por15 vs paint
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 977
Likes: 1
From: wash. dc
por15 vs paint
i plan on redoing my engine and under carriage this fall/winter... i know por15 is better for the frame but is it also a better choice for the engine...opinions pleez
Pro
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 520
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From: Front Range
I don't think Por15 is suited for high temperature applications such as that. Go for a 500 degree Duplicolor rattle can, use their primer first, then whatever 500 degree color you want on top. I've had great success using this method.
the blonde weasel
the blonde weasel
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by iNdigo
I don't think Por15 is suited for high temperature applications such as that...
I might not be worth the expense. The amount required is not that much and the engine really doesn't get that hot. Many people say you can use regular paint, or standard high-temp paint if you are worried about the temp.
Drifting
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,327
Likes: 5
From: 2010 C6 Grand Sport Convertible
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I used regular paint on mine 14 years ago and have no problems with it burning off. Engine temperature never exceeds the water temperature.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 977
Likes: 1
From: wash. dc
por15 vs paint
of course i was planning on using por15 engine paint, marine clean and possibly metal ready... is all that really a necessity or am i planning on doing more than is really required... thinking of doing my engine in red to match the car...
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Little Rock AR
Originally Posted by 71redskin
i plan on redoing my engine and under carriage this fall/winter... i know por15 is better for the frame but is it also a better choice for the engine...opinions pleez
Powder coat on the removable pieces is pretty nice. Regular paint with good prep works well. For the engine you can use high temp paint. JMO
-Mark.
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 1,806
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From: Burlington WI
Here is the link
Originally Posted by raider21
where can you get POR-15? and how much is it?
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 176
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From: leroy n.y.
i wire wheeled my hole frame 14 hrs worth in this frme is mint put on por -15 and it looks like it came from the factory and you cant scrape it off for nothin unless you put it over grease thats the only way, i even did the wheel wells you will need two quarts plus, i just did my exhaust manifolds in the por-15 cast paint they look awsome but the dam pint you got to buy i could do 50 of the dam things corvette central has good prices!!!1
Race Director
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 10,643
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From: Foxfield CO 1970 Convertible
Originally Posted by raider21
where can you get POR-15? and how much is it?
http://www.por15.com/
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
I have always bought direct, too.
However, my local parts store now carries a small line of POR stuff.
Try calling around locally.
Degreaser is very important. Castrol superclean or simplegreen
will do just as well as marine clean.
The metal ready etchant can help adhesion on clean metal.
I would suggest: rather than metal ready - use "A Must for Rust" - at Home Depot. ...
it is essentially the same thing - Phosphoric acid to etch the surface.
Other products, too: Ospho, Naval Jelly, etc.
However, my local parts store now carries a small line of POR stuff.
Try calling around locally.
Degreaser is very important. Castrol superclean or simplegreen
will do just as well as marine clean.
The metal ready etchant can help adhesion on clean metal.
I would suggest: rather than metal ready - use "A Must for Rust" - at Home Depot. ...
it is essentially the same thing - Phosphoric acid to etch the surface.
Other products, too: Ospho, Naval Jelly, etc.
Pro
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 691
Likes: 69
From: Juneau AK
If you didn't know, POR-15 also has engine paint... it is intended to be brushed on (after the proper prep), but a buddy and I sprayed it on. There are very clear directions as to how thin you can dilute the paint and even at its thinnest ratio this stuff is thick!!!! The guy who sprayed mine had two guns/nozzles with him and said he really needed the bigger one he had left at home.
When it's cure it looks every bit as tough as the regular POR-15 and had great gloss. As I recall it's available in about 10 colors....
Check POR-15's web site for details on prep, etc.
I can't tell you how it lasts as I'm still reassembling my car after a body-off. But if it's as solid as the other POR-15 products I have no worries....
