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Old May 11, 2005 | 02:16 PM
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Default Engine removal

Hi all!

I have been doing some winter/spring work on my 1972 SB Coupe (AUTO,A/C,PS,Std Brakes, Base engine). Started out by needing to R&R the heater core due to a leak. After much foul language, I finished that job and while installing the new heater hoses I decided to replace the leaky power steering valve. Once under the car, that simple job transformed into a R&R the whole front suspension, steering and brake systems. Most of you know how that goes. The car, at 33 years old, is basically sound but needs refreshing in a number of ways. Lars has helped me with some suspension questions. Anyway, I have all the new parts accumulated and the "A"-Arms, springs, steering knuckles and spindles are back from the machine shop nicely blasted w/new bushings and ball joints. Now for my question---------!!!

As I have spent a good deal of time looking at things under the front end, I am thinking about pulling the mill, before I reinstall the above mentioned front end components, and having it rebuilt and balanced by the machine shop. Looks like a relatively simple job to pull the engine but I am wondering--how have some of you supported and transported your engines to and from the machine shop. Any advice for a weekend mechanic regarding this or any matter related to pulling an engine? I thank you for your replies. If you wish, you can email me at the following:

lnlangley@prodigy.net

I live in Austin, Texas
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Old May 11, 2005 | 03:09 PM
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
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I got a set of Motofeet engine stands (without wheels) and bolted them to the engine. Then I put it in the back of a pickup and used nylon straps with hooks on them to secure it in place. (These things were available at the local autoparts dealer.) Drove slowly and all was fine.

If you are on an extreme budget, the engine builder said that they regularly ship engines out by setting them in a couple of old tires. I didn't believe him until I saw it done...
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Old May 11, 2005 | 03:17 PM
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I've done the same thing - set the oil pan in an old tire (w/o the wheel, of course) - tie it down and away you go.
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Old May 11, 2005 | 03:43 PM
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You can also disassemble it & carry it in, in pieces.... this is a one man job (for me) if it's a small block. The empty block weighs a few pounds, but with an adrenaline rush I can lift them. Two person job at the most. You can even fit the parts in a car if it has a big trunk. On the way back (assembled) it's a different story. I have those bolt on legs as well... but I also have a pick up truck. Stick a piece of plywood down and just lay it on its side.
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Old May 11, 2005 | 04:11 PM
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From: Deltona (son of Deland and DAYTONA) FL
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When I bought the 383 from Olivier, I put the motor on a stand. Put the hoist in the back of a Uhaul open trailer. Hoisted the motor on the stand into the trailer. I kept some of the weight on the hoist, some on the stand. I used tie downs to keep everthing from rolling around. I drove home 135 miles that way, over bumps, turns, you name it. No problems.
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Old May 11, 2005 | 04:23 PM
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i used the old tire and tie downs method too. worked great for me. biggest problem is figuring out what to do with the old tire when you are done.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 08:48 AM
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I stripped down the block and threw it in the trunk of the Olds.
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Old May 20, 2005 | 04:08 PM
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Thanks all for your replies. I think that the "old tire" method strapped to a pallet (to help the machine shop unload) will do the trick. At first I thought that there would be a more "high tech" method. Anyway, your recommendations suit me fine. Muchas Gracias!!!
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Old May 20, 2005 | 04:29 PM
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Easiest way is get the machine shop to pick it up, any good machine shop should have an "engine getter" and they should not be charging you for this
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