ignition lock
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,036
Likes: 5
From: Raleigh NC
ignition lock
took the car out today and stopped for gas. then subsequently spent 3 minutes trying to get ignition to unlock so I could start the car. it has been getting progressively worse and I feel I better go ahead and fix the problem. what do I need to do to repair this? the ignition switch has quite a bit of play in it and I also do not need to put it in reverse to take the key out(4 speed) whichn is incorrect also right?
I found instructions on removing the key cylinder but nothing really on what needs adjusted or if I should just buy a new one?
also, while I spend time acquiring the knowledge/part is it draining my battery to leave the ignition in the position right after lock but before the position that delivers power to the interior lights/accessories? I of course cannot remove my key that way but if nothing else I can still take it out for a cruise in the nice weather and return it to the locked garage.
ps-it is a 69
thanks! Dave
I found instructions on removing the key cylinder but nothing really on what needs adjusted or if I should just buy a new one?
also, while I spend time acquiring the knowledge/part is it draining my battery to leave the ignition in the position right after lock but before the position that delivers power to the interior lights/accessories? I of course cannot remove my key that way but if nothing else I can still take it out for a cruise in the nice weather and return it to the locked garage.
ps-it is a 69
thanks! Dave
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,286
Likes: 4
From: Guam
It sounds like you need a new key cylinder and not a switch. You will have to dismantle the steering column at the top to change it. If you have done this before, you should be able to do it without any problems. They key cylinder is held on by a small bolt inside the column under the horn mechanism. Leaving the key in the second position, from the lock, is "off" and should not put a drain on the battery. The cylinders are relatively cheap. I bought one last week for just under $20 at my local NAPA store. If you are unfamiliar with dismantling the steering column, you can either buy a manual or search elsewhere on this forum. I saw a detailed instruction last month in this section.
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 1999
Posts: 2,897
Likes: 0
From: Moon Township PA
Go to www.corvettefaq.com, click on the steering section and read Jim Shea's most excellent articles on steering columns and repair. He has everything you need there, from how-to's to exploded diagrams.
Gary
Gary
Instructor
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 103
Likes: 0
From: athens AL
St. Jude Donor '05
Don't wait!!! I had the same thing on my 72. One day the lock cylinder locked up in the run position. I could not shut the car off. It was a real pain in the butt to replace the lock. Change it now.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 3,036
Likes: 5
From: Raleigh NC
I am going to fix it in the next couple days. a couple questions: I can grab the lock cylinder by the "wings" and it is very loose. is it possible it is just loose in the column and the cylinder is actually ok but just needing resecured, or is it a dead giveaway that it needs replaced?
also, on a 69 I can just remove the hub and steering wheel together without taking the wheel off with a puller?
thanks! Dave
also, on a 69 I can just remove the hub and steering wheel together without taking the wheel off with a puller?
thanks! Dave
Drifting
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,427
Likes: 1
From: Boxford Mass
Originally Posted by Sharky Guam
Nope, cylinder is bad....replace it.
And No, you must use a puller to remove the wheel.
And No, you must use a puller to remove the wheel.
I took my 71 (which is a tilt) down to the key cylinder. The wheel is held on by some screws. You do need a puller & compression tool once you get past the wheel (or very strong thumbs for reassembly).
On the 71, the key cylinder has some little latches on it that need to be pushed in from inside the column to release the key cylinder. I've never heard of a bolt on the column that holds in the cylinder. But then again, I never had 69.
If its a tilt/tele its much harder. I neatly ordered my parts during disassembly, which helped the reassmbly process.
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Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 4,286
Likes: 4
From: Guam
Originally Posted by Sacredgrooves
cool I get to buy some new tools for the job then 
shaft lock compression tool is what I need then right along with a steering wheel puller,correct?
shaft lock compression tool is what I need then right along with a steering wheel puller,correct?
My bad! I did not look at your post carefully.....after 1979, a retainer bolt was used to hold the lock cylinder. Prior to 1979, a tab held the cylinder in. Go to the link below to get the info that you will need....
http://www.corvettefaq.com/redir.asp?site=457
Hope this helps.....
Last edited by Sharky Guam; May 22, 2005 at 10:15 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 6,001
Likes: 112
From: Saginaw Michigan
Earlier you mentioned that you do not have to place your transmission in reverse in order to remove your ignition key. This may not be your whole problem, but the lower lever on your steering column (the one out under the hood, under the brake master cylinder) must be in the full UP position before your ignition key and lock cylinder can be rotated all the way to OFF-LOCK so that you can remove your key.
This paper explains the GM Strg Column/Transmission Shift Interlock System.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/StrgCo...tems27JL04.doc
You should be able to manually move the lever to the full UP position if the cable is broken and not connected to the transmission. If the cable is frozen and won't move, you should be able to remove the cotter pin and disconnect the end of the cable from the lower column lever in order to move it UP.
Good luck,
Jim
This paper explains the GM Strg Column/Transmission Shift Interlock System.
http://www.corvettefaq.com/c3/StrgCo...tems27JL04.doc
You should be able to manually move the lever to the full UP position if the cable is broken and not connected to the transmission. If the cable is frozen and won't move, you should be able to remove the cotter pin and disconnect the end of the cable from the lower column lever in order to move it UP.
Good luck,
Jim
I guess that explains why I dont need reverse to release key...