Interior redo part 2 w/pics
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Racer
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Interior redo part 2 w/pics
I'm continuing the redo of the interior of my 71 vert...you can see the bezel cutting/new 1 DIN stereo in the thread below on 'stereo bezels for a '71'...
I've already shared my 'fun' experience with re-covering my seats...so, this thread is about sound deadening and heat shielding
First...here's some pics of the sound deadening...I used FATMAT...it was very easy to use...butt, to get the most benefit it was work to make sure it was all rolled down tight...
This shows the passenger side done...
This shows the pass door done...this made an incredible difference...the sound of the door closing is like a modern car...a Cadillac ar Lincoln or Lexus...I never thought it would make that much difference
This is apic of the front half of the driver's side sound deadener...
This is a pic of the driver side with the heat sheild(Frost King) on top of the sound deadener (Fatmat)...it is a little harder to work with because the aluminum rips easily...however that is easy to contain by using a foil tape which you can't even see in the pic
here's the bare rear (I love the sound of that!LOL!)...notice the original 'chalk' markings from the factory(I guess)...I thought that was neat...
and, here's the sound deadener on the rear...
I still got a long way to go...
I've already shared my 'fun' experience with re-covering my seats...so, this thread is about sound deadening and heat shielding
First...here's some pics of the sound deadening...I used FATMAT...it was very easy to use...butt, to get the most benefit it was work to make sure it was all rolled down tight...
This shows the passenger side done...
This shows the pass door done...this made an incredible difference...the sound of the door closing is like a modern car...a Cadillac ar Lincoln or Lexus...I never thought it would make that much difference
This is apic of the front half of the driver's side sound deadener...
This is a pic of the driver side with the heat sheild(Frost King) on top of the sound deadener (Fatmat)...it is a little harder to work with because the aluminum rips easily...however that is easy to contain by using a foil tape which you can't even see in the pic
here's the bare rear (I love the sound of that!LOL!)...notice the original 'chalk' markings from the factory(I guess)...I thought that was neat...
and, here's the sound deadener on the rear...
I still got a long way to go...
#2
Drifting
Nice... I will be doing that as well... what have you spend on the materials so far?
you are using the heat shield first on the floor then sound pad on top, right? I wonder how your carpet will fit after that?
you are using the heat shield first on the floor then sound pad on top, right? I wonder how your carpet will fit after that?
#3
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No...the sound deadener goes on first, it has to be in 'perfect' contact with the metal and fiberglass panels...the vibration of those panels is where you get your 'noise'...the sound deadener stops the vibration...then, the heat shield goes on top...each are about an 1/16th of an inch thick...I've hand fit the carpet, and it seems to fit fine...so far! LOL!
The Fatmat sound deadener cost about $100.00 off of ebay...that was for a 100 sq. ft. ...it has only taken about 60sq.ft.
The heat shield, Frost King, can be found at Home Depot...less than $50 will do the whole car...Frost King is actually an HVAC duct insulator...it is foam and the aliminum reflector sheet...
The Fatmat sound deadener cost about $100.00 off of ebay...that was for a 100 sq. ft. ...it has only taken about 60sq.ft.
The heat shield, Frost King, can be found at Home Depot...less than $50 will do the whole car...Frost King is actually an HVAC duct insulator...it is foam and the aliminum reflector sheet...
Last edited by fjetb; 04-09-2005 at 10:38 PM.
#4
Pro
Nice Job. I have removed the carpet in my 76 and hope to do what you are doing. Where did you get the Fatmat and heat shield? Does the Fatmat have an adhesive to stick to the door panel? Keep the pictures coming..
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76 project: I got the Fatmat on ebay...100sq ft for about $98.00, and it included the roller, etc. Also, search the internet...there are other places you can get it...it is like Dynomat...another sound deadener. Yes, the Fatmat has an adhesive on the back...it is very tacky and sticks well...I found it very easy to use...and, as I said, if what it did for the sound of the door, closing, is any indication, it will make a real difference to the whole car.
The heat shield is called Frost King. You can get it at Home Depot. It is cheap. Comes in rolls. It is one layer of 'aluminum' reflectant attached to a foam layer. The foam layer is very tacky and sticks easily. I used foil tape to seal the pieces together and make a solid 'shield'..
Both items you just cut with a razor to fit and then place down...they adhere well, and they are easy to conform to shapes and curves...just make sure you get the Fatmat down tight on the metal or fiberglass panels so it will deaden as much sound as possible.
The heat shield is called Frost King. You can get it at Home Depot. It is cheap. Comes in rolls. It is one layer of 'aluminum' reflectant attached to a foam layer. The foam layer is very tacky and sticks easily. I used foil tape to seal the pieces together and make a solid 'shield'..
