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broken headlight mounting frame????
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
broken headlight mounting frame????
not your typical headlight woes here...but nonethe less how do i fix it.....
Last edited by bobs77vet; May 1, 2005 at 08:14 PM.
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common problem, both mine were cracked (on both sides even), the only way to fix it is to get new supports, that stuff is pot metal and hard to weld (some say it's aluminium but I'm fairly sure it isn't and if it is it's bad quality w/ lots of contaminations)
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
ok so if take out the three bolts on each side that form the triangle what else do i hae to take off? to get the light fixture out? does the spring mechanism disconnect some how? are those two springs on a "pivot shaft" that is held in by that cotter pin? and if i take the cotter pin out the shaft slides out?
Last edited by bobs77vet; May 1, 2005 at 07:43 PM.
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
ok all the bolts are out i found the bolt that disconnects the spring mechanism but the unit is stuck in there. what am i missing???
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by rtpilot
I see another interesting photo essay in the works. 
yeah and i wish it was some one elses.....what does those set screws do on the collar???
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Thread Starter
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
well turns out the set screw holds the collar in place when the set screw comes out it lets the triangle bracket slide in board and the unit comes out.
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
ok well got to looking at it and thinking about and decidedto make my own mounting bracket to weld to the frame and connect to the headlight frame....i have spent so much money on the engine/trans/steeroids install i need a break....
so i made a bracket out of angle iron
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and i riveted and bolted it together with jbweld also used in between them. the rivets allowed me to mock up the lights to make sure i didn't have an interference issue
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then welded it in.
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and lastly why are springs like that? is that how they are suppose to be connected?
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now to put it all back together...
so i made a bracket out of angle iron
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[/IMG] and i riveted and bolted it together with jbweld also used in between them. the rivets allowed me to mock up the lights to make sure i didn't have an interference issue
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[/IMG] then welded it in.
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[/IMG] and lastly why are springs like that? is that how they are suppose to be connected?
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[/IMG]now to put it all back together...
Last edited by bobs77vet; May 1, 2005 at 10:19 PM.
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From: portland TN
Not Pot Metal.
ONe of mine was busted as well. I bead blasted it clean and took it to a local chrome shop that restores a lot of pieces, because I was told he could fix pot metal. Kind of a lost art. When I went to pick up after being repaired I asked if it was pot metal. He said NO, it was cast aluminum. He tig welded it back up and the repair cost me 75 bucks.
ONe of mine was busted as well. I bead blasted it clean and took it to a local chrome shop that restores a lot of pieces, because I was told he could fix pot metal. Kind of a lost art. When I went to pick up after being repaired I asked if it was pot metal. He said NO, it was cast aluminum. He tig welded it back up and the repair cost me 75 bucks.
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
i can't even imagine what a pain it would be to take that thing out....well that was $75 saved then....anyway...thats all for tonight some how from the diassembly process the alignment of the plunger is out of whack. i have decided to let the "adjusting eye" threads soak on PB blaster overnight before i adjust it....i don't want to torque down on it and break some thing inside the vacuum can.
Last edited by bobs77vet; May 2, 2005 at 12:51 AM.
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
worked on it a little before leaving for work (i'm late)....adjusted the triangle mounting brackets some.....its obvious to me how the bracket broke the plunger was adjusted too far out and the limiting bracket would let fully extend....so over the course of time the fatigue broke the mounting bracket....
heres the question: is the pivot arm that has the springs attached to and is bolted by the headlights suppose to be fully locked so its straight when its open or is it suppose to have a slight angle to it so the plunger retracts easier? and off to work..
heres the question: is the pivot arm that has the springs attached to and is bolted by the headlights suppose to be fully locked so its straight when its open or is it suppose to have a slight angle to it so the plunger retracts easier? and off to work..
