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Fiberglass mixture ratio

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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:18 PM
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Default Fiberglass mixture ratio

I'm gonna take carl a's advise and try fiberglass to fiberglass repair on the lower spare tire holder.
I picked up the repair kit, but unfortunately it was the last one on the shelf and the instructions were missing. Does anyone know the ratio of hardener to resin mix? On the hardner it says to refer to the resin label, but it doesn't say.

Thanks
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:30 PM
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More than likely you bought a quart of resin and it comes with a little tube of hardner. If you mix up a quarter of the resin use a quarter of the hardner. The more you use the less working time you have. It will eventually kick off. If you mess up and it is not setting up as fast as you like mix up a hot batch and recoat it. I've seen my father work this stuff all my life. He built fiberglass boats for the US Coast Guard. It's not rocket science but it sure does stink. I repaired all of the stress cracks on my 78 over ten years ago and it is still holding up well as you can see by my pictures.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:33 PM
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If you just a small amount of resin in a cup its just a couple of drops. Sometimes you have to just mess with it to get the mixture you want. The more drops the quicker it will kick on you or harden and the less amount of time you have to work with it.
Fewer drops slows the kick time down but the longer you have to wait for it to set. Make sure you always get the glass totally soaked with your mixture and the air bubbles out.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:36 PM
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I repaired my front bumper last month. I bought glass mat, resin, hardener at Home Depot. Those directions called for 14 drops hardener per ounce of resin.

Brett
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:41 PM
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That's great, thanks djgrelli, James, Brettmc.

I'm off to try it.

Wish me luck.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:42 PM
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Default Your mileage may vary...

When I'm doing repairs (like yours), I use 4-5 drops per ounce. That gives me plenty of time to lay up the multiple layers of cloth (I use the really fine stuff for most repairs). This way it kicks off a little slower so that I can use a sur-form tool (sp? - looks like a cheese grater) to knock off the bulk of the excess 'glass before it hardens all the way (usually about 2 hours). Pretty hard to mess up. Ambient temprature also makes a difference. Hot = fast, cold = slower. Use Acetone to clean up, and I like those disposable medical gloves while I do 'glass work. Get 'em messy, toss 'em, put on a new pair. I go through 3-5 pairs a session! Go for it, this seems scarier than it really is and you'll get the hang of it right away.

By the way, I use 3M resin and hardner. I checked my directions and it calls for 6-10 drops per ounce, quite a range.
Hans

Last edited by Wrencher; Apr 11, 2005 at 02:44 PM.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:46 PM
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Great thread.

Don't want to hijack it, but I have an additional question. I'm new to this fiberglass work... I have an area in a front wheel well on my (where the bumper support goes through a hole in the front of the well) that I need to rebuild. Basically, there's a chunk of fiberglass missing that I need to build in. What, if anything to I use as a "backing" to apply the resin/glass mixture? Since I'm filling in an open hole... do I need some sort of backing to keep it in place and if so, what would I use?
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 02:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Chumpzilla
Great thread.

Don't want to hijack it, but I have an additional question. I'm new to this fiberglass work... I have an area in a front wheel well on my (where the bumper support goes through a hole in the front of the well) that I need to rebuild. Basically, there's a chunk of fiberglass missing that I need to build in. What, if anything to I use as a "backing" to apply the resin/glass mixture? Since I'm filling in an open hole... do I need some sort of backing to keep it in place and if so, what would I use?
Just about anything can be used for backing. Duct tape sounds like
it will work fine for your application. After it hardens, just peel the tape away.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 03:07 PM
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Duct tape... wouldn't have thought of that... heh.

My only concern is, will the resin bond to it making removal afterwards a nightmare? I'd rather not have to sand off the backing material, whatever it is...
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 03:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Chumpzilla
Great thread.

Don't want to hijack it, but I have an additional question. I'm new to this fiberglass work... I have an area in a front wheel well on my (where the bumper support goes through a hole in the front of the well) that I need to rebuild. Basically, there's a chunk of fiberglass missing that I need to build in. What, if anything to I use as a "backing" to apply the resin/glass mixture? Since I'm filling in an open hole... do I need some sort of backing to keep it in place and if so, what would I use?
I used to repair fiberglass boats when I was younger and we repaired a lot of holes.

We use to use wax paper. Tape it in place and then coat it with a layer of resin and then apply the glass. The initial layer of resin will hold the glass to the paper while you work at it and the wax on the paper will act as a natural release agent for the paper when the glass hardens.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 03:13 PM
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Wax paper was exactly what I was thinking of using.

It's not a big area so regardless of what I use, it's not that big of a deal. Was simply curious... Thanks for the responses.

Hijack over.
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Old Apr 11, 2005 | 03:46 PM
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I used wax paper too. Except I made a cardboard template of the chunk of glass that was missing from the lower front bumper (down where it meets the valence. I wrapped the cardboard in wax paper and taped it in place. Then I taped the template to the bumper and threw some glass on it. All good suggestion above, BUT...wear one of those yard masks while you cut the mat and lay it. When I was cutting mine there were little fibers floating everywhere. You'll be surprised how easy it is. Good luck!!

Brett
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