?" Pedal feel has dropped slowly over the last two months. And now to the point of very little brakes. I hate to just replace the whole system, but at under $400, it seems practical. What would you guys do?
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 10:08 AM
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Easy enough to remove and rebuild or replace the MC, but that
usually opens the proverbial can of worms. The fitting gets rounded
so you replace a line .. then rubber lines .. then all lines ...

I'd say if you are seriously considering it, do it all at once.
However, some of the lines are a PIA to get with the body on.

I rebuilt my calipers with VBP Oring kit. It's pretty easy to do,
but lots of time cleaning and painting. Plus, you'll want to
open yours up to verify that they are rebuildable - first.

If the rubber lines are original - definitely replace them.
I bought the stainless fex hoses at ZIP (Russel brand).
They are very nice, but be careful not to mess up the fitting end
of your hard lines.

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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 10:10 AM
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If you have dry calipers they are probably fine. Loss of fluid is a good indicator of condition there. If you have fluid loss out the back of the master cylinder, it is probably toast. I would look for leaky fluid and go from there.

You might have a rotor with a lot of runout. If so, you can pump in air as the pads go in and out with the rotor. That will give you a spongy pedal that goes away with bleeding but comes back with more driving.

Start there and see what you find.

-Mark.
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 10:15 AM
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Fluid seems to stay at full, but the back bowel is real dirty.
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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I agree, if you calipers are dry they're most likely fine. I replaced all lines with the body on and it's not as bad as many say... it is a pain but very doable...

How bad (or old) are your lines ? Since breaks are pretty important I'd replace them all .... the lines, ss breaded hoses and the (new) MC are less than $400..... more like $300.....
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 10:34 AM
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Gradual loss of brakes is either air in the system or a bad master cyl. Bleeding will fix the first, but sometimes the reason for the air is warped rotors. Chevy went to great pains to get them true, even riveted them to the hubs so they wouldn't get rotated. Try bleeding and see if the problem goes away and stays away. Joe

PS if you decide to get a new master cylinder, rockauto.com as new ones for $50-60, less 5% if you enter this code:

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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by RedBad1979
I agree, if you calipers are dry they're most likely fine. I replaced all lines with the body on and it's not as bad as many say... it is a pain but very doable...

How bad (or old) are your lines ? Since breaks are pretty important I'd replace them all .... the lines, ss breaded hoses and the (new) MC are less than $400..... more like $300.....
Doesn't Muskegon have a kit for under $400. MC, lines, and calipers?
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Budman78
Doesn't Muskegon have a kit for under $400. MC, lines, and calipers?
I don't think it includes the hard lines - and the hoses are not braided......if your calipers are fine, why worry about these ? How old are the calipers and do they leak ??
If you really want to replace the calipers, AutoZone has them for $60 each (with LTWarranty) and you don't have to wait to get the money for the core charge back.... just bring the old ones in when you buy the new ones....
let's see: $240 calipers, $25 pads (AutoZone), $150 stainless lines, $60 ss braided hoses, $80 new MC (f.e. MidAmerica) ..... you can get the entire system done for $555 plus a little extra for shipping and smalll items..... not bad at all....(BTW, that's exactly what I bought and installed, works great)
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 10:47 AM
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i always like to diagnose a problem before i do the shot gun approach to fixing it...
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Old Mar 26, 2005 | 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
i always like to diagnose a problem before i do the shot gun approach to fixing it...
I agree - if the calipers are not leaking they're likely not the problem....

I'd replace everything except the calipers first, the calipers can easily be done later....
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