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Suspension Extension Bolt Installation

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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 09:29 AM
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Default Suspension Extension Bolt Installation

I plan to tackle lowering my rear suspension over the weekend by use of extension bolts. Any suggestions or problems I might run into I need to be prepared for? It looks like all I have to do is simply set the suspension on jack stands to take the tension off the bolts, remove and replace. Am I correct?
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 10:08 AM
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From: I can explain it to you, but I can't comprehend it for ya.
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Use a C-clamp to attach a small blockof wood near the end of the spring. Place your jack right beside the block of wood on the spring (this will prevent the jack from sliding on the spring). Then take pressure off the spring with the jack and swap in the longer bolt.

I'm runnin longer bolts in mine but really haven't lowered it any yet.

Last edited by Dwaynes69BB; Apr 1, 2005 at 10:21 AM.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 11:17 AM
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C-Clamps and a block of wood? I'd have never thought of that. Thanks for the suggestion.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 12:14 PM
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If you have a rear sway bar you have to disconnect it to get the bolts out.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 01:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Nygdup
I plan to tackle lowering my rear suspension over the weekend by use of extension bolts. Any suggestions or problems I might run into I need to be prepared for? It looks like all I have to do is simply set the suspension on jack stands to take the tension off the bolts, remove and replace. Am I correct?
All of this information is available in a GM Shop Manual, Haynes Manual, Chilton Manual, etc. Any or all of these are a must investment if you are going to do any work yourself.
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 04:22 PM
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Originally Posted by glen242
All of this information is available in a GM Shop Manual, Haynes Manual, Chilton Manual, etc. Any or all of these are a must investment if you are going to do any work yourself.

He's right you know, thats where I got the hint about the block of wood and the c-clamp
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Old Apr 1, 2005 | 04:36 PM
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I normally place the car's frame on the jack stands. That essentailly takes almost all the stress off the spring. It then requires only a light jacking of the spring to get the bolt and nut off. The downside to this is that another jack may be needed under the trailing arm to get the the bolt back in. I have a TRW spring and the angle of the bolt from the trailing arm to the spring was too great without jacking up the TA.

Last edited by mandm1200; Apr 1, 2005 at 05:58 PM.
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Old Apr 2, 2005 | 12:25 PM
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Tackled this project last night and it worked like a charm. Only real problem I had is that I didnt have 2 wrenches of the right size, but the channel-locks worked in the end.
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