Both items you just cut with a razor to fit and then place down...they adhere well, and they are easy to conform to shapes and curves...just make sure you get the Fatmat down tight on the metal or fiberglass panels so it will deaden as much sound as possible.
#7
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Originally Posted by EDDIEJ82
Looking good Don't you just love crawling around in the footwells, I swear they had Umpa Lumpas build these cars
At 6-4 myself--- you almost brought a tear to my ear this morning
#11
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CG...
The stiffeners on the back wall are factory (this is a 71)...
The black thing in the middle of the back wall is the bracket for the storage area light...
Thanks Bob77
The stiffeners on the back wall are factory (this is a 71)...
The black thing in the middle of the back wall is the bracket for the storage area light...
Thanks Bob77
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In the middle...
Gents,
I'm in the middle of the exact same project. I'm ready for the carpet install. How do I secure the carpet in the rear section? It doesn't attach any where except the back under the rear window on my 80. The carpet has a plastic 'connector' that attaches to a metal bar and snaps down into place. The wheel wells don't anything to hold the carpet down. What can I do? Use spray adhesive? I want it to fit as designed but it seems odd that is no method of attachment on the sides. As an example, the previous carpet was always falling off the wheel wells...
Any help would be appreciated as I attack it this weekend.
Thanks,
Chris
I'm in the middle of the exact same project. I'm ready for the carpet install. How do I secure the carpet in the rear section? It doesn't attach any where except the back under the rear window on my 80. The carpet has a plastic 'connector' that attaches to a metal bar and snaps down into place. The wheel wells don't anything to hold the carpet down. What can I do? Use spray adhesive? I want it to fit as designed but it seems odd that is no method of attachment on the sides. As an example, the previous carpet was always falling off the wheel wells...
Any help would be appreciated as I attack it this weekend.
Thanks,
Chris
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'Spose it depends on how much heat you want to stop... Dynamat Xtreme isn't actually marketed as a thermal barrier, where their TacMat, XtremeLiner, and DynaLiner ARE marketed as thermal (and acousical) barriers.
#16
Originally Posted by fjetb
No...the sound deadener goes on first, it has to be in 'perfect' contact with the metal and fiberglass panels...the vibration of those panels is where you get your 'noise'...the sound deadener stops the vibration...then, the heat shield goes on top...each are about an 1/6th of an inch thick...I've hand fit the carpet, and it seems to fit fine...so far! LOL!
The Fatmat sound deadener cost about $100.00 off of ebay...that was for a 100 sq. ft. ...it has only taken about 60sq.ft.
The heat shield, Frost King, can be found at Home Depot...less than $50 will do the whole car...Frost King is actually an HVAC duct insulator...it is foam and the aliminum reflector sheet...
The Fatmat sound deadener cost about $100.00 off of ebay...that was for a 100 sq. ft. ...it has only taken about 60sq.ft.
The heat shield, Frost King, can be found at Home Depot...less than $50 will do the whole car...Frost King is actually an HVAC duct insulator...it is foam and the aliminum reflector sheet...
#17
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Do you really need a Thermal barrier if you use the sound deadener with the aluminum backing?
I thought the same thing once I got all the stuff here and realized both had a 'metal' back to them...I hope it's not 'overkill'...I think I would not have done both if the 'heat shield' hadn't have been both 'cheap' and positively supported on this forum by people who had done it. After I am done and driving it again, I will let you know if it made a difference...I live in SW Georgia...but, bought the car in Annapolis, and drove it home....I know how hot the floors get !
I thought the same thing once I got all the stuff here and realized both had a 'metal' back to them...I hope it's not 'overkill'...I think I would not have done both if the 'heat shield' hadn't have been both 'cheap' and positively supported on this forum by people who had done it. After I am done and driving it again, I will let you know if it made a difference...I live in SW Georgia...but, bought the car in Annapolis, and drove it home....I know how hot the floors get !
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Originally Posted by sjr1971
There was a reason why these cars where made without : GLOVEBOX ; VANITY MIRRORS ; CUPHOLDERS ; etal. REV Inhale REV Inhale etc.
Besides...every C3 built has a glovebox. It just happens to be in an unconventional location...behind the seat. Some even went the extra distance and had map pockets in addition to the boxes! "Missing" cup holder were not AT ALL uncommon (name a 68 ANYTHING that has them...) in the era these cars were designed. Same thing with vanity mirrors...
ALL of them had thermal barriers installed at the factory, too.
We're just improving on the 40 year old technology...kinda like putting in a Tremec and MSD...
#19
How did you insulate the doors?
I can't quite tell from the picture. Did you just attach it to the inside surface of the the door?
#20
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Yes..carrj...one side of the FATMAT has adhesive...just cut to fit and apply and roller it out...it sticks fine...makes a heck of a difference on the door when it is closed...not 'metal' sounds...just a solid 'THUNK'...I'm hoping it does the same for road noise...