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383 Block Grinding
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 971
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From: Rockwood TN
383 Block Grinding
I bought the Eagle 383 rotating assembly and it looks like I'm gonna have to grind a little off a the bottom edge of the cylinder bore. My question is how much can I safely grind and what should be the minimum clearence between the rod cap bolt and the block.
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
My 6 inch rod 383's and 396's only required pan rail grinding on cylinders 1-2-4-6 I only clearanced .040 - .050 both outboard and fore and aft. Because the crank has end play which increases with time.
Shorter rod motors with big rods seem to need cylinder bottoms clearanced.
Shorter rod motors with big rods seem to need cylinder bottoms clearanced.
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Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
I bought a Makita dremel 25,000 rpm. You just buy the metal bits and cast iron just flys off. I never use stone bit's
I also have a spare 4340 3.75 crank and rods. So i assemble the motor with the spare stuff and lots of assembly lube - less piston rings. Do the grinding. Then remove the rotating assembly and completely clean the block. I've always worried about getting metal debree damage on the bearing and micro polished crank journals. So by using the spare crank assembly I'm not having to worry about hurting my real motor parts for the stroker projects.
My first 383 I just installed one piston and rod and ground one cylinder at a time. just moving it 1-8 cylinders.
I also have a spare 4340 3.75 crank and rods. So i assemble the motor with the spare stuff and lots of assembly lube - less piston rings. Do the grinding. Then remove the rotating assembly and completely clean the block. I've always worried about getting metal debree damage on the bearing and micro polished crank journals. So by using the spare crank assembly I'm not having to worry about hurting my real motor parts for the stroker projects.
My first 383 I just installed one piston and rod and ground one cylinder at a time. just moving it 1-8 cylinders.
Team Owner
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 88,393
Likes: 2
From: eville in
Originally Posted by gkull
I bought a Makita dremel 25,000 rpm. You just buy the metal bits and cast iron just flys off. I never use stone bit's
I also have a spare 4340 3.75 crank and rods. So i assemble the motor with the spare stuff and lots of assembly lube - less piston rings. Do the grinding. Then remove the rotating assembly and completely clean the block. I've always worried about getting metal debree damage on the bearing and micro polished crank journals. So by using the spare crank assembly I'm not having to worry about hurting my real motor parts for the stroker projects.
My first 383 I just installed one piston and rod and ground one cylinder at a time. just moving it 1-8 cylinders.
I also have a spare 4340 3.75 crank and rods. So i assemble the motor with the spare stuff and lots of assembly lube - less piston rings. Do the grinding. Then remove the rotating assembly and completely clean the block. I've always worried about getting metal debree damage on the bearing and micro polished crank journals. So by using the spare crank assembly I'm not having to worry about hurting my real motor parts for the stroker projects.
My first 383 I just installed one piston and rod and ground one cylinder at a time. just moving it 1-8 cylinders.
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