Torque converter install
Safety Car
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,758
Likes: 3
From: Surrey
I'll try to throw in a few things that I can remember when I swapped mine out:
While you ake everything apart try to remember how much clearance there is between things so that you can check it all on installation.
Check the flexplate carefully for broken or damaged teeth & cracks (esp near the crankshaft bolts). Also use a straight edge to check that it's not warped. Any problems with it then get a new one (not expensive & much easier to do while you can get to it).
Make sure the pocket in the end of the crankshaft is clean.
It's a good time to also check the clearance between the starter motor teeth & flexplate teeth.
Have a close look at the new converter & bushings that slide into the oil seal (this is a bit hazy - I can't remember what it looked like, but any sharp edges that can damage the seal should be cleaned up).
Put a quart of fluid into the converter before fitting it & also wipe some fluid onto the snout that slides into the trans before fitting the converter and trans together.
Fitting the converter to the trans had a lot of warnings in the instructions. If you get it wrong or damage something then you'll be looking at pulling it all apart again, so great care is required. You have to slide the converter onto the input shaft & engage it with something (the pump? I can't remember!). There was a seal on my trans but it may only be on ones with a locking converter? Either way, if there's a seal there then coat it with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) before fitting the converter. The converter must be fitted to the trans without cocking it to one side. If you get it right then it should easily slide into place. If it's off centre then don't force it as you can damage things.
What I do remember clearly is that the converter (which is a damn awkward shape to hold while laying under the car!) needs to be fed into the trans absolutely square to it & no force must be used. As it slides in you need to turn it slowly to get some splines to line up. Once that happens it'll slide on further, but there's also something else to line up to get it to go fully home. Keep turning it & you should feel it go fully home. If you don't do the last part & try to pull the trans up to the engine by tightening the mounting bolts then you'll cause some very expensive damage.
What I did was to have a good look at both sides of the converter & inside the trans to see how it all goes together. Once you can see what's happening then it's obvious how to fit it correctly. Just be careful with the seals. It goes without saying that cleanliness is paramount (easy to say, but not that easy when laying underneath!).
Then you need to fit the trans to the engine. If you put it in place so that the mounting flanges are tight together there should be a slight gap between the converter & the flexplate (something under 1/4"? Check it when you remove the original). The converter should have slight fore & aft movement when the trans & motor are bolted up. If it doesn't and the converter is hard up against the flexplate then it's probably not fully engaged in the trans (needs more turning & pushing). Use threadlocking compound on the bolts that fix the converter to the flexplate & tighten to the correct torque. Make sure that you use the correct bolts as ones that are too long will cause damage.
The only other thing that I can think of is that the bolts holding the trans to the motor were a breeze to do, apart from the two at the top. They were buggers. The easy way to get to them is to place a jack under the rear of the trans & drop it down as far as you can (DO NOT allow the distributor to touch the firewall). Then you can use a socket wrench with a socket on 2 or 3 10" extension bars & get to the bolts by going over the top of the trans. Go in from the rear so that the socket wrench is behind the trans & the extension bars run over the top of it. You should then easily be able to get the socket onto those 2 bolts (may need one of those wobbly attachments to get it onto the bolts straight). Trying to get to the bolts up the side of the trans tunnel will just result in lots of blood.
All the while I had blocks under the engine sump that stopped it tilting back & ramming the distributor through the firewall (= $$$$'s).
That's all I can remember, but I was fitting a th200-4r so some of it may not apply to you. It's also a good time to replace the driveshaft UJ's (while-I'm-at-it-itis rears its ugly head
).
While you ake everything apart try to remember how much clearance there is between things so that you can check it all on installation.
Check the flexplate carefully for broken or damaged teeth & cracks (esp near the crankshaft bolts). Also use a straight edge to check that it's not warped. Any problems with it then get a new one (not expensive & much easier to do while you can get to it).
Make sure the pocket in the end of the crankshaft is clean.
It's a good time to also check the clearance between the starter motor teeth & flexplate teeth.
Have a close look at the new converter & bushings that slide into the oil seal (this is a bit hazy - I can't remember what it looked like, but any sharp edges that can damage the seal should be cleaned up).
Put a quart of fluid into the converter before fitting it & also wipe some fluid onto the snout that slides into the trans before fitting the converter and trans together.
Fitting the converter to the trans had a lot of warnings in the instructions. If you get it wrong or damage something then you'll be looking at pulling it all apart again, so great care is required. You have to slide the converter onto the input shaft & engage it with something (the pump? I can't remember!). There was a seal on my trans but it may only be on ones with a locking converter? Either way, if there's a seal there then coat it with petroleum jelly (Vaseline) before fitting the converter. The converter must be fitted to the trans without cocking it to one side. If you get it right then it should easily slide into place. If it's off centre then don't force it as you can damage things.
What I do remember clearly is that the converter (which is a damn awkward shape to hold while laying under the car!) needs to be fed into the trans absolutely square to it & no force must be used. As it slides in you need to turn it slowly to get some splines to line up. Once that happens it'll slide on further, but there's also something else to line up to get it to go fully home. Keep turning it & you should feel it go fully home. If you don't do the last part & try to pull the trans up to the engine by tightening the mounting bolts then you'll cause some very expensive damage.
What I did was to have a good look at both sides of the converter & inside the trans to see how it all goes together. Once you can see what's happening then it's obvious how to fit it correctly. Just be careful with the seals. It goes without saying that cleanliness is paramount (easy to say, but not that easy when laying underneath!).
Then you need to fit the trans to the engine. If you put it in place so that the mounting flanges are tight together there should be a slight gap between the converter & the flexplate (something under 1/4"? Check it when you remove the original). The converter should have slight fore & aft movement when the trans & motor are bolted up. If it doesn't and the converter is hard up against the flexplate then it's probably not fully engaged in the trans (needs more turning & pushing). Use threadlocking compound on the bolts that fix the converter to the flexplate & tighten to the correct torque. Make sure that you use the correct bolts as ones that are too long will cause damage.
The only other thing that I can think of is that the bolts holding the trans to the motor were a breeze to do, apart from the two at the top. They were buggers. The easy way to get to them is to place a jack under the rear of the trans & drop it down as far as you can (DO NOT allow the distributor to touch the firewall). Then you can use a socket wrench with a socket on 2 or 3 10" extension bars & get to the bolts by going over the top of the trans. Go in from the rear so that the socket wrench is behind the trans & the extension bars run over the top of it. You should then easily be able to get the socket onto those 2 bolts (may need one of those wobbly attachments to get it onto the bolts straight). Trying to get to the bolts up the side of the trans tunnel will just result in lots of blood.
All the while I had blocks under the engine sump that stopped it tilting back & ramming the distributor through the firewall (= $$$$'s).
That's all I can remember, but I was fitting a th200-4r so some of it may not apply to you. It's also a good time to replace the driveshaft UJ's (while-I'm-at-it-itis rears its ugly head
).
Le Mans Master
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 7,720
Likes: 12
From: Chattanooga TN
with the above. I would add/clarify:Do replace the front seal in the transmission.
When putting the converter in, keep rotating it and pushing in gently until it seats all the way. Gently you will push the converter in until it hits, then rotate it and in will go in some more and seat. Then it is in all the way.
