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Hey all. I'm fed up with my factory-style rocker adjusting nuts. I've replaced all the nuts and studs and STILL can't get them to hold adjustment. The nut tension is all over the place and I'm using Federal-Mogul/Dana hardware! These are holding down factory-style stamped rockers/*****, solid lifters, and don't see any severe lift, but DO see 6500 rpm regularly.
I want to move "up" to a poly lock type nut in the hopes of reducing maintenance and increasing accuracy.
Do they really work?
Is one better than another?
Do they fit under short valve covers?
Any special tools needed to ease installation/adjustment?
Anything else I should know?
They work great. Just make sure it's high PSI steel, and not from China. I've had some chinese adjusting nuts chip at the bottom face, leaving debris in the valvetrain area. Not something I want cruising through my rocker bearings.
As for adjustment, most people just crank them down pretty hard with a combination of an open end wrench and an allen wrench. If you want to do it by the book, you need a special valve adjustment tool like they make for motorcycles, where you can actually attach a fishing scale to one end and calculate for proper torque. Then again I don't even know if they make these tools in sizes to work for our motors. Now you've got me curious...
i'd say go for it. It sounds like your rocker studs are a little worn. Are they pressed-in or screw-in studs?
when u show off your nuts at a car show poly locks look/work fine.
An equally effective fix is to double nut it and torque the top nut(std. or narrow type) to 20# while holding the lower nut. Caution: girls may call you bubba when they see your nuts)
Had the same problem. Sub 500 lift cam with Comp roller tip rockers. Posi Locks STAYED PUT. Just don't crank on the set screws...I've seen an overtightened set screw actually break the rocker stud. (not ARP studs) I had tall valve covers, so I don't know if they'll work with short.
Eddie
Not exactly what you want to hear, but you cannot beat new OEM parts for longevity in the valve train with few exceptions and poly locks and roller stuff are not one of them for basically street applications.
when u show off your nuts at a car show poly locks look/work fine.
An equally effective fix THAT FITS UNDER A LOW VC is to double nut it and torque the top nut(std. or narrow type) to 20# while holding the lower nut. Caution: girls may call you bubba when they see your nuts)
I have had mine about 6 months, they have all held their settings perfectly. This isn't a free pass to never check your valves again but I do trust them more than the stock nuts. I had a valve spring break the other day and I didn't hear it for a while, if the nut had moved my luck probably would've run out. I think they're CompCams brand.
I just adjust with the main nut and hold it in place with a 5/8" box wrench while tightening the setscrew. If you have solid lifters and need better precision, start a little loose before tightening the setscrew and recheck. That's something you have to get a feel for.
-Chris
Last edited by LiveandLetDrive; May 25, 2005 at 01:13 AM.
Before I used my Poly-Locks, I removed the rocker arm studs and had the ends machined flat. The stock studs are not really that flat. Now with the machined flat studs, I could use the outer adjusting nut for the correct rocker arm clearance, and then use the allen wrench driven insert to torque into the stud and lock-up the entire mechanism. In other words, polylocks work best if the top of the rocker arm stud is exactly flat. Usually they are not exactly flat without machinging.
I initially had a great deal of problems with rocker arms working loose. After the above procedure, I never had a problem again!
Last edited by 68/70Vette; May 25, 2005 at 10:56 PM.
Before I used my Poly-Locks, I removed the rocker arm studs and had the ends machined flat. The stock studs are not really that flat. Now with the machined flat studs, I could use the outer adjusting nut for the correct rocker arm clearance, and then use the allen wrench driven insert to torque into the stud and lock-up the entire mechanism. In other words, polylocks work best if the top of the rocker arm stud is exactly flat. Usually they are not exactly flat without machinging.
I initially had a great deal of problems with rocker arms working loose. After the above procedure, I never had a problem again!
This Person is Correct. As he said if you are going to use Poly Locks then have the rocker studs machined flat so the Allen screw has something to go down to with even pressure.
But as others have mentioned. I used the GM Long slot rockers with there new nuts and did not have a problem. Now granted they are not designed to be adjusted many times as there factory crimp will get loose on the stud then you would need to purchase a new set of rocker arm nuts. But get GM. Happy Rocking lol
My poly locks wouldnt fit under the factory aluminum valve covers. I ended up having to grind down the oil diverters or drippers, or whatever you want to call them.