Installing (lowered) coil springs?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,255
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From: Manalapan FL
Installing (lowered) coil springs?
I purchased a set of cut-off coil springs from a forum member and installed one today. Spring is hitting the forward lip of the upper spring pocket. Bottom coil is situated correctly in the control-arm pocket and the upper looks good, too.
I recall reading here in the past that the spring should be installed with the cut-off portion UP. Upon returning home and reviewing my e-mails, seller indicated the cut-off portion should be installed DOWN. I have the cut coil installed UP.
If I do have this ***** upside down, can I remove it by unbolting the lower a-arm bolts and lowering with a floor jack? I really don't want to hammer on my new ball-joints. The spring is almost 4" shorter than stock and has "0" compression with the lower a-arm in the down position.
Also, how do you line up the spring? Using the upper spring pocket as a reference point or the drain-hole in the lower a-arm (that's what I used initially)?
Thanks in advance,
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
I recall reading here in the past that the spring should be installed with the cut-off portion UP. Upon returning home and reviewing my e-mails, seller indicated the cut-off portion should be installed DOWN. I have the cut coil installed UP.
If I do have this ***** upside down, can I remove it by unbolting the lower a-arm bolts and lowering with a floor jack? I really don't want to hammer on my new ball-joints. The spring is almost 4" shorter than stock and has "0" compression with the lower a-arm in the down position.
Also, how do you line up the spring? Using the upper spring pocket as a reference point or the drain-hole in the lower a-arm (that's what I used initially)?
Thanks in advance,
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
Senior Member since 1492
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
I can tell you what I've learned on the forum and the manuals when I did mine. It worked for me.
The springs should be cut from the bottom where the opening between the coils is greater. The cut end then is on the bottom. The most important installation tip is to install the top of the spring properly into the upper socket. Bottom alignment doesn't really matter.
Ihaven't tried this myself, but one of the easiest methods I've read to remove only the spring. Loosen the lower ball joint from the spindle and then lower the control arm, leaving the upper control arm to hold the spidle in place while you remove the spring. You'll probably need to loosen the lower CA bolts so the arm can swing down.
The springs should be cut from the bottom where the opening between the coils is greater. The cut end then is on the bottom. The most important installation tip is to install the top of the spring properly into the upper socket. Bottom alignment doesn't really matter.
Ihaven't tried this myself, but one of the easiest methods I've read to remove only the spring. Loosen the lower ball joint from the spindle and then lower the control arm, leaving the upper control arm to hold the spidle in place while you remove the spring. You'll probably need to loosen the lower CA bolts so the arm can swing down.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,286
Likes: 4
From: Guam
Originally Posted by Jughead
I can tell you what I've learned on the forum and the manuals when I did mine. It worked for me.
The springs should be cut from the bottom where the opening between the coils is greater. The cut end then is on the bottom. The most important installation tip is to install the top of the spring properly into the upper socket. Bottom alignment doesn't really matter.
Ihaven't tried this myself, but one of the easiest methods I've read to remove only the spring. Loosen the lower ball joint from the spindle and then lower the control arm, leaving the upper control arm to hold the spidle in place while you remove the spring. You'll probably need to loosen the lower CA bolts so the arm can swing down.
The springs should be cut from the bottom where the opening between the coils is greater. The cut end then is on the bottom. The most important installation tip is to install the top of the spring properly into the upper socket. Bottom alignment doesn't really matter.
Ihaven't tried this myself, but one of the easiest methods I've read to remove only the spring. Loosen the lower ball joint from the spindle and then lower the control arm, leaving the upper control arm to hold the spidle in place while you remove the spring. You'll probably need to loosen the lower CA bolts so the arm can swing down.
That's the way to do it properly......
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 19,610
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From: Forked River NJ
I take them apart by unbolting the sides of the lower joint then taking the nut off the top of the lower joint. You have to move the upper control arm with the spindle up and over the stud of the lower joint but it cames apart easy and you don't have to seperate the ball joint. I have done this a few times while trying different springs.
Racer
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 400
Likes: 1
From: California
so let me get this straight, you have to remove the lower ball joint or at least seperate it so you can get the spring out? cant you use a spring compressor and just compress it instead of have to disassemle anything, or is there no way around it?
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Manalapan FL
Originally Posted by EVIL_GRIM
so let me get this straight, you have to remove the lower ball joint or at least seperate it so you can get the spring out? cant you use a spring compressor and just compress it instead of have to disassemle anything, or is there no way around it?
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
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From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
I don't think you'll have to hammer the lower ball joint off the spindle with a pickle fork/BFH - you just installed it and the car's weight hasn't been on it yet... loosen the castle nut, load the lower A-arm with a car jack (place the jack next to the ball joint and compress the spring approximately 1/2") it will pop off the spindle if you hit it with a brass pin/small hammer.
The end of the spring that has been cut should be placed in the bottom spring pocket - it will make weired noises when the cut is in the upper pocket... rubber between the spring and the frame is another good idea to keep it quiet......
