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Heim joints w/ Smart Struts

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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 08:10 AM
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Default Heim joints w/ Smart Struts

I'm replacing my poly ends with heim joints on the Smart Struts. The heim joints are narrower than the poly ends. Will washers be ok to take up the extra space? I plan on shimming them to remove any slop.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 08:16 AM
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there is not much side to side movement in the rear so it should be OK. Just make sure the rods do not bind on the washers or they will break.

I used short pieces of tubing that just fit over the bolt.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 08:23 AM
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If you don't have a lathe, get a threaded rod and chuck it in a drill, mount the drill in a bench vise. Then put a nut on the threaded rod, throw on a couple of washers that you intend to use, and another nut and tighten it down. Then start the drill and with a flapper disc in a grinder take down the outer diameter of the washers, that way you can make properly fitting washers that won't bind the rod end.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 08:24 AM
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Will adding heim joint to the strut rods be any more noticeable in handling? Also will the heim joints make more noise than the poly bushings?
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 08:29 AM
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The heim ends will not allow the bushing to deform so it won't give unwanted responses, however without proper seals they wear out rather quickly, dirt is death to a rod end, poly bushings will not deform near as much as rubber so for a nice street car they are fine. IMO rod ends only are beneficial if you have attributed all the shortcomings of the stock suspension and made sure the mounting points are sturdy, just adding rod ends won't do a thing but negatively affect your bank account.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 09:22 AM
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I'm adding rod ends to try and eliminate the twisting of the strut rod. After only a few hundred miles, my jam nuts were loose.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesx0
I'm adding rod ends to try and eliminate the twisting of the strut rod. After only a few hundred miles, my jam nuts were loose.
Exactly what I have in mind, post some pics and part numbers when you get it complete if you can, nots sure when I am going to get to mine.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 12:39 PM
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I've been running teflon rod ends for about 4 years now. Still tight. It's not a DD tho...

I also run seals on them now.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by jamesx0
I'm adding rod ends to try and eliminate the twisting of the strut rod. After only a few hundred miles, my jam nuts were loose.

I just don't understand any of these problems with the Poly ends smart struts. "ZERO" problems in 100,000+ miles of use. I even just count the number of rotations I put on the Smart Strut rod when I crank the trailing arms out to drop the half shafts out to change the U-joints. Then rotate them back the # of rotations to get my correct camber and it's good to go.

Where in a Vette smart strut differential mount to the trailing arm are you getting twisting motion?
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by 427V8
I've been running teflon rod ends for about 4 years now. Still tight. It's not a DD tho...

I also run seals on them now.

What did you do to make seals for them?
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 01:06 PM
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Originally Posted by gkull
Where in a Vette smart strut differential mount to the trailing arm are you getting twisting motion?
Since the control moves in an arc it causes the strut rod to have to rotate slightly or the bushings have to flex.

Last edited by Fevre; Apr 1, 2005 at 10:46 AM.
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Old Mar 31, 2005 | 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
If you don't have a lathe, get a threaded rod and chuck it in a drill, mount the drill in a bench vise. Then put a nut on the threaded rod, throw on a couple of washers that you intend to use, and another nut and tighten it down. Then start the drill and with a flapper disc in a grinder take down the outer diameter of the washers, that way you can make properly fitting washers that won't bind the rod end.
Or you can slide the washers on a rod and just lightly press them against a bench grinder. They will spin around on the bolt against the grinder wheel but will also get ground down. The benefit is that they get ground down evenly as they spin.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Fevre
Since the control moves in an arc it causes the strut rod to have to rotate slightly or the bushings to flex.

I got under my car to refresh my memory of how exactly the Smart strut is attached. The wheel should not have any fore and aft movement. The wheel should only go up and down. The Smart Strut end bolt is parrallel to the ground. How can it rotate? The wheel spindle assembly is ridged to the trailing arm
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by gkull
I got under my car to refresh my memory of how exactly the Smart strut is attached. The wheel should not have any fore and aft movement. The wheel should only go up and down. The Smart Strut end bolt is parrallel to the ground. How can it rotate? The wheel spindle assembly is ridged to the trailing arm
The control arm rotates at one point so it has to move in an arc, it may not be visible to the naked eye but it happens, think of how a spoke of a wheel rotates around a fixed point, if take a normal bike tire and rotate it just 1" it has to moving in arc, now think about the movement of our control arms, they rotate just like a tire spoke although not a full 360 degress, more like 10 or 20. I bet if you take a level and stick in on the control arm you will see it get out of level, now think about how the strut is connect to the trailing arm, when the trailing arm moves in the slight arc the strut rod will need to rotate or the bushing needs to compress.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 12:06 PM
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The Drag-Vette kit has heim joints. I installed this kit on my car a couple weeks ago, so far I love it.
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