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Vacuum Line?
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 1
From: Kitchener Ontario
Vacuum Line?
Hi All
I would like to take the air intake duct's and air cleaner housing
off of my 80 L82 and put a chrome air cleaner assembly on.
My question is, what do I do with the vacuum lines that go into
the stock air setup?
Thanks Barry
I would like to take the air intake duct's and air cleaner housing
off of my 80 L82 and put a chrome air cleaner assembly on.
My question is, what do I do with the vacuum lines that go into
the stock air setup?
Thanks Barry
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 1
From: Kitchener Ontario
There is a pipe going from the valve cover into the air cleaner housing
and the snorkel tubes have a thermostatic air cleaner vacuum diaphragm in them that opens and closes with the temp. of the engine.
Will the motor run if I take all the hoses off?
Thanks
and the snorkel tubes have a thermostatic air cleaner vacuum diaphragm in them that opens and closes with the temp. of the engine.
Will the motor run if I take all the hoses off?
Thanks
Pro
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 560
Likes: 0
From: The Valley of The Sun AZ
Originally Posted by X Man
There is a pipe going from the valve cover into the air cleaner housing
and the snorkel tubes have a thermostatic air cleaner vacuum diaphragm in them that opens and closes with the temp. of the engine.
Will the motor run if I take all the hoses off?
Thanks
and the snorkel tubes have a thermostatic air cleaner vacuum diaphragm in them that opens and closes with the temp. of the engine.
Will the motor run if I take all the hoses off?
Thanks
Okay the hose from the covers to the cleaner are for burning the off gasses out of the crankcase(I think) Either way, no problem there, just don't plug the hole. The heat riser hoses actuate the the heat risers in the intake snorkels to allow warm air in from the foil tube(not in picture) connected to the manifold heat shields in cold weather. I believe they are operated by a vacuum solenoid.
You can take all that off, just plug the lines, or change the T for a pass through connector where they come off the solenoid/manifold.
Last edited by tersian; May 25, 2005 at 02:20 PM.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
The small lines to the snorkel butterfly valves can be ignored. They are not terribly important if you go to a non-stock system. Their purpose is the keep the flaps closed until an operating temp of about 120F is reached (as determined by a thermal vacuum switch).
The crankcase vent tube is another story: it is essential to the operation of the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. You cannot just plug it as that will build up crankcase pressure with some bizarre consequences. On the other hand if you leave it vented to the atmosphere it will spew oily fumes over the engine compartment.
I do have a suggestion for you albeit using my 1967 as an example. The first pic shows an aftermarket air cleaner base. You will note that it came with a snout that I have installed in the base. My crankcase vent (327 engine) comes out of the back of the block (as shown in the second pic). My suggestion is that you modify (cut back to 2" or so) the metal tube on the passenger side valve cover and connect it to the snout of the aftermarket air cleaner base with an appropriately sized rubber hose. It can be done in a neat and tidy fashion. Good luck!
The crankcase vent tube is another story: it is essential to the operation of the positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) system. You cannot just plug it as that will build up crankcase pressure with some bizarre consequences. On the other hand if you leave it vented to the atmosphere it will spew oily fumes over the engine compartment.
I do have a suggestion for you albeit using my 1967 as an example. The first pic shows an aftermarket air cleaner base. You will note that it came with a snout that I have installed in the base. My crankcase vent (327 engine) comes out of the back of the block (as shown in the second pic). My suggestion is that you modify (cut back to 2" or so) the metal tube on the passenger side valve cover and connect it to the snout of the aftermarket air cleaner base with an appropriately sized rubber hose. It can be done in a neat and tidy fashion. Good luck!
Last edited by Paul L; May 24, 2005 at 12:28 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
What Paul did is great - perfect solution.
You could replace the breather tube with a push-in breather.
Yes, over time it will start to leave oil in the vicinity.
I have mine like this, and it keeps the drivers side valve cover rust-free.
Most important is that the PCV valve is connected to vacuum.
Paul's is in the oil fill tube - just forward of the thermostat
housing. The breather tube works with the PCV to allow air into
the block when needed. This cannot be plugged closed.
If the engine is in good shape, you will create a large vacuum inside
the block. If the engine has a lot of blow-by (bad rings), then this can
pressurize the block under throttle.
It needs to breath somehow - somewhere. You decide how and where.
No open hole, as this will only suck crud and dirt into the engine.
One thing you could do is run a small length of hose off of the breather
tube ... hanging down near the motor mount - and attach a push-in
breather at the end. This way, at least any spewed oil drops are unseen.
You could replace the breather tube with a push-in breather.
Yes, over time it will start to leave oil in the vicinity.
I have mine like this, and it keeps the drivers side valve cover rust-free.
Most important is that the PCV valve is connected to vacuum.
Paul's is in the oil fill tube - just forward of the thermostat
housing. The breather tube works with the PCV to allow air into
the block when needed. This cannot be plugged closed.
If the engine is in good shape, you will create a large vacuum inside
the block. If the engine has a lot of blow-by (bad rings), then this can
pressurize the block under throttle.
It needs to breath somehow - somewhere. You decide how and where.
No open hole, as this will only suck crud and dirt into the engine.
One thing you could do is run a small length of hose off of the breather
tube ... hanging down near the motor mount - and attach a push-in
breather at the end. This way, at least any spewed oil drops are unseen.
Last edited by NHvette; May 24, 2005 at 03:31 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
Likes: 8
From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by NHvette
What Paul did is great - perfect solution.
(I think I see a fingerprint on the distributor...
)
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
Good to see you posting again, Paul. You always have good pics.
You changed the valve covers ? What - left to right ?
Nice polish job on 'em. Hmmm - I don't see the casting defect on the polished version.
You sure those are original ?? J/K
You changed the valve covers ? What - left to right ?
Nice polish job on 'em. Hmmm - I don't see the casting defect on the polished version.
You sure those are original ?? J/K
Thread Starter
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 110
Likes: 1
From: Kitchener Ontario
Thanks everyone for the help.
Paul those are great pictures....you have done a nice job
of locating the hose.
If I go with the open chrome air cleaner will it improve the
engine in any way?
Thanks again
Barry
Paul those are great pictures....you have done a nice job
of locating the hose.
If I go with the open chrome air cleaner will it improve the
engine in any way?
Thanks again
Barry
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 30,995
Likes: 99
From: Ontario
You guys sure know your Corvettes! The 1966-67 casting flaw was ground down. Does this mean I get a t-shirt of some kind without a lawsuit?
Barry,
To address your question I really do not know. And quite frankly for my type of driving it does not matter. Having said that there are those who claim (e.g. GM engineers) that the cold-air pick-up at the front, above the rad is designed for optimal performance. That is why the dual duct system was developed. This is my 1979.
By contrast, the open air filter set-up as with my 1967 sucks up hot underhood air. Wish I had an answer for you. But Sunday afternoon cruising is all I do....
Barry,
To address your question I really do not know. And quite frankly for my type of driving it does not matter. Having said that there are those who claim (e.g. GM engineers) that the cold-air pick-up at the front, above the rad is designed for optimal performance. That is why the dual duct system was developed. This is my 1979.
By contrast, the open air filter set-up as with my 1967 sucks up hot underhood air. Wish I had an answer for you. But Sunday afternoon cruising is all I do....
Last edited by Paul L; May 24, 2005 at 08:37 PM.
