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The scenario goes as follows: Son-in-law's '75 L-82 - Stomped on the gas to "go fast" and heard a pop and then silence.
Things we checked out so far:
1. Gas in the tank - carb. pumps gas into manifold
2. Then focused on ignition. No spark at spark plugs.
3. Removed coil and module - took to NAPA and verified module was OK.
4. Couldn't check coil, so bought a new one.
5. Re-assembled everything - still no spark.
6. Checked rotor and it turns with the engine, so it's still connected to the cam.
7. Checked the module wire harness and it looks good. No pinches or apparent opens.
8. Verified that there is power going to the Bat. terminal on the distributor.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
you need to check to see if you have 12v going to the dist, is this an HEI if so its on the drivers side of the dist cap pull off the spade connector and verify you have 12v+
if its a points dist verify you have voltage at the coil, don't be surprised if your coil voltage is less then 12v. it will be less because of the ballast resistor
out of curiosity does the rest of your electrical system work properly?
Last edited by bobs77vet; Jun 3, 2005 at 10:44 PM.
Good call - I forgot to mention in my troubleshooting list that I did verify with a test light, that I have 12V at the "Batt" terminal on the dist. It's an HEI unit, by the way.
My next venture might have to be under the advance plate to see if there's something amiss with the magnetic coil.
Yes, cap and rotor are almost new. I just checked the shop manual, and realized that I overlooked the pickup coil. It has two leads going to the module. Perhaps that's the culprit.
Doesn't leave much else to go wrong, eh?
I'll tackle that tomorrow. If you have any other ideas, I'm all ears.
Update - Replaced the module and coil, even though they didn't check bad. Checked all of the wires going from the module and coil pick up and they all Ohmed out OK.
Checked all voltages to the Tach and Bat. terminals on the Dist. All check to 12 V. and greater than 7 V. when cranking, just like the shop manual says.
In desperation, removed the cap, hooked a wire to the center electrode and held it 1/4" away from ground and cranked it over.
Still No Spark!!
Looks like the next step is going to be a flat bed tow to a garage, because I've run out of ideas.
From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by 7T9Shark
Update - Replaced the module and coil, even though they didn't check bad. Checked all of the wires going from the module and coil pick up and they all Ohmed out OK.
Checked all voltages to the Tach and Bat. terminals on the Dist. All check to 12 V. and greater than 7 V. when cranking, just like the shop manual says.
In desperation, removed the cap, hooked a wire to the center electrode and held it 1/4" away from ground and cranked it over.
Still No Spark!!
Looks like the next step is going to be a flat bed tow to a garage, because I've run out of ideas.
Any miracle workers out there??
Why tow the car? Pull the dist and have it checked or try it in another car.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
ok lets bring new electricity to the distributor right from the battery.....use a spade connector and a long wire....lets make sure that the power isn't cutting off for some reason when you go to crank it....not sure why it would do that but lets rule it out of the equation
Input voltage consistently checks 12V with ignition on and 8V during cranking, which is per spec., but tomorrow night, will try the remote voltage input trick directly from a battery.
If that doesn't work, the distributor comes out for a teardown. It's getting personal now.....
I just went through the same thing. It ended up being the ingnition switch mounted on top of the steering column. Drop the steering column, don't do what I did and look for it inside the column.
Last edited by tonygecg; Jun 7, 2005 at 08:46 AM.
Reason: show signature
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by 7T9Shark
You're reading my mind - was gonna try that next.
Input voltage consistently checks 12V with ignition on and 8V during cranking, which is per spec., but tomorrow night, will try the remote voltage input trick directly from a battery.
If that doesn't work, the distributor comes out for a teardown. It's getting personal now.....
Thanks for hangin' in there with me.
you know just for giggles and grins lets ground the distributor base right to the same battery.....
SUCCESS!!! Tonight went through the inductor coil trouble shooting sequence one more time, and viola! no resistance. (I think it was intermittent, because on Sunday I was able to measure 500 Ohms)
So, pulled the distributor, replaced the inductor and the thing fired right off.
Thanks to all for your suggestions. Glad we prevailed.
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