Instrument Lamps (Fuse) ?

See the bad pic here . It is the fuse space on the right that has the 1 receptor:
http://www.photohost.org/gallery/sho...cat=500&page=1
Last edited by 79vetter; Apr 20, 2005 at 07:55 PM.





Did you test for power with the HL **** pulled out at least on parking lamp?
Yep we are talking about the upper left hand portion of the fuse panel- however it is not the upper most pair of copper contacts- It is actually the pair (or lack of) right below that top pair. My pic was taken sideways - with the pair on the left being top most --(that is not used if I am not mistaken)...
So yours officially has 2 coppers for the instrument panel fuse?
I wish that I knew what color wires are supposed to be connected to the back of that fuse holder. I didn't see one dangling off when I pulled the fuse panel to take the pic...
On my wiring diagram (which you need an electrical engineering degree to read and I don't have) I see yellow, tan, and LT green coming off the back of the HL switch, one of those will be a wire carrying varied voltage from the dimmer. Over near the dash light section of the diagram, I see LT green but not the other two. Hope that helps.
If you don't get power coming from that one socket on the right when the HL switch is on, try running a jumper wire from the IGN labeled socket with the key on to the right side socket for the instrument lights. IF it works, you can always use an inline fuse
like thishttp://www.radioshack.com/product.as...ct_id=270-1213
until you find out what happened to that other wire. Use male spade connectors on each end and put a 10 amp fuse in the holder. I think that left side missing wire is the power side coming from the HL switch.
The dash lights will come on with the ignition wired like that.
Last edited by isosceles; Apr 20, 2005 at 09:55 PM.
Power comes from the head light switch to the instrument fuse on the Dark green. The gray wires on the other end of the fuse goes to instrument lights.
Check the Dark green coming from the headlight switch for voltage when the lights are on. The voltage you see will depend on where your dimmer switch is set. WIth your volt meter between the Dark Green and ground, you should see the voltage change when you turn the dimmer switch.
Hard to tell if it is the dark green or the grays missing from your fuse panel. I would think it is the Dark Green, because you didn't see any voltage when you tested the remaining post. You should have saw some voltage there regardless of the dimmer position, unless "it" is bad.
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When I pierce the green wire from the H/L connector I don't get any voltage on the meter at all. This is with the h/l switch pulled out and the dimmer all the way on.
ESU
Where are you probing the dark green wire, at the fuse panel or the headlight switch or some where in between?
If your tail lights work with the headlight switch in park or on (12 V measured on brown wires on headlight switch connector) , but you don't measure any voltage when probing the dark green wire from the headlight switch connector, it can only be one of the following:
1) Dark green wire is broken somewhere between where you are probing and the headlight switch connector.
2) Bad connection between the headlight switch and the connector.
3) Bad dimmer in your new headlight switch.
The tail lights are feed from the same 12V source through the headlight switch as the instrument lights. The only difference is the instrument light circuit is routed through the light dimmer before it comes out of the headlight switch on the dark green wire. So if you can measure voltage on the brown wires but not the green wire at the headlight switch connector when the headlight switch is on, that would point to a bad dimmer in your headlight switch.
Mike
Power was not making it from the green wire to the fuse block because somewhere in my testing I blew the coil on the rheostat ( the wiring had severed).
I also found that my fuse location is now the top most pair of coppers because the green wire and the 2 gray wires are hooked to that one. Since I got the switch working correctly it now blows the 10 amp fuse whenever I try to turn the switch on.
The wiring diagram shows that one of the gray wires goes to the instrument panel lights and the second one goes to the radio. I tried to trace that wire to the radio but have yet to find it.
My friend says that I have a dead short somewhere because I am blowing the fuse now.





On my wiring diagram (which you need an electrical engineering degree to read and I don't have) I see yellow, tan, and LT green coming off the back of the HL switch, one of those will be a wire carrying varied voltage from the dimmer. Over near the dash light section of the diagram, I see LT green but not the other two. Hope that helps.
Don
In addition to the gray wires going to the instrumnet panel lights (both the gauge cluster and speedo/tach cluster) and radio light, it also goes to lights for your heater controls, transmision selector (if automatic) and to the wiper washer light.
Mike







