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ignition timing results....need some advice

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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 10:46 AM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by SpyderD
My concern is that if you ARE using the manifold vacuum can to get your timing to 16 or 18 at idle then what happens when you do a hard throttle launch?


spyerd , We are talking about initial timing of 16* with the can disconnected....and when it gets connected the initial timing goes up to like 30-32*

Comp, final CR is 9.25: 1 and I use sunoco 93 octane
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 10:52 AM
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i have 3 trucks i need to tune for 87 oct. ,,,,all are 76/78 smog motor's
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 12:32 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
spyerd , We are talking about initial timing of 16* with the can disconnected....and when it gets connected the initial timing goes up to like 30-32*

Comp, final CR is 9.25: 1 and I use sunoco 93 octane
I don't know about this, why have an initial of 30? Why would you need an initial that high unless you have a huge cam or oversized carb? But anyways the negative aspects still apply - you tune your carb (idle speed and mix) based on a timing of 30 and then when you launch and go to WOT you timing immediately retards to 16 and all the timing and mix settings go out the window. Seems like the result would be a bog or hesitation in acceleration. I'm just offering it up for debate as I am not sure exactly what would happen.
Anyways what everyone said is correct - You set your timing without the vacuum can advance hooked up and of most importance is your total timing without the can.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 03:22 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by SpyderD
I don't know about this, why have an initial of 30? ... But anyways the negative aspects still apply - you tune your carb (idle speed and mix) based on a timing of 30 and then when you launch and go to WOT you timing immediately retards to 16 and all the timing and mix settings go out the window...

.....i bet there is vacuum pulling in at the same time the RPMs are coming up and by the time WOT happens and the vacuum disappears you have past the 2500rpm point and the centrifugal advance is all in....so you have never gone back to 16*
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 04:30 PM
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Originally Posted by SpyderD
what happens when you do a hard throttle launch? Your vacuum goes down as you open the throttle suddenly and the timing is reduced probably at a greater rate then the centrifigul timing advance as you increase RPM. You are effectevely retarding your timing, if but just for a few seconds
Yes it does and this is a good thing.

But your forgetting about your mech advance which is still advancing. You don't want that much advance (mech and vacum) on a WOT launch because it would cause detonation.

Myself running 94 octane I have to pull 2 degrees out in the winter and 4 degrees out in the summer to keep from detonating because of my high compression but a regular motor will do the same thing with too much advance in the timing.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
.....i bet there is vacuum pulling in at the same time the RPMs are coming up and by the time WOT happens and the vacuum disappears you have past the 2500rpm point and the centrifugal advance is all in....so you have never gone back to 16*
I drove around with a vacuum guage in the car for awhile. Anytime you open the throttle for a second you will see the vacuum goes down a bit, then vacuum increases as you keep on steady cruise. Now when you launch from idle your vacuum drops to zero and will stay at zero as long as you are at WOT. So at idle to WOT you will retard suddenly from 30 to 16 but then increase back up to 36 as the centrifigul advance engages with RPM increase. So at idle to any RPM you are slightly retarding your timing as you open the throttle. That would be OK because you have your timing curve already set for max. performance, it would impact people that use the manifold vacuum as a "crutch" to get initial timing from, say, 6 degrees to 16. BUT - it may impact if launching FROM IDLE if you tuned your idle speed and mix and pump shot, etc, for that 30 degree timing at idle (and like me when you increase the timing you probably have to decrease the idle speed, lean out the mixture, etc, which is all a good thing except when it then drastically changes at launch) and it drops to 16 suddenly and your car then says "hey, I need more gas, I need more pump shot, I'm fuel starved...".

Again, this is all theoretical.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by EDDIEJ82
Yes it does and this is a good thing.

But your forgetting about your mech advance which is still advancing. You don't want that much advance (mech and vacum) on a WOT launch because it would cause detonation.

Myself running 94 octane I have to pull 2 degrees out in the winter and 4 degrees out in the summer to keep from detonating because of my high compression but a regular motor will do the same thing with too much advance in the timing.
I understand that, that happens weather it is manifold or ported vacuum. The difference is that at ported vacuum at WOT your timing is always increasing exponentially from idle but with manifold you have high timing then a sudden drop then and increase again. In those seconds before centrifigul takes over you are loosing power (again theoretically). I have 10.7 compression. I have a neat MSD gizmo on my dash that allows me to advance or retard timing 7 1/2 degrees in each direction. I'm always playing with it. Comes in real handy on hot late-winter days before the gas stations switch over to the summer gas blend. I just dial it back a few degrees. If I am at the strip and use race gas I dial it up a few degrees.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by SpyderD
- it may impact if launching FROM IDLE if you tuned your idle speed and mix and pump shot, etc, for that 30 degree timing at idle (and like me when you increase the timing you probably have to decrease the idle speed, lean out the mixture, etc, which is all a good thing except when it then drastically changes at launch) and it drops to 16 suddenly and your car then says "hey, I need more gas, I need more pump shot, I'm fuel starved...".

Again, this is all theoretical.
That's when it's important to choose the correct accelerator pump cam and diameter pump nozzles to cover the sudden lean spot.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 06:09 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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interesting discussion and way over my head but fun to think about....i picked up a set of Moroso springs and weights to play around with tonight and this weekend....i will post the results....it also interestingly showed on the back of the package the advance curve of the weights and springs and all three springs had a different final timing degree so the springs effected not only curve but how far out the weights spring open....
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 06:54 PM
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Originally Posted by SpyderD
I understand that, that happens weather it is manifold or ported vacuum. The difference is that at ported vacuum at WOT your timing is always increasing exponentially from idle but with manifold you have high timing then a sudden drop then and increase again. In those seconds before centrifigul takes over you are loosing power (again theoretically). I have 10.7 compression. I have a neat MSD gizmo on my dash that allows me to advance or retard timing 7 1/2 degrees in each direction. I'm always playing with it. Comes in real handy on hot late-winter days before the gas stations switch over to the summer gas blend. I just dial it back a few degrees. If I am at the strip and use race gas I dial it up a few degrees.

