cam installation
I got a 2500 stall speed, a shifter kit, underdrive crank pulley, long tube headers with dual exhaust, electric fan, and stage two jet performance Q-jet on my 78 Vette. I bought a performer plus cam that I'm planing to install my self but I have never done this kind of work, I wanted to know if it would be better to take it to a mechanic or put it in my self. I'm planing on geting vortec heads and a performer vortec intake maniforld but I dont know if it fits under the original hood

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Last edited by Empatho; Jun 23, 2005 at 06:18 PM.
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I got a 2500 stall speed, a shifter kit, underdrive crank pulley, long tube headers with dual exhaust, electric fan, and stage two jet performance Q-jet on my 78 Vette. I bought a performer plus cam that I'm planing to install my self but I have never done this kind of work, I wanted to know if it would be better to take it to a mechanic or put it in my self. I'm planing on geting vortec heads and a performer intake maniforld but I dont know if it fits under the original hood

The Performer is meant for stock stall, I think you could go for something with 220 degrees on the intake @ 050.
Comments from others?
Background:
1977 w/stock hood
otherwise stock 350
Q-jet
14" chrome drop base air cleaner
stock ram horn ehaust manifolds
Auto
New stuff:
CompCams 262H 262/270 462/469 110 camshaft
Vortec Heads
Edelbrock Vortec Performer Chrome intake manifold
The detent cable's bracket needs modification and maybe replaced.
The intake bolts are not the same size as the original
Be sure to buy center-bolt valve covers
Coolant temp sensor barely fit under the radiator hose on top of the intake
Top of stock exhaust manifolds fit tightly against the heads causing the valve covers to not fit.
Air cleaner did NOT fit under the hood. I had to buy a new MrGasket 14" chrome low profile unit. I am reusing my base, using their filter and the lids are the same. Then it barely fits. Basically I'm just using a smaller filter. But my old lid was rusty so...
The brackets that hold the spark plug wire channels next to the distributor will need customization.
This is because of the top of the Vortec intake being flat rather than angled. This is also why the detent bracket didn't fit right.
I had to remove the driver's side headlight accuator to get enough room so that I could move the A/C condensor up and forward. Otherwise the cam doesn't have clearance to be sperated from the block. The hood and radiator will need to be removed too.
All in all it wasn't too bad and I consider it to have been a weekend job. Total spent ~$1500
Last edited by 2002z28ssconv; May 4, 2005 at 07:38 PM.
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Thanks for the replies. All suggestions are always greatly appreciated!
Last edited by Empatho; Jul 28, 2005 at 02:25 PM.
I used the trickflow centerbolt adapter kit for ~$100 so I could keep my covers.
Your hood clearance will be tight. I also used a 1/4" phenolic carb spacer and heat shield and had to trim my drop base cleaner about 1/2" - Also keep the carb stud short.
Consider a longer duration cam - BUT, did you get upgraded vortec springs or stock springs? Make sure you match this to the cam. If you have upgraded springs consider the Lunati Voodoo 262/268 or the 268/276.
***With your cam break in--follow the directions exactly and use 1 pint of GM EOS (engine oil supplement).
It will show you how to to change the camshaft step by step. The hardest part I had was taking out the radiator. I never did any engine work before that. It was very easy to complete.















