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Ever since I bought my car my emergency/parking brake has never worked. My inspection was due last month and when I took it in they said I needed to get my parking brake to work.(why they said that this year and not last year I have no clue) I removed all the parking brake pieces that go inside the rotor a couple years ago when I was replacing wheel studs. I know the original system is not that well of a design and I have heard alot of people on here complain about it.
So my thought was to somehow get an external e-brake from a different GM car. I could purchase this external e-brake or get one from a junkyard for cheap. What is everyone thoughts on this idea. I would have to...
1. Mounting plate
2. Find a way to route the cable
It looks fairly simple I would just have to find size to fit my rotors. This would make it alot simpler to change wheel studs and such and not have to worry about resetting up the parking brake. Thoughts please, thanks.
Ryan
Edit: I was searching around for mechanical parking brakes and found these, mechanical brake calipers
Ok, I am thinking out loud. The only difficult thing would be to fabricate a bracket. Then you would have to run one cable from the lever. Doesn't seem too technical.
Last edited by CrossedFlags77; Apr 26, 2005 at 04:29 PM.
Looks like a good idea to me. The only hard part is fabbing up the bracket. If you go that way, please document the process for the rest of us boneheads that can't figger out stuff.
Ever since I bought my car my emergency/parking brake has never worked. My inspection was due last month and when I took it in they said I needed to get my parking brake to work.(why they said that this year and not last year I have no clue) I removed all the parking brake pieces that go inside the rotor a couple years ago when I was replacing wheel studs. I know the original system is not that well of a design and I have heard alot of people on here complain about it.
So my thought was to somehow get an external e-brake from a different GM car. I could purchase this external e-brake or get one from a junkyard for cheap. What is everyone thoughts on this idea. I would have to...
1. Mounting plate
2. Find a way to route the cable
It looks fairly simple I would just have to find size to fit my rotors. This would make it alot simpler to change wheel studs and such and not have to worry about resetting up the parking brake. Thoughts please, thanks.
Ryan
Edit: I was searching around for mechanical parking brakes and found these, mechanical brake calipers
Ok, I am thinking out loud. The only difficult thing would be to fabricate a bracket. Then you would have to run one cable from the lever. Doesn't seem too technical.
Rotor thickness is the first problem with those devices...
Why not just rebuild the stock setup with stainless hw.
or add a second hydraulic caliper on each rear wheel like the baby single piston wilwoods and a master cylinder under the brake lever...
or tricker yet use a wheel cylinder with the stock shoes...
Rotor thickness is the first problem with those devices...
Why not just rebuild the stock setup with stainless hw.
or add a second hydraulic caliper on each rear wheel like the baby single piston wilwoods and a master cylinder under the brake lever...
or tricker yet use a wheel cylinder with the stock shoes...
just thinking out loud
Yea, I was looking at those calipers today that I put the link to, and the biggest rotor width they had was 1''. It looks like those are out of the question since I will need somewhere around 1.25'' width to fit on the rotors. I am going to make my way out to a junkyard on Thursday to see if there are any possible calipers that could work.
i had stainless steel hardware installed when my restoration was done in 2002, 7,000 miles later and 3 yrs and the parking brakes work fine, i think the problem with them was rust forming on parts and non use,, i use the parking brake every time i park my truck and 126,000 miles they also work very well, gotta keep moving those parts!!!
I had mentioned this awhile back but as my 75 is old enough for antique plates and no inspection, I hadn't investigated it yet. However it's still bouncing around the back of my head for possible future use.
Now up front I'll say this really won't work for an emergency brake, but should work OK as a parking brake. You would need to add a pressure valve in line w/the rear brakes. To set the parking brake, press down on the pedal and close the valve. This will keep the pressure on and the calipers clamped down on the rotor. To release, just open the valve.
You might even be able to find the appropriate remote operated solenoid valve to work with the stock brake handle by fabbing up a bracket and a switch. Only down side to this would be with long term application, the solenoid would eventually drain the battery.
FWIW. Good Luck!
edit: probably could even use the stock parking brake light switch w/no fabbing/bracket needed too. Again FWIW.
Now if they would only let me use that excuse when I get an inspection.
Does anybody know of any cars that came with a separate mechanical caliper for a parking brake?
I called a guy that makes mechanical parking brakes for Vipers and Panteras but he wants $150 and thats without a bracket designed up. Maybe I could get him to sell me one caliper cause I only need one since I only want to do this to one side.
Not sure but I think Stainless Steel Brakes makes a mechanical caliper (for e-brake).
ACECO: I have been thinking about your proposed setup also. I think you could do it with a bi-stable valve that would not require energy to "hold" pressure. The valve you describe is a "line lock" (that requires constant power). I suppose the downside would be: constant pressure on the calipers may freeze the caliper pistons if left on for an extended period and on/off operation would not work as an emergency brake.
I had mentioned this awhile back but as my 75 is old enough for antique plates and no inspection, I hadn't investigated it yet. However it's still bouncing around the back of my head for possible future use.
Now up front I'll say this really won't work for an emergency brake, but should work OK as a parking brake. You would need to add a pressure valve in line w/the rear brakes. To set the parking brake, press down on the pedal and close the valve. This will keep the pressure on and the calipers clamped down on the rotor. To release, just open the valve.
You might even be able to find the appropriate remote operated solenoid valve to work with the stock brake handle by fabbing up a bracket and a switch. Only down side to this would be with long term application, the solenoid would eventually drain the battery.
FWIW. Good Luck!
edit: probably could even use the stock parking brake light switch w/no fabbing/bracket needed too. Again FWIW.
You could use a normally closed solenoid so it would only have to be energized when the car is running.
ACECO: I have been thinking about your proposed setup also. I think you could do it with a bi-stable valve that would not require energy to "hold" pressure. The valve you describe is a "line lock" (that requires constant power). I suppose the downside would be: constant pressure on the calipers may freeze the caliper pistons if left on for an extended period and on/off operation would not work as an emergency brake.
Hummm, good point on the bi-stable valve. That would be a great improvement. I also agree that leaving the calipers engaged for long periods of time would not be a good idea. They would probably either freeze up or leak. And of course this setup wouldn't be any good as a emergency brake, but then again what I have now wouldn't either.
However for short term parking situations, this may very well be viable solution to other much more expensive alternatives. It certainly would be questionable if an inspection station would accept this solution however they might here in NJ as the only test they do is to see if the car moves in gear w/the parking brake applied. Just would have to give the inspector the heads up on how to "set it".
I may have to look further into this option in the future. However LOTS of stuff to do before this one becomes further up on the list.
You could use a normally closed solenoid so it would only have to be energized when the car is running.
That would work but I personally wouldn't use this option as if the valve/solenoid failed for whatever reason while at speed, it would result in the rear wheels locking up. That's one ride I wouldn't want to participate in.
At least a line lock valve would fail in the off position vs on. However I think BBShark's bi-stable valve might be the best solution overall.