It probably would loose a slight bit of power, but in 1st gear the rpms climb so fast that it would only be for 1-1 1/2 seconds. Nothing to get worked up about on a street car. A drag car it would be different...time counts.

Thats why I run a MSD pro billet full mech dist. I sacafice a little gas mileage on the street, but I have a more stable, predictable, and adjustable advance curve. With a radical cam and good gas it's even better to lock out the dist for no variation.

I controll my retard thru the dash on my Jacobs box. Beats popping the hood.

Your gonna have people the swear ported is better, and your gonna have people that swear manifold is better but it all boils down to how much advance timing rate your motor can handle before it starts to rattle.

Last edited by EDDIEJ82; Apr 15, 2005 at 07:12 PM.
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 07:37 PM
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EddieJ - actually I tend to agree with your opinion. It's probably insignificant for a street driven car. I was just offering it up for debate. Waiting for some of the carb/timing experts like Lars to comment....
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Old Apr 15, 2005 | 11:22 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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ok heres the result of a couple of hours of playing around....i never changed the distributor setting so....i think my base timing would be my lowest reading of 15*.... i think my max centrifugal advance would be my highest reading with vac can disconnected so that would be 25* (40*-15*)....so i have put in the Moroso silver (med) springs since they gave me 19* initial and 36* at 2500-3000, i will stretch my vacuum advance to 16*(right now its at about 12-13*) and will play around with ported vs.direct vacuum....


[IMG][/IMG]
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Old Apr 16, 2005 | 01:35 PM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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cruised for several hours today....it ran well especailly after 1800rpm it was really powerfull....i wonder what implications tuning for performance has on gas mileage???
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Old Apr 16, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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Looks good bob, seems like all you had to do was find the "right" springs. Good stuff.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 01:08 AM
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Very interesting info in this thread. Have you figured out which setup you are happiest with?
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
ok heres the result of a couple of hours of playing around....i never changed the distributor setting so....i think my base timing would be my lowest reading of 15*.... i think my max centrifugal advance would be my highest reading with vac can disconnected so that would be 25* (40*-15*)....so i have put in the Moroso silver (med) springs since they gave me 19* initial and 36* at 2500-3000, i will stretch my vacuum advance to 16*(right now its at about 12-13*) and will play around with ported vs.direct vacuum....


[IMG][/IMG]
so where are the Mr. Gasket number's
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
ok did some more vacuum testing and this is my conclusion....the vacuum tube going from the PORTED carb outlet to the vacuum canister must have been just slightly too large of a diameter and i was losing vacuum at the port connection....hooked up a smaller diameter tube and got at least 6" of vacuum when i hit the accelerator....i'm running 15" of vacuum from the ported side if i hooked the vacuum can to that wouldn't I have the full pull right from the start just like the 9" reading at 1200rpm of 39*? wheres my 17yr old when i need some one yelling out RPM #s...need to talk to that boy about priorities....

edit: Ok just back from the test drive WOW WOW WOW....it was incredible how much of a difference that extra timing makes....this is what i discovered with just me testing it so its at a idle of about 1100 rpm...the vacuum cannister pulls at 5"/extra7*, 7" /14*

my springs are "silver,crv 600, medium tension for full advance at 2800rpm"

so i now have 16* base at 800 rpm, centrifugal advance of at least 12* and vacuum advance of at least 14* and maybe even 20* if it gets a 9" pull.... so 16 +12+14= 42* or 16+12+20=48*....need to see what my highest vacuum reading is at that ported connection when i'm driving around tomorrow. any thoughts???
what kind of dist do you have. My HEI is giving me 20* od mechanical advance. Can I reduce this?
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 08:50 AM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by L82-JWS
what kind of dist do you have. My HEI is giving me 20* od mechanical advance. Can I reduce this?
mine is a GM HEI with a proform build kit.
yes you can but i don't know the mechanics of it....i'm not sure 20* is a problem though the trick is to get all the advance in at the lower RPM range of 2500-3000. so if you had 16 initial+ 20 centrifugal advance +16 vacuum advance i think you would be close to the goal everyone is striving for.. you may need to play with the springs to get it as you like.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 09:01 AM
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
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Originally Posted by slvrbullit
Very interesting info in this thread. Have you figured out which setup you are happiest with?

yes i thnk i will go back to one med spring and one light spring....when i found the combination i chickened out from using it because i didn't like the way the light spring looked but as i contemplate the situation i realize it met all of my criteria that i was looking for......the initial timing was in the 16-18 range and the advance was 36* in the 2800 rpm range....

I like my current setting now also and i realize with all of my fine tuning/tweaking i keep moving the "ball down field"....so eventually i will score!
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 09:34 AM
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Originally Posted by bobs77vet
mine is a GM HEI with a proform build kit.
yes you can but i don't know the mechanics of it....i'm not sure 20* is a problem though the trick is to get all the advance in at the lower RPM range of 2500-3000. so if you had 16 initial+ 20 centrifugal advance +16 vacuum advance i think you would be close to the goal everyone is striving for.. you may need to play with the springs to get it as you like.
right...thats basically what i got.....total advance (no vac) at about 2800-3000 rpm, getting 36*......thats why I am now chasing the carb issues..
Lars had sugeested a NAPA vac can, which I am using, and it works just as he said. 16*, using manifold vac. I think if I get carb squared away, I will be running fine.
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