I have a couple of pics after the paint job, but don't have a host for them. Shoot me a PM if you want them.
kdlp
When it's cure it looks every bit as tough as the regular POR-15 and had great gloss. As I recall it's available in about 10 colors....
Check POR-15's web site for details on prep, etc.
I can't tell you how it lasts as I'm still reassembling my car after a body-off. But if it's as solid as the other POR-15 products I have no worries....
I have a couple of pics after the paint job, but don't have a host for them. Shoot me a PM if you want them.
kdlp
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
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From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
This is my latest motor done in POR-15 engine paint. Color is called Titanium. This paint rocks! Slick surface...You could pressure wash all day and it won't come off....
Did the entire chassis and underside of another ride I have in their regular POR-15. This paint is as tough as they say! Just take the time to prep it right. The result is worth it...
Stripped, sandblasted and metal prepped...Pic of the old 73 attached
Sprayed in makeshift booth
This was done 4 years ago and the paint looks exactly like it did when i sprayed it. I'm hardly ever here in C3, but if I can help with tips on this stff, pm me. I've made about every mistake you can make with this stuff. Had to sandblast the frame twice after wiping the frame down with lacquer thinner(not good)prior to painting the first time. This stuff is even hard to sandblast!!
Did the entire chassis and underside of another ride I have in their regular POR-15. This paint is as tough as they say! Just take the time to prep it right. The result is worth it...
Stripped, sandblasted and metal prepped...Pic of the old 73 attached
Sprayed in makeshift booth
This was done 4 years ago and the paint looks exactly like it did when i sprayed it. I'm hardly ever here in C3, but if I can help with tips on this stff, pm me. I've made about every mistake you can make with this stuff. Had to sandblast the frame twice after wiping the frame down with lacquer thinner(not good)prior to painting the first time. This stuff is even hard to sandblast!!
Pro
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 585
Likes: 0
From: Royal Oak MI
This was done 4 years ago and the paint looks exactly like it did when i sprayed it. I'm hardly ever here in C3, but if I can help with tips on this stff, pm me. I've made about every mistake you can make with this stuff. Had to sandblast the frame twice after wiping the frame down with lacquer thinner(not good)prior to painting the first time. This stuff is even hard to sandblast!![/QUOTE]
What should you wipe everything down with prior to painting? I though Lacquer thinner was OK?
What should you wipe everything down with prior to painting? I though Lacquer thinner was OK?
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 205
Likes: 0
From: Northern Idaho
Originally Posted by 72-LT1
This was done 4 years ago and the paint looks exactly like it did when i sprayed it. I'm hardly ever here in C3, but if I can help with tips on this stff, pm me. I've made about every mistake you can make with this stuff. Had to sandblast the frame twice after wiping the frame down with lacquer thinner(not good)prior to painting the first time. This stuff is even hard to sandblast!!
once blasted,as long as the medium you blasted with is clean,you should not clean what was blasted,just prime/seal.the degrease and dewaxer or whatever your using to clean will get into the pores and wont evaporate out will cause problems,especialy with exterior bc/cc systems,also when handeling metal panels after blasting use gloves,the oil from your hands will get in the pores and cause problems later,I wouldnt worry so much on a frame,but info is more for a exterior paint job
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 81,241
Likes: 3,063
From: altered state
St. Jude Donor '05
POR 15 recommends rinsing it off after blasting, some marine clean wouldn't hurt.Paint on bare metal: I used no primer. You can let it air dry, even if it gets some flash rust its no problem. Their metal prep product is very good. Used it on the frame and most of the big pieces. Some of the smaller stuff I wiped down withacetone . Do NOT use lacquer thinner to wipe it down. It will cause the paint to react and you'll be doing it over. Ask me how I know The most important thing as an above post says is to make sure there is zero grease on the part. If you are blowing parts dry be sure to use a separator if you are using a gas compressor.
The most important thing as an above post says is to make sure there is zero grease on the part. If you are blowing parts dry be sure to use a separator if you are using a gas compressor.
