I`ve had some engine work done on my 75 L-48 -cam, carb, dart heads headers 2.5" exhaust. My mechanic strongly suggested a 2500 stall torque converter. What benefits can I look forward to. Will it be any different taking off from a normal start? Is it worth the $ [about 400 installed]. I`m using the B&M holeshot 2400, is this agood converter for me? I won`t be racing, but I do want to be able to light up the tires.

 

what rear?

 

Thats the same converter I am going to install. I am pushing about 400 to 425 hp. It will really wake you car up compared to stock. Stop lights and stop signs will never be the same for you!

It will increase you launch rpm about 600 to 1000 rpm deppending on hp and weight of the car. You will feel a little more tourqee off the line. IT will help you utilize teh engine componets that you have installed also. Your power range has increased with the new mods that you have installed so your stall speed should increase also. Thats why your mechanic suggested it.

 

[QUOTE=painterman52] My mechanic strongly suggested a 2500 stall torque converter. What benefits can I look forward to.


this is what i'm using with my 700r4, it is really quite fun when you step down hard....i will say that the shifts come very fast and the stall speed and shift points are very close under medium acceleration.

 

You can look foward to a better idle rpm. It doesn't need to be as high with a looser converter.

At just 2500 stall you won't be able to notice the "looseness" of the converter to much. Over 3000 you can really start to feel it. The gears won't bang quite as hard when accelerating lightly or normally, but when you step on it they will bang harder.

If you have a larger than stock cam installed it is well worth the money.

You will be able to light em up, if the stall is chosen correctly for your cam.

 

Hum, I just ordered a 2000 rpm Holeshot. I'm running a comp 260H cam,reworked TH400, 2.5" pipes, 308's. I think if I changed the 308 to 355 I would have gone for the 2400 but the 2000 should still be higher then the stock convertor was.
Gary

 

When I put the stroker in my car, I was disappointed that I had no hole shots still. And I had rebuilt the trans too, using hardened sprag and B&M clutch packs ... but used a stock convertor.

I didn't have a hundred miles on the car before yanking the trans back out and installing a 2500-2800 range stall convertor.

What a difference! My ride now has the ability to make hole shots and I can burn as much rubber as I want if I so choose.

It's wierd driving a car with 3:08 gears around town though, using a stall convertor. Took a bit of getting used to but I'll never go back!

 

installing a 2500-2800 range stall convertor.

What a difference! My ride now has the ability to make hole shots and I can burn as much rubber as I want if I so choose.

It's wierd driving a car with 3:08 gears around town though, using a stall convertor. Took a bit of getting used to but I'll never go back![/QUOTE]

Paul,
How is the car for normal driving and highway driving? With 308's your cruise RPM must be about 2700 rpm in the range of your stall does it run hot?
What did you have to get used to?

Thanks,
Gary

 

on my 700r4 the stall speed is aboove the shift point so its nice and soft shifting unitl you are really pushing it so the shift points are stretched out....so it does feel different.... bob

 

My trans guy told me not to worry about the thing getting hotter than normal. And I don't know if it does or not anyway !!
My cooler lines run along the frame, and the headers do too so I'd imagine that in traffic that trans gets plenty hot anyway. And if convertor slippage is adding heat on the freeway, or at 45MPH who cares?

Normal driving, you can certainly feel it slip on takeoff. Esp with the high gears in the rear end that mine came with. It definitely will shift softer at WOT with a stall convertor.

On the other hand, you've got the ability to bring the RPM up as high as you want before takeoff. If I bring it up to 3K or 3500 before launch, I have to get back out of it in 100 feet to control wheelspin

On the freeway I don't have any adverse affect at all. I only drive when and where there's no traffic and my speeds are rarely below 75MPH. I'm sure that at 50MPH or so, the convertor is still slipping with my 3:08 rear end. But at that speed there's enough airflow to cool things down. My only worry is in traffic, and using headers any automatic has the same prob I have in that department regardless of the stall of the convertor.

At 30-40MPH, a WOT kick will surprise the hell outta ya. By the time the trans has kicked down, it seems the convertor is already wound up lemme tell ya it's fun!

 

I normally drive a manual car so I don't know how stall converters work. Can someone explain it to me please?

Sorry I don't mean to hijack the thread I've just wondered about them for a while.

 

I`ve got 3.70 rear gears. Edlebrock performer cam & manifold with the 600 cfm edlebrock carb. With the new heads & converter it should be very fun to drive.

 

wow the search function is working great!!!!!!!!!
in this thread is an explanation
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/show....php?t=1056522

 

stock is 2110 on a 72. seems we discussed this before

 

Thanks for the link.

 

Hey Matt, yup we sure have I have found that talking to 10 different guys about the correct stall for this combo I got 20 different selections! That's why I stayed with the 2000 stall at this point. I'm sure not the stall expert here B&M even recommended the 2000 stall if I recall for the 308's. I met a gear head at a meeting today and he said to use one over 2800 ! I really like my 4 speeds cars much better!
Gary

 

The Q is, does B&M measure stall the same as GM?
And why would you not get the free specs from GM? 2110 is OK, but mine would really LEAP w/2500 i suppose. Did you ever power/brake yours and see the stall? mine matched the specs

 

Stall speed is stall speed. Things that make a difference are cam, gear, hp, exhaust, carb, and weight of the vehicle. Tire size also will make a difference.

 

The previous owner put a ~2800 rpm converter on my car, and I hate it. It removes the solid feel between your right foot and the car's motion. The converter just makes everything feel sloppy until 3000+ rpm.

I also have a 700R4 with 3.08 diff, and that means that the converter is always slipping at reasonable speeds. I usually leave the transmission in 3rd for this reason.

This may sound odd, but having the converter allow so much slip generates embarassing sounds in normal driving. Other people probably think that I have a manual transmission that I don't know how to use.

 

[QUOTE=aharte]The previous owner put a ~2800 rpm converter on my car, and I hate it.
I also have a 700R4 with 3.08 diff, and that means that the converter is always slipping at reasonable speeds. QUOTE]


I can see this happening....thats what i was saying before on my 700r4,3.08 with 2500 stall, on light to med throttle the car is shifting almost before the shift points.... now i can definitely tell you that a 1400 stall speed will defintetly make you miserable in the other direction... from what i have learned doing this i think the stall speeds in the range of 2000-2500 make sense to me for every day driving and would be a good place to start the process of gathering information from.......