I was hopeful that we would finish the winter projects and have the car ready to drive by this weekend. Since I am replacing the master cylinder and brake lines to the distribution block, I thought this was a perfect opportunity to replace the rag joint (I've had the kit for several years).

After removing the bolts on the flange, we are able to slide both halves (top and bottom) up the column to the top of the splines. We are about a quarter inch from popping the lower half off the steering box shaft. However, it does not look as though it will come off without forcing it. It has been suggested that we disconnect the pitman arm and loosen the steering box from the frame in order to make room for the part to drop off, which I am sure that it would. I thought the rag joint was supposed to be an easy repair.

Can anyone comment on this? Thanks.


Mark

 

might be easier just to drop the steering box...remove the bolts and slide the box and have easy access to the coupler.

 

Since my interior was out...I went the hard way and pulled the steering column back those few inches. (Mistake) More of a pain than pulling the steer box.
Don't make the same mistake I did and pry upward on the column shaft to remove the rag either. It's an engergy absorbing shaft with a plastic coupler inside. Broke mine! ARRGGG...
Loosten the box...I think it's easier.
Eddie

 

Jim Shea recommends loosening the steering column.
The column is also moved to adjust (center) the rag joint.
If you don't have it already, go get Jim's write-up on this
at corvettefaq.com.

PS - got a new rag joint assembly with my 75 - 10 years ago.
I am finally installing it after taking the body off.
Easy job ? Not if your vette is in one piece.

 

I am finding that most of these "While I'm At It" projects end up taking more time to accomplish than the original task. Jeez...

Mark

 

We tried to design the entire steering system so that it would be extremely difficult to lose your steering completely. Certainly being able to steer your car could be a life or death situation. We always tried to make the assembly of the parts foolproof to a point where parts could not just disengage without a lot of noise, rattles, looseness, etc before steering was lost completely.

That is why we designed the flex coupling installation so that even if someone did not install one of the critical bolts or the two nuts and lockwashers, the parts could not just slip apart. Just as you are finding.

I'm sorry that it made the servicing of these components a more complex operation, but we really were trying to protect the you and the public from the Bubbas that could be lurking in the assembly plants, back yards, as well as the local shops.

Jim

 

Thanks for looking for me, a signed copy of my book 'Who's looking out for you.' is on its way.

 

Jim,

I had no idea I would hear from such an authority on the subject when I posted this question.

I checked the corvettefaq.com post as suggested and have printed a copy of your article which I plan to bring to the shop tonite. You did shed light on the importance of the horn grounding strap we saw last evening as we poked around. Had no idea what it was.

Thanks


Mark

 

When I rebuilt my rag joint, I pulled the steering column. That was the worst part of the job, but not all that bad.

Jim, I have to say thank you for the way you guys designed that joint. The "rag" portion on my '77 had completely failed, but the pins kept the steering system mostly functional. The car was driven that way for far longer than it should have been - even a repair shop pulled the column, rebuilt it, reinstalled it, and never noticed how trashed the joint was. Your write-up on corvettefaq.com was invaluable in the repair.

 

OK, I know Jim Shea is gonna come in here and kick my butt. I've read a number of rag joint posts the last few days and felt compelled to show you how I fixed the problem. Before the flames start, it's been in for almost 3 years with no problems whatsoever and no play in the steering at all.Sorry for the big pics but I wanted to give you details. Jim, commence the kicking.

 

IMO - that looks like a fairly safe design.
The only thing you would lose is the vibration isolation of the joint.
Looks good from here. So ... how much ?
Not that I will buy one ... just finished this:
http://NHvette.com/ftp/in/rag_joint_rebuilt.jpg

 

They run about $65. I called Flaming River and the people there were first rate and very helpful.

 

I pulled the steering box and rebuilt/reinstalled the joint. Was fairly easy (and I'm just a shade-tree mechanic).

D. Ocean
Miami, FLA

 

Here is the main reason why we didn't use a cardon joint to connect the steering gear to the steering column on the Corvette. The Corvette body is mounted to the frame with rubber mounts. Therefore, driving down a rough road there can be body motion relative to the frame. The body can also settle relative to the frame with time.

The cardon joint has no compliance in rotation but it also has no compliance in the axial plane as well. The steering gear is hard mounted to the frame. The steering column is hard mounted to the body. So any motion of the body and frame gets transmitted directly from the gear through the cardon joint to the lower bearing in the steering column.

The flexible coupling has compliance both in rotation and axially. Even 1/8 inch can be sufficient to accommodate the body to frame motion and prevent damage to the lower column bearing.

 

Jim, 68-72's used aluminum rather than rubber....assuming the aluminum are still in place, don't think that it would make any difference what is used as a coupler. 73 and up, yes, I agree with your statement.

 

The steering box does not have to be completely removed. Leave one bolt in place and slightly roll the box until you have the clearance you need.

 

Last night we attempted to remove the rag joint for a second time.

We removed the two bolts holding the steering column to the dash and it dropped down as expected. This did not allow the column to be pulled back.

We worked on the couplings for some time and managed to get the top coupling up high enough on the spline to removed the upper bracket from the rubber donut. Unfortunately, we were unable to get the rubber donut and the lower coupling off the steering box. We are about a quarter inch from having it off. It just won't budge. I am sure that if we could pull the column back a couple inches, we'd have the joint out.

Can anyone shed light on what else needs to be done to pull the steering column back enough to make room to get the joint out?

Also, as the bolts started coming out of the joint, we began comparing them to the replacements in the kit I had purchased. None of the bolts in the kit remotely resemble anything coming off the car. Since there are no assembly instructions with the new kit, none of us (me and two mechanics) were quite sure how to reassemble the darn thing with the supplied parts. I have a call in to the vendor (no one available until 11 to answer questions) for instructions (none supplied with kit).

Since I have several days before we attempt to wrap this up again, does anyone make a replacement kit that duplicates the original bolt setup???


Jezzzzz.



Mark

 

Geeeez man, why do it the hard way? Bolt up the column and remove the bolts from the steering box and be done with it.

 

Personally, I think it's easier to pull the column.

Burgandy, there are two nuts at the firewall, they hold the steering column in, and hold the firewall seal in place.

If you have an auto parts store nearby with a "Help!" section, they sell the right rebuild kit...and I think it had instructions.

 

I had the relatively expensive - but correct assembly.
They run about $65 now-adays. The only thing you re-use is
the steering column flange.
See my picture in my last post - above.