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Well the most expen$ive 1980 Corvette rear suspension rebuild continues, albeit slowly... I have discovered that one of my strut rods is bent and have decided to replace them both. I am considering building my own with rod ends and sleeves. My question is, isn't there a better length to use to improve the rear geometry? I remember reading about this somewhere but, of course, can't remember where now.
The '80 has about as good an overall geometry as can be had, for general sporty car use, but for drag only, yes you maybe want to put in a lower inner mount, but not for handling....
VBP makes a set of lower rods, check them out, also Van Steel, either one knows what's about....
OH, i'ts not the length but the rod ends that matter.....
actually the roll center is pretty high in the rear, I lowered the inner mounts to drop it a bit, this eliminates (heopefully) the jacking effect, early C4s had this effect also, something was changed on the later models (I suspect the inner mounts)
How are your rods bent? Are the ends bent or is the rod u-shaped? If the ends are bent, they are supposed to be. If It's u-shaped, you have other problems as well as bad strut rods. Check your t-arm bushings.
How are your rods bent? Are the ends bent or is the rod u-shaped? If the ends are bent, they are supposed to be. If It's u-shaped, you have other problems as well as bad strut rods. Check your t-arm bushings.
Caught this thread today because I was starting to work on my strut rods and noticed this morning that there is a mild bend in the main shaft of my original rods. Not U shaped but definitely a mild curve. I take it the main shaft of the strut rod is supposed to be true straight? If so, good thing you guys re-built my trailing arms!
One of the ends is bent and has a slight twist. I did notice that they have a slight bend, one of them has considerably more. Furthermore, you can see where someone was hitting it with a hammer trying to straghten it. It may have been bent when a u-joint broke. There is evidence that one of the half-shafts came out, one has a new yoke. Of course, they couldn't do that right either. That half shaft is 3/8" shorter than the other.
Someones obviously been mixing and matching parts. If I remember correct the 80-82 automatic half shafts are about 3/8" shorter. I know because I bought a used one, sandblasted and painted it and then noticed the difference. I suppose you could use these parts (I wouldn't) but I would check your toe and camber.
Ususally the reason for bending the control rods is to get back some degree of toe and/or camber adjustment, the problem for the toe may be a worn front trailing arm bushing and in the case of the camber a worn stub axle or clutch pack, bringing the stub inboard and that will result in a control rod that is "too long" so they bend them to make it shorter.
Ususally the reason for bending the control rods is to get back some degree of toe and/or camber adjustment, the problem for the toe may be a worn front trailing arm bushing and in the case of the camber a worn stub axle or clutch pack, bringing the stub inboard and that will result in a control rod that is "too long" so they bend them to make it shorter.
That's what I thought. So, I whipped out the torch, heated the rods in the area of the bend to may the steel easier to work with and beat them back straight. When heated up red hot it doesen't take much beating and then you cool them in water to put the steel molecules into that position more permanently again. Straight as an arrow now.
I think the half shaft ended up too short when they replaced the yoke. The strut rod, well who knows, it is bent though. It appears someone was trying to straighten it. I've decided that this rebuild isn't going to be expensive enough so I'm going to swap in a C4 rear suspension while retaining the 1980 center section. I will have the rebuilt trailing arm / hub assemblies for sale soon.