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How to attach nose bar support?

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Old May 25, 2005 | 09:10 AM
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Default How to attach nose bar support?

I need to put a replacement nose bar support on my 76 and wasn't able to find out how it attaches from the AIM. This is the V-shaped bar that runs along the very front of the car. It also has the attachment points for the two "arms" that extend from the aluminum headlight frames. Is this just glued in like the header bar?
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Old May 25, 2005 | 12:43 PM
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I glued mine in, and I recall there are at least a couple pop-rivets
to keep it in place when assembling. Bolting the bumper up will
hold it in place fine, if you don't want to glue it.
When I glued mine in, I put 1/4-20 bolts through all the holes
to keep it "tight" when curing.

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Old May 25, 2005 | 01:11 PM
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Yeah, I was wondering about the holes. I couldn't tell whether they were threaded holes into the bumper or not. All that remained of my original one was about three inches of rust attached to the arms of the headlight supports! What type of glue would you recommend?
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Old May 25, 2005 | 01:19 PM
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If you have any fiberglass bonding material (Vette-bond, Fusor, etc) that should work. Some guys use a urethane adheasive that requires a special caulking gun to apply. I would recommend using stainless steel or aluminum rivets to hold it in.
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Old May 25, 2005 | 10:57 PM
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I posted a question on this topic (or closely related)..my nose is "un-bonding" from this "V" bar and was also informed to use FUSOR and to pick up some tiny "c" clamps to hold in place as it cures...

I haven't purchased yet, but did a "google" search to find the manufacturer (sorry, just skips my mind at the moment). From their website, you can do a search for distributors in your area. Probably most auto paint supply store "jobbers" would carry it.
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Old May 26, 2005 | 09:17 AM
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You can go with the ultimate 2-part urethane ... and special ($50+)caulking gun.
My parts/paint store carries 3M and SEM brands.
I used a premium 1 part urethane contruction adhesive and stainless pop rivets.
A few bux at Home Depot ... the black stuff is great for sealing water leaks.
http://NHvette.com/ftp/_pictures/vet...nosedone_2.jpg
http://NHvette.com/ftp/_pictures/vet...PLadhesive.jpg

Last edited by NHvette; May 26, 2005 at 09:21 AM.
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Old May 26, 2005 | 09:27 AM
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I used epoxy adhesive, of a peanut butter consistency. You can make your own w/ epoxy adhesive and thickening it w/ micro balloons and/or fibers. It's much stronger than urethane adhesive.
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Old May 26, 2005 | 09:39 AM
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NHVette - thanks for the pictures, they are truly worth a thousand words! I see that you have bolts going into the nose bar holes. Since my front bumper is already attached, is there any way for me to get these bolts in without taking off the bumper? (it doesn't look like it). All the seams on my front have been filled in and smoothed and the paint is in good shape, so I hate to take the bumper off unless I absolutely have to. How important are the bolts? If the bar is bonded with adhesive, can I get away with just this?

On a related note, thanks for all your advice and help on getting the headlights out. It was as hard a job as you warned me, but I had no choice. Every pivot was frozen into a corroded mess. Happily, we have a bead blasting cabinet at work that I can use whenever I want. Now, everything is cleaned, polished and painted. All I need are the rebuild parts to arrive in the big brown truck and I will put 'em back together.
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Old May 26, 2005 | 11:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Vette Gator
NHVette - thanks for the pictures, they are truly worth a thousand words! I see that you have bolts going into the nose bar holes. Since my front bumper is already attached, is there any way for me to get these bolts in without taking off the bumper? (it doesn't look like it). All the seams on my front have been filled in and smoothed and the paint is in good shape, so I hate to take the bumper off unless I absolutely have to. How important are the bolts? If the bar is bonded with adhesive, can I get away with just this?

On a related note, thanks for all your advice and help on getting the headlights out. It was as hard a job as you warned me, but I had no choice. Every pivot was frozen into a corroded mess. Happily, we have a bead blasting cabinet at work that I can use whenever I want. Now, everything is cleaned, polished and painted. All I need are the rebuild parts to arrive in the big brown truck and I will put 'em back together.
The 1/4-20 bolts you see in the nose bar are the bumper mounting holes themselves.
I put the bolts in to hold the bar in place as the adhesive cured.
So, you should have something in there with the bumper mounted ...
be it the stock retainers with studs, aftermarket stainless bolt retainers,
or plain old bolts with washers. Whatever is bolting the bumper up is
also holding the nosebar. If the bumper is only bonded on with adhesive,
then you don't really need the nose bar. It is basically used to provide
a solid surface that the bumper retainer nuts pull against.
There may be a rubber body bushing at the center of the bar - holding
the nose up.

So, if you do install the bar, adhesive without rivets should be fine ...
but you should have bolts installed through the bar, surround, and bumper 'sandwich'.

-Dave
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Old May 26, 2005 | 11:55 AM
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Originally Posted by Twin_Turbo
I used epoxy adhesive, of a peanut butter consistency. You can make your own w/ epoxy adhesive and thickening it w/ micro balloons and/or fibers. It's much stronger than urethane adhesive.
Stronger, yes ... but more brittle also ... unless you buy a flexible epoxy.
Thickening with cut glass fibers would definitely help a lot. I dare you
to get the nose bar off my car without taking the front of the surround
with it.
Plus, you don't need any adhesive, really. It is an added plus.
The bumper bolts will hold it fine.

Hey Marck - might be driving her next week !!!
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Old May 26, 2005 | 05:15 PM
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Oh you dare me eh

Damn you're really beating me,I don't even see the light at the end of the tunnel, I'm not sure there even is one
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