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New guy again. When I get my new trailing arm assembly back from Van Steel will there be instructions with them on how to replace the shims in the t-arms?? Also how do you replace the shims? Everything will be new except the engine and trans and that comes next year.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Del Meddings
New guy again. When I get my new trailing arm assembly back from Van Steel will there be instructions with them on how to replace the shims in the t-arms?? Also how do you replace the shims? Everything will be new except the engine and trans and that comes next year.
if you are talking about the shims at the end that bolts to the frame that is one of the alignment settings....so just measure the distance there is now and repeat it then drive to the alignement shop....you probably will need to order the alignment shim kit, not sure if they come with them, get stainless steel ones.
the shims have a slot cut into the end and they slip over the trailing arm mounting bolt....and are held in place by tension and cotter pins.
No there will not be instructions on how to shim the t-arm. Did you keep the shims together when you took your old arms out? If you did you can put the same ones back in. If you bushings weren't to worn then it's most likely that they will all go back in. If someone has added shims b/c of the worn bushings than you may have too use less shims. If you want to replace your shims, put your old ones back in the same way they came out and take the news one to the alignment shop and have them install the new shims. This way you are sure that an alginment was done.
If you need help when you get them back, give us a call and we'll help you out.
There are two types of shims, slotted on one end as mentioned above, and non slotted...the trailing arm bolt goes through the shim's hole....little harder to put in than the slotted ones, but not that difficult.
The non-slotted shims were used from 63 to I believe 68. Could be 67. The shims are also different in length. Using non-slotted shims can run you a lot extra for an alignment.
my original 69 has th eold junk 2 round hole shims, the 72 had slotted shims. I think 70 was the first year for the slotted shims. Look at the frame if there is no hole for the cotter pin then it had the 2 hole jobs. I drilled the frame for the pin on the 69. It was a PITA too with the bodyon and the area was weld hardened.
Gary
My 77 had slotted shims. I measured them with a caliper to get the approximate thickness for each end when I took them out. Since they were rusted together I tossed them & replaced with the stainless one of the same thickness for each end