When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I'm replacing my poly ends with heim joints on the Smart Struts. The heim joints are narrower than the poly ends. Will washers be ok to take up the extra space? I plan on shimming them to remove any slop.
If you don't have a lathe, get a threaded rod and chuck it in a drill, mount the drill in a bench vise. Then put a nut on the threaded rod, throw on a couple of washers that you intend to use, and another nut and tighten it down. Then start the drill and with a flapper disc in a grinder take down the outer diameter of the washers, that way you can make properly fitting washers that won't bind the rod end.
The heim ends will not allow the bushing to deform so it won't give unwanted responses, however without proper seals they wear out rather quickly, dirt is death to a rod end, poly bushings will not deform near as much as rubber so for a nice street car they are fine. IMO rod ends only are beneficial if you have attributed all the shortcomings of the stock suspension and made sure the mounting points are sturdy, just adding rod ends won't do a thing but negatively affect your bank account.
I'm adding rod ends to try and eliminate the twisting of the strut rod. After only a few hundred miles, my jam nuts were loose.
I just don't understand any of these problems with the Poly ends smart struts. "ZERO" problems in 100,000+ miles of use. I even just count the number of rotations I put on the Smart Strut rod when I crank the trailing arms out to drop the half shafts out to change the U-joints. Then rotate them back the # of rotations to get my correct camber and it's good to go.
Where in a Vette smart strut differential mount to the trailing arm are you getting twisting motion?
If you don't have a lathe, get a threaded rod and chuck it in a drill, mount the drill in a bench vise. Then put a nut on the threaded rod, throw on a couple of washers that you intend to use, and another nut and tighten it down. Then start the drill and with a flapper disc in a grinder take down the outer diameter of the washers, that way you can make properly fitting washers that won't bind the rod end.
Or you can slide the washers on a rod and just lightly press them against a bench grinder. They will spin around on the bolt against the grinder wheel but will also get ground down. The benefit is that they get ground down evenly as they spin.
Since the control moves in an arc it causes the strut rod to have to rotate slightly or the bushings to flex.
I got under my car to refresh my memory of how exactly the Smart strut is attached. The wheel should not have any fore and aft movement. The wheel should only go up and down. The Smart Strut end bolt is parrallel to the ground. How can it rotate? The wheel spindle assembly is ridged to the trailing arm
I got under my car to refresh my memory of how exactly the Smart strut is attached. The wheel should not have any fore and aft movement. The wheel should only go up and down. The Smart Strut end bolt is parrallel to the ground. How can it rotate? The wheel spindle assembly is ridged to the trailing arm
The control arm rotates at one point so it has to move in an arc, it may not be visible to the naked eye but it happens, think of how a spoke of a wheel rotates around a fixed point, if take a normal bike tire and rotate it just 1" it has to moving in arc, now think about the movement of our control arms, they rotate just like a tire spoke although not a full 360 degress, more like 10 or 20. I bet if you take a level and stick in on the control arm you will see it get out of level, now think about how the strut is connect to the trailing arm, when the trailing arm moves in the slight arc the strut rod will need to rotate or the bushing needs to compress.