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Old May 11, 2005 | 05:25 PM
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Default Suspension Question

Forum members, I'm a noob, having just bought a 68 BB Vert. Brought the car to Chevy dealership to get a good once-over, and, as a whole, the car is solid. Unfortunately, they found a broken weld on a right front control arm. Parts and labor through chevy? Approximately $2k. Two questions for this deep well of info:

1) What exactly is the impact of this problem, and what other questions should I be asking?
2) If it must be repaired immediately, what are my chances of finding someone else to do the work, and what would be a reasonable charge?

Any help would be GREATLY apprecaited!
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Old May 11, 2005 | 05:29 PM
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2K for a broken weld on a control arm? Find another shop, that's rediculous. They can replace the arm in a couple of hours, where is it cracked? At the swab bar mount?
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Old May 11, 2005 | 05:33 PM
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Default 2 Grand??

I just had my upper and lower control arm bushings, upper and lower ball joints, and tie rod ends done for just under 1K.

I think I would get some other estimates.

And if something needs a weld I am sure that isnt going to double it.

Chris B
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Old May 11, 2005 | 05:44 PM
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OK-
I just got ahold of my ace in the hole, an experienced C-2 and C-3 owner/mechanic, who said he could do the work for WAY less, and would come to my house and trailer the car to his shop, no less. What a relief.

Thanks for the inputs.
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Old May 11, 2005 | 05:49 PM
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Never bring it to a Chevy dealer. A corvette shop will do a better job abd knows those cars well. A dealer has not seen a C3 in many years. Most of the mechanics have never seen a C3. Run as fast as you can from the dealer and find someone who really knows C3 Vettes
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Old May 11, 2005 | 06:07 PM
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Default Good for you....

Originally Posted by hooterf16
OK-
I just got ahold of my ace in the hole, an experienced C-2 and C-3 owner/mechanic, who said he could do the work for WAY less, and would come to my house and trailer the car to his shop, no less. What a relief.

Thanks for the inputs.
I am glad you found someone who knows what needs to be done with your car.
I wish you the best and many happy miles.

Chris B
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Old May 12, 2005 | 01:33 AM
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Thanks for the inputs. The Chevy dealer replaced my inop. fan clutch, so now I can drive across town without overheating! All the better to take my wheels to someone who knows what the heck they are doing.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 09:00 AM
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After it's done, get a spreader bar. It will help you out.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 09:18 AM
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how does a spreader bar help prevent a broken weld on a control arm? The frame, yes, the control arm mounts..yes..but the arm itself? I don't think so.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 10:15 AM
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True - if it is the lower arm itself that has broken weld.
If so, it should be repairable for cheap $$.

If it is actually the lower CA mounting bracket ... well, that
gets expensive to fix ... and it is something the spreader bar will help prevent.

I wanted to see a picture of where the weld broke.

Edit: IMO a spreader bar is recommended for all C3s, more so if cornered hard.

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Old May 12, 2005 | 10:24 AM
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How does the spreader bar help with the lower mount? With the upper one i agree, with the metal around the spring pocket also but not the mount itself, the integrity of that thing is not affected by frame flex, the only reson that shears off is because of the **** poor plug welds from the factory. If it's complete sections of steel plate that come loose, then yes the spreader bar will help. I too think it's a recommended addition for all C3s.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 10:32 AM
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NO!!! Do not take it to a dealership!! I took mine for a rag joint, ball joints, and control arm bushings and they quoted me about $1k. I took it to a 'Vette mechanic and got everything up front replaced for near that price. A control arm is a couple hundred bucks and a few hours labor. Def. not that expensive.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 11:53 AM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
how does a spreader bar help prevent a broken weld on a control arm? The frame, yes, the control arm mounts..yes..but the arm itself? I don't think so.

I didn't mean to say it's for the arm itself. It's just a good idea to get one especially if your having problems now. Just a good investment piece thats all. My bad
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Old May 12, 2005 | 01:12 PM
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Marck - when the front crossmember weakens in the area of
the lower mounting bracket, the frame flexing can cause
the bracket to break loose from the crappy pocket welds.
That's all I meant. Of course the bracket doesn't just pop off,
since it is also bolted through.

I'm still very curious as to the exact location of the broken weld in this post ... hooter ?

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Old May 12, 2005 | 01:14 PM
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Could you guys talk more about the spreader bar. What is it? How does it go on? Where do you get them? Thanks.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 01:21 PM
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Dave, look at where that bracket is welded to the frame, is the frame flexes inward (the control arm towers) then the bracket just stays in place, all the stress is located in the metal plates around the spring pocket and the seam edges around the front and back of the crossmember, the lower bracket usually seperates from rust pushing the bracket and the frame apart. I don't think the spreader bar will help keep that bracket on, a good bead on both sides will.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 01:25 PM
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The spreader bar is a bar that goes from one side to the other. It mounts to the front part of your upper a-arm. It's kind of like a strut bar that the import cars use. Anyway there are 2 different kinds. One for electric fans and one that is for the stock set up. It reinforces your front end.
I sell them and so does vette brakes. The one for the electric fans is $84 and it's pre-welded. The one for the engine drive fan is $80. They fit all 63-82 vettes.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 01:32 PM
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find out what control arm it needs // upper or lower? Then buy one from a forum vender and have them put it on for you.
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Old May 12, 2005 | 04:02 PM
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Just wanted to add a note about dealers. My frame was bent, and I needed someone to pull it for me. The local Vette shop (a shop known for doing good work) said at least $1500 and he never looked at the car. The other Vette shop I called said they send their frames out for fixing. That shop wouldn't touch the car without pulling the whole body. I finally took it to a Chevy body shop. Granted, I pulled off the front pieces that had to come off, but they were the only ones even willing to work with me. The job was done right, and for under $600. While they were pulling the frame, they straightened the steering wheel and adjusted the reverse lock out cable as well.

I'm not saying some dealers aren't bad, but don't write them all off. Also, keep in mind the prices are dependent on how much they fugure you know about the car. If you aren't very familiar with the car, take someone with you who is.

Ken
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Old May 12, 2005 | 06:59 PM
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DO NOT bring your Vette to a chevy dealer, ever.
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