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Adjustable strut rods

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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 09:56 PM
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Default Adjustable strut rods

I bought some adjustable strut rods. I know my rear alignment is good on the back and I do not want to do it again. I was planning on taking some measurements so I can put the new strut rods so they be the same as length as the old one coming out.

Anyone have any ideas on how to do this or has anyone done this ?
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Old Apr 25, 2005 | 11:13 PM
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I don't know why you couldn't use a level to check the angle of the tires before and after. You would need to drive the car back and forth a little to settle the suspension after making adjustments.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 12:23 AM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
I bought some adjustable strut rods. I know my rear alignment is good on the back and I do not want to do it again. I was planning on taking some measurements so I can put the new strut rods so they be the same as length as the old one coming out.

Anyone have any ideas on how to do this or has anyone done this ?
Hmmmm, well, here's an idea, never tried it though.
After you have the rear jacked up, put blocks under the tires then lower the car on your jackstands. The bulk of the weight should be on the stands, with the blocks in place to keep the tire from moving when you remove the old strut rod.
Remove the old strut rod. Adjust the new strut rod so that it fits without moving the tire. Seems like it would work.

Last edited by cchristo; Apr 26, 2005 at 12:33 AM.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 12:37 AM
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I would just measure bolt center to bolt center as accurately as you can with a tape measure. Unless you are setting it to the minute of a degree that should be perfectly adequate.

-Chris
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by LiveandLetDrive
I would just measure bolt center to bolt center as accurately as you can with a tape measure. Unless you are setting it to the minute of a degree that should be perfectly adequate.

-Chris
That is exactly what I was going to do, but since I have never done it I was concerned there would be something wrong with doing it this way, I don't care if it is not exactly the same as before, just close
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 08:48 AM
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Lay the 2 rods side by side or one atop the other. Use dowel, long bolts or even tubing of the correct diameter to put in the bolt holes. When you can get them through both holes at the same time you should have the same length even if you are using the heim type of ends.

Last edited by 1979toy; Apr 26, 2005 at 08:49 AM. Reason: To correct nasty spelling errors.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 09:10 AM
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I believe you might have to remove your spring as well to get the bolts out. I just put a new spring and shocks on mine this weekend. I also had the strut rods but couldn't get one of the shock mounts loose so I didn't get to replacing them. Later that night a friend told me about having to take out the spring to get the bolts out. I looked and I think he was right. I don't know if a cutting wheel could work or not.

Good Luck!

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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 10:21 AM
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Originally Posted by LiveandLetDrive
I would just measure bolt center to bolt center as accurately as you can with a tape measure. ...
That will get you in the ballpark, but the stock inner bolts have eccentric washers so it won't be exactly right. You will probably have to have it realigned if you want it perfect.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by 1979toy
Lay the 2 rods side by side or one atop the other. Use dowel, long bolts or even tubing of the correct diameter to put in the bolt holes. When you can get them through both holes at the same time you should have the same length even if you are using the heim type of ends.
This method won't account for the concentric adjuster that is usually replaced when installing adjustable strut rods. The factory rods are fixed length, and are adjusted by turning a cam.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 12:33 PM
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So you measure from a fixed point on the end with the cam, like the corner of the strut rod bracket itself to the center of the hole/bolt on the other end of the strut, that might work
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 03:08 PM
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Tools required: Good tape like duct tape. 3 feet of fishing line. One large nut. metal ruler or dial caliper - to measure top of tire lean in. Tape measure for static rod length

The strut rod is only going to mess with "camber"

Do a static measurement to get it's length near what the existing strut rod is.

What I do is: Hang a plum bob from the wheel fender lip - piece of fishing line with a heavy nut on the end. With your car on the ground.

I hang it so that the line barely touches the ground side of the tire bulge. Then I just measured from the line to the upper edge of the rim. "negative camber" Leave it hanging

then install your adjustable and check your measurement from the line to the top of the wheel with the car back on the ground. It will get the camber back in the ball park if it was right before. Both sides should be set the same.

I never trusted "Bubba" that told me that you want different settings to allow for road crown. This isn't rocket science!

Last edited by gkull; Apr 26, 2005 at 03:14 PM.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MotorHead
I bought some adjustable strut rods. I know my rear alignment is good on the back and I do not want to do it again.
Not trying to be a smart-@ss, honest question here, if you have the rear aligned, why would you want/need adjustable strut rods?
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 04:22 PM
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Thanks George and the rest

Originally Posted by DonBecker
Not trying to be a smart-@ss, honest question here, if you have the rear aligned, why would you want/need adjustable strut rods?
Only a few bucks more than replacement stock rods I was going to put in and alot shinier
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 04:29 PM
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Lol...if I wasn't replacing / rebuilding every part of my rear end, I would have done the same thing...

Glad that came across the right way, sometimes text sounds sarcastic
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 04:35 PM
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Be sure to Jump on those jam nuts as they sometimes loosen up.
Gary
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 05:07 PM
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Does it make sense in what i tried to tell you?

I'm a big fan of smart struts. anything to keep the camber from changing as the wheel goes up and down.
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 07:35 PM
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Yes George it does, I am going to try a combination of everything, plum lines, tape measure etc. THe reason for the new struts is I am also expecting to have to cut the old ones out, I am not sure but I don't think they have been off the shock mounts before
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 10:34 PM
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ack, sorry for my bad advice. In my case I got so sick of the cams slipping that I aligned it and then welded the cams solid in that position. Hope I never want anything other than -3/4* camber! Glad you got the advice you needed.

-Chris
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Old Apr 26, 2005 | 10:46 PM
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I just stuck an angle finder on the hub with the wheels on the ground and cranked on the rods until it was between 0 and 1 degrees.
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