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Started gathering all the parts to build a custom set of headers. Still need a donor set to cut up for spare tubing bends, but ebay is full of them and that shouldn't take to long. I decided to go the cheap route and buy a set of used headers off the forum. Since they are BB headers, the bends would be close. GM Racing also offers these nice 1/2" lasor cut flanges for $15. each. The pictures show the amount of bending or relocating that will be necessary to match the ports. The outside port will need to be sliced and rewelded, the inside will just need to be bent.
LS1 ports are 1 3/4" and the Headers are 1 7/8's. I will have out a way to reduce the tube at the flange. Is there tubing shrinker? Can I just split the bottom of the pipe and push it into the smaller hole? Advise needed.
I built my own headers from Mandrel bends. you way looks much easier...
I would enlarge the flange enough so you can slip the pipe inside the hole then weld on the head side and grind flat. then braze the other side. Makes for a very strong forgiving connection.
Also that how headers by Ed does it and he knows his stuff.
Started gathering all the parts to build a custom set of headers. Still need a donor set to cut up for spare tubing bends, but ebay is full of them and that shouldn't take to long. I decided to go the cheap route and buy a set of used headers off the forum. Since they are BB headers, the bends would be close. GM Racing also offers these nice 1/2" lasor cut flanges for $15. each. The pictures show the amount of bending or relocating that will be necessary to match the ports. The outside port will need to be sliced and rewelded, the inside will just need to be bent.
LS1 ports are 1 3/4" and the Headers are 1 7/8's. I will have out a way to reduce the tube at the flange. Is there tubing shrinker? Can I just split the bottom of the pipe and push it into the smaller hole? Advise needed.
Bud, It looks like your going to beat me to this conversion as well!!!
Dan www.vetteworksonline.com
While you're at it, make me a set too. 1 7/8" is pretty big, no? 427V8's way would seem to work, but I think that I would want a smaller tube size first, then step out to the big tube. I think that JohnB made his own stepped headers for his LS1 Monte SS. You might check out his site.
While you're at it, make me a set too. 1 7/8" is pretty big, no? 427V8's way would seem to work, but I think that I would want a smaller tube size first, then step out to the big tube. I think that JohnB made his own stepped headers for his LS1 Monte SS. You might check out his site.
Most of the aftermarket stuff for the LS1/2 is 1 7/8". I don't think it will hurt the torque, but it will breath.
From: Manchester, Dead Center in the Middle of TN 25 miles to Jack Daniels,10 miles to Geo Dickle, and .8 mile from the Liquor Store at I-24 Exit 114
St. Jude Donor '05
Budman, I have never tried to do steel, but I have shrunk large diameter copper tubing (2 inch)with a spinning steel cone.
The steel cone creates friction and heats the metal tube as it spins. This allows the heated tubing to follow the descending diameter of the cone. In fact I have actually spun a copper pipe end closed using this method. jim
Budman, I have never tried to do steel, but I have shrunk large diameter copper tubing (2 inch)with a spinning steel cone.
The steel cone creates friction and heats the metal tube as it spins. This allows the heated tubing to follow the descending diameter of the cone. In fact I have actually spun a copper pipe end closed using this method. jim
Sounds easy with copper, but I bet steel has a much highier bend rate. Pretty cool though.
I am more interested in where the exhaust flange is in relation to the crank centerline. Or to put it another way, how close or the LS1 exhaust ports to the BB ports in relation to the frame?
I am more interested in where the exhaust flange is in relation to the crank centerline. Or to put it another way, how close or the LS1 exhaust ports to the BB ports in relation to the frame?
Since the motor is set in there like a small block, who knows. Vettedan has already mocked up the general area and says the driver side is fine, but the pass. side needs some work at the tranny. Maybe he will post a pic.
Since the motor is set in there like a small block, who knows. Vettedan has already mocked up the general area and says the driver side is fine, but the pass. side needs some work at the tranny. Maybe he will post a pic.