Cylinder Wall Scuff - Sleave?
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Melting Slicks
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From: Virginia Beach Virginia
Cylinder Wall Scuff - Sleave?
After getting an engine bored at the shop, a moonshaped scuff (about 3" long, but not deep enough to measure) was found in a cylinder wall. I'd like to use the block and some friends recommended using a sleave to ensure that a piston ring did not catch. However, the machine shop says that the scuff will not be a problem and that there is no reason for a sleave. Does anyone have any experiences with such problems?
Thank you!
:Cheers:
Thank you!
:Cheers:
Race Director
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From: Central Arkansas
This will primarily get you back to the top but, did they also hone the cylinders for you too, or just overbore it? If this was a prepared block, honed and ready for pistons and crank I would take it back to the shop. If it still has to be honed and you can't physically measure the depth of the scuff, I would think it might hone out just fine. You didn't state what overbore you had done but unless you are already at 60 thousands over, at worst they might have to overbore the next size. Shouldn't have to sleeve.
Dan
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Sleeving for an immeasurable scuff is not necessary. THe only reason you'd need to put in a sleeve is if you've got a groove or something that's deeper than the bore would be cut if it was bored out.
You didn't mention if the block has been bored already. If you're under 0.060, you can always bore it out a little more. Sleeving is really reserved for a really damaged cylinder.
You didn't mention if the block has been bored already. If you're under 0.060, you can always bore it out a little more. Sleeving is really reserved for a really damaged cylinder.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
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From: Virginia Beach Virginia
Originally Posted by ddecart
Sleeving for an immeasurable scuff is not necessary. THe only reason you'd need to put in a sleeve is if you've got a groove or something that's deeper than the bore would be cut if it was bored out.
You didn't mention if the block has been bored already. If you're under 0.060, you can always bore it out a little more. Sleeving is really reserved for a really damaged cylinder.
You didn't mention if the block has been bored already. If you're under 0.060, you can always bore it out a little more. Sleeving is really reserved for a really damaged cylinder.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Eastern US XX
Originally Posted by VolVette
The bore was 30 thousanths, but the machine shop said that even if they bored another 30, the scuff would probably be there. I also purchased new pistons to fit the new bore and would prefer to use them.
Drifting
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,347
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From: Slidell La
.030 to .060
I agree if boring to .060 will leave the scuff there is an issue.
Now can you see the scuff. MY ROT is if you can feel it with a finger nail it is an issue. If not it is ok. Normally you can feel a scratch of .002" with a finger nail is you do it right. And you can't measure a scratch very well. But if they told you boring another .030 will leave the scuff I would look closely at the shop doing the work.
Just my $.02 worth. 99 Nassau Blue
Now can you see the scuff. MY ROT is if you can feel it with a finger nail it is an issue. If not it is ok. Normally you can feel a scratch of .002" with a finger nail is you do it right. And you can't measure a scratch very well. But if they told you boring another .030 will leave the scuff I would look closely at the shop doing the work.
Just my $.02 worth. 99 Nassau Blue
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
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From: Raleigh North Carolina
Not answering your question.... because I would have to see the block myself to render an opinion, but...
Next time you build an engine, anticipate the overbore by mic'ing the block & assessing taper etc, buy your pistons, and bring at least one piston to the machine shop along with the block.
Pistons vary in dimension enough to make final honing dependant on the piston that will actually be used.
I owned & operated my own automotive machine shop... and I would never bore a block without having a piston in hand ahead of time.
Next time you build an engine, anticipate the overbore by mic'ing the block & assessing taper etc, buy your pistons, and bring at least one piston to the machine shop along with the block.
Pistons vary in dimension enough to make final honing dependant on the piston that will actually be used.
I owned & operated my own automotive machine shop... and I would never bore a block without having a piston in hand ahead of time.
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From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
Originally Posted by Tom454
I owned & operated my own automotive machine shop... and I would never bore a block without having a piston in hand ahead of time.
That's Engine Building 101, Chapter 1, page 1, paragraph 1...you match the piston to the bore.
As someone else mentined, look for another shop....they missed the point...totally.
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Originally Posted by jimcork1
if they told you boring another .030 will leave the scuff I would look closely at the shop doing the work.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2000
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From: Virginia Beach Virginia
Originally Posted by ddecart
Ditto that and everything else these guys have said.
I made a mistake, the machine shop said that if they bored another 30, the scuff would go away.
Ugh. The truth hurts sometimes. What surprises me most is that we did not see the scuff in the cylinder before bringing it to the shop. I am trying to get my brother to send me pictures so I can post them.
Thanks for all the replies so far.
Last edited by VolVette; Mar 30, 2005 at 01:32 PM.