The end of the spring that has been cut should be placed in the bottom spring pocket - it will make weired noises when the cut is in the upper pocket... rubber between the spring and the frame is another good idea to keep it quiet......
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Verdad Gallardo
Senior Member since 1492
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
Cali-68 had a post a while back where-in he used a ball joint separator which he said was very useful. I've since bought one from Har Fr but haven't tried it out. Looks to simplify things. Maybe he can post one of his great pics. 
He used it when he was installing/removing his coil-overs. Said he had the start to finish down to about 1 hr per side.
He used it when he was installing/removing his coil-overs. Said he had the start to finish down to about 1 hr per side.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,286
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From: Guam
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
I don't think you'll have to hammer the lower ball joint off the spindle with a pickle fork/BFH - you just installed it and the car's weight hasn't been on it yet... loosen the castle nut, load the lower A-arm with a car jack (place the jack next to the ball joint and compress the spring approximately 1/2") it will pop off the spindle if you hit it with a brass pin/small hammer.
The end of the spring that has been cut should be placed in the bottom spring pocket - it will make weired noises when the cut is in the upper pocket... rubber between the spring and the frame is another good idea to keep it quiet......
The end of the spring that has been cut should be placed in the bottom spring pocket - it will make weired noises when the cut is in the upper pocket... rubber between the spring and the frame is another good idea to keep it quiet......
It should nearly fall out......If you have to, just tap the sides of the spindle where the ball joint goes thru with a ball peen hammer. Be sure to use the round side that looks like a ball.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2002
Posts: 2,717
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From: Sulphur LA
St. Jude Donor '05-'06,'11,'13-'14,'16,'18,'19,'24, '25
I have a neighbor that removed his springs from his truck by removing the lower control arm bolts and lowering the control arm with a jack but leaving it connected to the spindle. He beat on the lower ball joint and could not get to release. He called me and asked my advice and told me what he was gona do we thought about it for a minute and I could not think of any thing it would hurt so he went for it latter that day he called me back and told me it worked like a dream. I have not tried it that way but I think it would be a lot easier and this way will not damage the ball joint or the ball joint boot.
Neal
Neal
Race Director
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From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
if you use the pickle fork, you will destroy the rubber boot..best way to do this is to put a jack under the a frame, leave an 1/8" space....loosen the castle nut, get a good size hammer and whack the side of the spindle...the ball joint will break free. Now you can remove the the assembly without any damage to the ball joint or the boot
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
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From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
forgot to mention, remove the shock first...another thing, you might want to grind the bottom of the cut coil, so there is a flat surface, might make a better fit in the perch.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by GDaina
if you use the pickle fork, you will destroy the rubber boot..best way to do this is to put a jack under the a frame, leave an 1/8" space....loosen the castle nut, get a good size hammer and whack the side of the spindle...the ball joint will break free. Now you can remove the the assembly without any damage to the ball joint or the boot
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
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From: Manalapan FL
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
The end of the spring that has been cut should be placed in the bottom spring pocket - it will make weired noises when the cut is in the upper pocket... rubber between the spring and the frame is another good idea to keep it quiet......
Did I listen/pay attention?
Nooooo.....
Regardless, the car sits at a nice height, just as promised.
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
Tech Contributor
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 15,173
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From: Connecticut, USA
Originally Posted by SanDiegoPaul
Yep that's right. When you smack the spindle, you effectively squish the round hold that the ball joint is in for a second, popping it loose.
Use a big ball peen on one side of the joint and hit the opposite. There are cast bosses there for that. A puller works too without wrecking the boot.Gary
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 5,269
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From: Orlando Florida
St. Jude Donor '05
Originally Posted by 74FLCONV
You're the one who sold me these springs! You're the one who told me to install cut side down.
Did I listen/pay attention?
Nooooo.....
Regardless, the car sits at a nice height, just as promised.
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
Did I listen/pay attention?
Nooooo.....
Regardless, the car sits at a nice height, just as promised.
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
I even left the heater hose on the bottom coil (noise reduction)
The flat spot is also ground on that coil (as Gdaina mentioned above)
I hope that there's no typo in one of my emails - I did say "cut in lower pocket" - did I ??
anyway, glad you like the height - post photos when you're done and post how you like the ride.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 3,255
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From: Manalapan FL
Originally Posted by RedBad1979
I hope that there's no typo in one of my emails - I did say "cut in lower pocket" - did I ??
Thanks for the good deal.
D. Ocean
Miami, FLA
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
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From: I can walk to MA
To get the ball joints off, I use a small 2arm puller.
Loosen the nut a few turns, hook the puller on the spindle and
the screw against the end of the ball joint stud ... done in minutes
with no damage. The press than Jughead mentioned is even
better - but I don't have one.
Loosen the nut a few turns, hook the puller on the spindle and
the screw against the end of the ball joint stud ... done in minutes
with no damage. The press than Jughead mentioned is even
better - but I don't have one.
