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75 rear wheel bearings ?

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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 05:01 PM
  #1  
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Default 75 rear wheel bearings ?

I need to replace my rear wheel bearings on my 75 and I was looking for input on whether or not I should pay to have it done (215 a side ) or do it myself and I was also looking for a good exploded view drawling of the t-arm assembly to help my little project on its way( If I decide to knock it out)Id much rather bust my knuckles than my bank acount... thanks for your help in advance
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 05:11 PM
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I had mine done by Bairs for $150 per side. The worst part is getting the parking springs back on. I finally put a notch in an old screwdriver. You could just buy the installation tool. Sorry, no drawing but it isn't that complex. Good luck.
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 11:13 PM
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Originally Posted by jdmick
I had mine done by Bairs for $150 per side. The worst part is getting the parking springs back on. I finally put a notch in an old screwdriver. You could just buy the installation tool. Sorry, no drawing but it isn't that complex. Good luck.
Bair's has done 3 of 4 of my C3's rear bearings. Do it right, do it ONCE
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Old Apr 4, 2005 | 11:30 PM
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Lots of threads on this lately.
Basically, you can probably buy the tools and parts you'll
need for the same - maybe less than paying to have them done.
But, now you run the risk of doing them wrong and losing in the long run.
If you are mechanically apt, then I say read up on the procedures,
look over the diagrams and go for it. If you have a hydraulic
press (or can use one), you are half way there.

Check corvettefaq.com for procedures and diagrams. Pretty sure they have something there.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 02:57 AM
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Van Steel has step-by-step instructions on how to remove the bearing housings. I've also heard nothing but good things of Van Steel's work, although I've never had first hand experience. For the same cost I paid a vette specialty shop, Van Steel offers that plus painting and some other goodies. Wish I had the time to ship them across country, but I had to get the car up and running in 4 days
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 06:00 AM
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Two words
Van Steel

or does that count as one word, I don't know.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 07:11 AM
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Have a Pro do them .
Save yourself Headaches . Send the bearing assembly out and have em done.
Don't aske me How I know this....
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 07:57 AM
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I did mine myself but if I had it to do over I would have Van Steel do it. I met him at a show and was very impressed with his work and prices relative to what they do. Of course it is cheaper to do it yourself, but for what you get Van Steel is your guy.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 08:12 AM
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I am doing mine right now. I have done a bunch and I have the tools. If you dont have the right stuff and know exactly what you are doing, you would be way better off having them done like everyone here has said. You have that warranty which you do not have when doing them yourself. Rebuilds have become quite affordable now in comparison to when I bought the tools years ago.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 02:19 PM
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I am doing most of the work myself. I removed the trailing arm and doing all of the disassembly, inspection, refinsihing and part procurement. Once I have it all detailed, I plan to install the trailing arm bushings and then have someone local, setup and install the bearings and spindle. My spindle is broken at the cotter pin, so I am not to worried about doing further damage to it by "knocking" it out. I plan to get new "KA" spindles from Tom's differential (of course he chooses this week to relocate his shop from CA to ID.)

Hardest part so far was just drilling out the rotor rivets and that was relatively easy.

If I didn't need new spindles and was closer to FL., I would have sent them to Van Steel for rebuilding.

Mike
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 03:03 PM
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Well, VanSteel offers free return shipping, so the ship factor is less.
All in all, I think your plan works OK.
If you are not replacing the bearings yourself, don't even mess
with the spindles. That's what you're paying to have done.

I drilled a coupe rotors off myself last night. The stock rivets
were a piece of cake, but Bubba put a rotor on long ago. He used
5/16 hardened bolts with the heads ground down and the nuts
welded to the bolt. Lucky for me, he didn't have enough heat
to get the weld stuck to the spindle ... close, though.

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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 04:53 PM
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Default $215???!? *$150!?!?!?!?!?* per side?!?!? WOW!!!

Mine ran almost $900!!!! And another shop was over $1300!!!

Not only DO it, but gimme a minute and I'll mail ya my whole CAR to have IT done!!

One thing for certain - get t done. Nov '02? I guess? I was doing about 80 next to the magnet wall when the inner bearing on my more and more mutant '75 seized and cut through the spindle liek it was made of butter - without so much as a squeal.

It's interesting having your rear wheel and assembly pass you on the highway....

....looked like the space shuttle coming in on three wheels and suspension...

I was so worried I had somehow damaged my TD 12 bolt rear I spent nearly $4K having installed I spent the better part of another $4k having the whole rear suspension rebuilt. Really, there was very little damage to anything - idiocy is it's own reward....

Under $500 (or even $300!) for a hellish job like that is well worth it - take home from two overtime shifts? You'll be on it for a week - a good solid 50-70 hours. Of course you know you'll need the rear end re-aligned after that kind of disruption to the trailing arms, but that's just another $60.
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Old Apr 5, 2005 | 11:10 PM
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I just did mine myself!!! I already had a runout guage and a press and a bearing puller..... both sides took under 4 hours (another 1/2 hour to align it) without pulling the trailing arms.... all new bearings and seals were $120.00 for both sides.








sometimes it's good being a ex-mechanic!!!
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 01:24 AM
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Default I take 4 hours to change my MIND!!!

I took a whole 4 day weekend just to put in the dual mount rear spring dealy! (I won't demean myslef by mentioning how terrified I was the whole time as the whole car wobbled on my iffy sloped driveway on my might-make-it jack stands....) ((Did that come out loud? I was jsut thinking to myself....echo.....ecchhhhoooo.... ))
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 12:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jdmick
The worst part is getting the parking springs back on. I finally put a notch in an old screwdriver. You could just buy the installation tool.
Compress the springs and tie them with dental floss. Once the retainer is in place torch the floss with a lighter. This was not my idea, I read it somewhere and it worked great.
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Old Apr 6, 2005 | 10:41 PM
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I just had Vansteel do mine. It would have been cheap, $199/side, if my spindles would have been ok. Then I bought new spindles...then I had them heat treated...then I bought offset trailing arms...then I just asked them to give me the trailing arm rebuild package. Ah well, at least I am doing it right, heh.
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Old Apr 7, 2005 | 08:20 PM
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I learned a new trick from an old Dog
After I got the spindles out, I polished the spindle area where the inner wheel bearing rides to make it easier to re-install the inner bearings and that made set-up a snap!!!
If you guy's decide to tackle your own rear wheel bearings let me know.... I can give you some help.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 06:10 AM
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If you decide to do it yourself get a good manual and check out seller bid-quest on Ebay. He has some good looking tools at a very reasonable price.
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by jcswm
I learned a new trick from an old Dog
After I got the spindles out, I polished the spindle area where the inner wheel bearing rides to make it easier to re-install the inner bearings and that made set-up a snap!!!
If you guy's decide to tackle your own rear wheel bearings let me know.... I can give you some help.
There has been a lot of discussion about this. I still choose to set them up as they came- press fit. If you are going to maintain them on a regular basis maybe I'd consider the slip fit but GM stopped that early in the '63 production run - must have had a good reason?

Gary
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Old Apr 8, 2005 | 07:30 PM
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mine's NOT "slip fit" ..... it's still pretty snug, but a press is not required.
this "trick" was tought to me by a mechanic that used to roadrace corvettes in the early 70's....... so i trust his judgement.
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