Drifting
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From: VetteMOD
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Originally Posted by bobs77vet
worked on it a little before leaving for work (i'm late)....adjusted the triangle mounting brackets some.....its obvious to me how the bracket broke the plunger was adjusted too far out and the limiting bracket would let fully extend....so over the course of time the fatigue broke the mounting bracket....
heres the question: is the pivot arm that has the springs attached to and is bolted by the headlights suppose to be fully locked so its straight when its open or is it suppose to have a slight angle to it so the plunger retracts easier? and off to work..
heres the question: is the pivot arm that has the springs attached to and is bolted by the headlights suppose to be fully locked so its straight when its open or is it suppose to have a slight angle to it so the plunger retracts easier? and off to work..
The headlight covers and frames are aluminum.
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by BBShark
The pivot arm should be a little "over center" when the headlights are up. It is a kind of toggle linkage so that your vacuum actuators are not holding the lights up. The springs are for counterbalancing.
The headlight covers and frames are aluminum.
The headlight covers and frames are aluminum.
so by that you mean they are not fully locked, and i will see a slight angle formed where the two brackets are coming together...(as opposed to no angle when fully locked) thks bob
Melting Slicks
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From: Space Coast Gator Territory
Mine was broken and repaired by a previous owner with pop rivets and sheet metal. While I had it apart, a buddy repaired it with his new TIG welder. It is definately made of aluminum.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2002
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From: Loveland, CO
I also broke mine trying to get the front bolts out of my '73. I took it to a welding shop that advertised alum. welding. They charged 
me $25, but I was careful to not tell them it was out of a Vette. You know how prices go up when they think you are rich enough to own a Vette.
me $25, but I was careful to not tell them it was out of a Vette. You know how prices go up when they think you are rich enough to own a Vette.
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From: Twin Cities Minnesota
It IS possible to weld aluminum and pot metal... With a torch!
If you have a good propane or I use my Oxy/Acytelyne it's a piece O cake.
I have a rod that is way cool. I bought it from a guy at the Minnesota State fair. I also got some from the local welding shop but it's not nearly as good.
I can litterally weld up a 1/4" hole in the SIDE of a beer can ( I have to empty the can first tho
I used the rod to fix my headlight housings. It's awesome stuff I save like $500 fixing both housings
If you have a good propane or I use my Oxy/Acytelyne it's a piece O cake.
I have a rod that is way cool. I bought it from a guy at the Minnesota State fair. I also got some from the local welding shop but it's not nearly as good.
I can litterally weld up a 1/4" hole in the SIDE of a beer can ( I have to empty the can first tho
I used the rod to fix my headlight housings. It's awesome stuff I save like $500 fixing both housings
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From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by BBShark
The pivot arm should be a little "over center" when the headlights are up. It is a kind of toggle linkage so that your vacuum actuators are not holding the lights up. The springs are for counterbalancing.
.
.
got it....the problem i was having is that for some reason the nylon collar that the front bolt (by the headlights) pivots on was not pivoting and when i tightened up the bolt the arm would not pivot....i took it all apart and cleaned it and filed stuff up and it works fine now....
However at looking at the other side the vacuum can plunger is not extending far enough to "lock out" the pivot arm. what happens if i leave that way? does not having it locked, place any more strain on the vacuum cannister?
Instructor
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From: Tampa Bay Florida
I have a '68 and mine are cracked on both sides on both headlights. The headlights bounce when the car's driven down the street.
I also have a lot of damage below the front grills, missing fiberglass and bent metal where the air damn is. The nose of my vette also sits lower than it should. The hood's edge sits about a 1/2 inch higher than the nose.
It looks like the car took a dive under someone's bumper at one time...
My question, would it be better to just replace the front clip? I'm assuming a front clip will include the parts that are bent and broken. If so, can anyone direct me to where I can find a good one at a good price?
Thanks,
Frank
I also have a lot of damage below the front grills, missing fiberglass and bent metal where the air damn is. The nose of my vette also sits lower than it should. The hood's edge sits about a 1/2 inch higher than the nose.
It looks like the car took a dive under someone's bumper at one time...
My question, would it be better to just replace the front clip? I'm assuming a front clip will include the parts that are bent and broken. If so, can anyone direct me to where I can find a good one at a good price?
Thanks,
Frank