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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 05:55 PM
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Default spark plug wires

On my '71 350 I'm having one heck of a time trying to change out the wires for cylinders 2 and 4. They start out passing through the motor mount and then underneath a boomarang-shaped sheetmetal channel and then finally to the groumet. Starter motor and headers plus my big hands don't help. I'm going to try again tonight; any helpful suggestions?
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 06:05 PM
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What I did is take off the boot at the end of the plug, then place a fairly flexible metal rod as if you were pulling electrical wire. place it through the the area you are having difficulty with (eg. motor mount) and then secure the two ends together with electrical tape etc. and pull it through. Same principal as an electrician pulling electrical wire through a wall.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 06:56 PM
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That's what I was going to try tonight when I have another go at it. Driver's side went fine although small working space. I paid a lot of money for these wires not to change out all of them! I just wasn't sure whether there was some other easy way that I couldn't see. Thanks.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 07:12 PM
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from under neath the car can't you loosen the boomerang shape thing and insert the wires? my car had headers so there was more space.

Last edited by bobs77vet; Apr 27, 2005 at 07:15 PM.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 08:23 PM
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No, not on the passenger's side. That's what I tried last evening and got nowhere. Has the two wires running underneath it but I couldn't move it around in any position to slide it out. Too close between the block and the starter housing. So, I'll try the "tape to a drawstring" method this evening.

A side note to this is that the car isn't driveable now. I know I'll have it fixed before the weekend, but this is the first time for me that it's been laid up and it's a odd and uncomfortable feeling.
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 09:59 PM
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You need to remove the "boomerang thingy" which is actually a heat shield for the spark plug wires. Then feen the wires through the engine mount one at a time. The end that goes on the distributor will pass through the gap, the spark plug end won't. It is a lot easier to do with a lift as you can put the car in the air and see what youa re doing. Painful without a lift. First time I did in on the ground, took me 4 hours. Next time took me 30 minutes with a lift to change all wires.

Hope this helps. Stupid idea putting wires through an engine mount!

Pete
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Old Apr 27, 2005 | 11:55 PM
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Your point is taken. Thank you. I'm working with the way it was since I bought it, and I'll take your advice and route the passenger side #2 and #4 through the metal channel instead of the motor mount. Maybe I should go back and change the driver's side? I didn't really see a good diagram in the '71 AIM for my setup.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 07:52 AM
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Do yourself a favor and label both ends of the wires with numbers. You will be glad you did later.

There is no easy way to run them but you could pull the motor mount bolt and mount then jack one side of the motor up a bit. Might help make the job easier.

-Mark.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 08:48 AM
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If you havn't removed the "old" ones yet, tie a string to the end of one of them. pull it out, attach the string to the new one, pull it back through (you may have to "play" a little with the plug end). repeat for the other wire.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 10:10 AM
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Carl,

The drivers side wire need to go through the mounts as well as the boomerang. If the wires are the molded kind I don't think they will be long enough if you route them a different way.

Pete
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 12:31 PM
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I had to remove the "boomerang" wire chase. The channel was so full of oily dirt that fishing the wires through was not an option. On the passenger side the starter had to be removed. All-in-all it really wasn't a hard job. Just a PITA. My advise is to get the very best set of wires money can buy maybe you will never have to change them again.

Last edited by Spike-74; Apr 28, 2005 at 12:40 PM.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 04:36 PM
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Hi, I am considering changing the wires and now you have me thinking maybe this is not a good idea. I have no heat shielding on the 350 and from where I can see the wires seem to be a no brainer. Maybe I am not looking close enough.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by phclub
Hi, I am considering changing the wires and now you have me thinking maybe this is not a good idea. I have no heat shielding on the 350 and from where I can see the wires seem to be a no brainer. Maybe I am not looking close enough.
Unless you're trying to remain stock then you can always replace them with over-the-valve-cover style wires and looms.
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Old Apr 28, 2005 | 05:52 PM
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Go to Home Depot, or any other similar home building store, go to the electrical dept and get Chinese fingers...put the two plug wires into the mouth and pull it shut...no need for tape...I use these when running Cat 5 computer cable between offices and walls.
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