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OK I am about to go crazy! I have a new master cylinder, 4 new calipers with speed bleeder. I bench bled the master cylinder per instructions. It did not come with the hoses just plugs. I put everything together and thought I had all air out. Back out no brakes. So I read archives and on suggested raising the rear end to bleed brakes so I have done that. I seem to have mostly fluid but I have small micro bubbles that come out when I press on the brakes. What am I doing wrong? I have not let the master cylinder go dry. I have gone thru 3 quarts of fluid at this rate it would be cheaper to get it done by a mechanic! Any advice?
If it goes to the floor, it is probably a masterclyinder issue.
If you can pump it up there is probably air in the MC.
If the pedal pumps up then sinks to the floor MC is prolly bad.
If peadl does not pup up prolly bad mc
If it goes to the floor, it is probably a masterclyinder issue.
If you can pump it up there is probably air in the MC.
If the pedal pumps up then sinks to the floor MC is prolly bad.
If peadl does not pup up prolly bad mc
I did buy a New master Cylinder not a refurb. I can pump it and the pedal comes back up and stays up. Shoud I unhook the brake lines and bleeed the MC while it is on the booster? Then hook up and bleed again? Also It should be staight fluid no micro bubble correct?
While I have no experience with the SpeediBleeders, I haven't read too many good things about them. Call me old, but the old tried and true two person pump & hold method works well. The Corvette brakes are well known as difficult to bleed. Some have reported bleeding 4 and 5 times to get a firm pedal.
Personally, I would start back at the MC and bleed that until you are sure there isn't any air in it. Then I would go to the right rear caliper and bleed that. Obviously, cover your fenders so you don't splash any brake fluid on them. I have heard of folks tapping their calipers with a rubber mallet to discharge any bubbles but I haven't done that. You might try letting the bleeders stay open and do a gravity bleed first. Once you do that caliper (don't forget that there are two bleeders on the rears) then go to the LR, RF, and LF.
Make sure you bled all 6 bleeders, 1 on each front and 2 pointing to the front on the rears, Also make sure the bleeders are at the top of the front calipers and not the bottom.
I did buy a New master Cylinder not a refurb. I can pump it and the pedal comes back up and stays up. Shoud I unhook the brake lines and bleeed the MC while it is on the booster? Then hook up and bleed again? Also It should be staight fluid no micro bubble correct?
Ok, you can whine...
I agree, bench bleed the MC on the car again. Make sure you use as short of hoses as possible from the outlet port to the resevour. It needs to pump out the air and suck in fluid...
I've been dealing with this problem for several days. All new calipers, rubber hoses, brake lines and master cylinder. Finally decided to open the bleeders and just let them drain for a while. After an hour I compared the 4 sides. Right front had much less fluid in the can than the others. Closed up the bleeders, topped off the fluid and tested the brakes. They were much better. I suspect the right front had air in the line. Gravity is good!!!
Make sure you bled all 6 bleeders, 1 on each front and 2 pointing to the front on the rears, Also make sure the bleeders are at the top of the front calipers and not the bottom.
That is what I have done and all bleeders are in the right spot.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by swtato
.....So I read archives and on suggested raising the rear end to bleed brakes so I have done that..... ?
you know i thought you were suppose to raise the rear also and may have even passed that advice on.....but after my annual bleeding of my brakes last week... i think it may have been to have the back as low as possible and the front of the car as high as possible. this is because the bleeder is in front of the caliper and the piston cylinder can trap air in the top....the only way i saw that would help that situation out, would be to have the front of the car up and the rear down low....so if that advice was from my post sorry...
I'm going through the same thing, unable to get a firm pedal, always feels spongy, installed new MC and still the same.
Has anybody tried power bleeding?
How long does it take by pumping?
One trick to isolate the air is to clamp off the rubber lines to all four wheels. If you have a soft pedal than you know the air is in the lines. Then 1 by 1 unclamp a wheel and bleed till hard. This way you can see what the problem is...
If you really have isues they make plugs so you can block off the MC output port so you can isolate the entire rear , or front, system.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by Airfix
I'm going through the same thing, unable to get a firm pedal, always feels spongy, installed new MC and still the same.
Has anybody tried power bleeding?
How long does it take by pumping?
it takes my son and I 45 minutes to go around the car twice and do it...why twice you say because it the superstitious behavior that always give me a good hard pedal. and we are doing like 20 pedal pushes for each bleeder. and this moves about 16 oz of fluid.
and i just bought the motive power bleeder and its still in the box, so in a couple of weeks when its nice outsice i will play with it
I had a similar problem. My problem was the proportioning valve. I disconnected the back line from the proportioning valve and used a hand suction pump to provide suction at the valve. Once liquid came out I hooked up the line and then re-bled each wheel. I then used the same process for the front wheels. It has worked ever since.
Thanks for all the reply's. I took the speed bleeders out and replaced them with the origional bleeders and did it the old fashion way. Well that did the trick and eerything seems to work now. Needless to say I think the speed bleeeders were a waste of money!