I pulled the L82 out because of Low Oil Pressure and because it has over 100K on it. I've got it on the engine stand but have not yet torn into it
I have seen the posts about Rebuilding vs. Crate Engines.
Let's say that my bottom end needs work and I want to change the L82 heads (and possibly Cam) out to something better. I want a 300+HP motor @flywheel that is 100% streetable.
Do you guys believe that rebuilding the lower end is more than buying a crate? For example here is a quote that I got from a local machine shop:
Turning the Crank and installing new bearings- $100
Rebore and rehoning (if needed)- $10 per cylinder
Vat the Engine- $85
New Rings- ?
Then what if I bought a set of the Vortec heads that I have been seeing mentioned- $500
That would seem less $$ than a crate but I really don't know enough about this subject to know what else I am missing.
The bottom line is my bottom line: I want to spend as least as possible and have good HP at the same time (just like everyone right?)
I want it to be a solid rebuild but there seems to be so many perf. parts out there for sale. I want to have the "right combination" of parts so that I am making the most bang for the buck...Any suggestions?

 

The first and most important question is:
Do you have a good engine rebuilder that you can trust?
If not, you have no choice but to do a crate engine.

Everyone around here knows my choice of heads. My L82 rocks...thanks to a simple head swap

 

I went the other route and dropped a GM crate 350 330hp H.O. motor. Very happy with mine, just had it ont he dyno, and am getting headers and duel exhaust installed next week. Have the original engine in the garage if I ever want it for anything.
Alex

 

Hey Page,

Fill me in on those magic heads that you have.
I'm looking for that winning combination

 

If you buy the Vortec heads you need a new intake too. The Summit/Dart Fuelie heads go $650 for the pair and you can use your stock intake.

Sorry, Page has infected me, I'm like a Stepford L82.

 

Ain't magic. Just cheap and effective. I was looking a smooth idle and good performance up to 5000 rpm -- real world driving. The L82 in stock form has a good short block and a good cam, but crappy 76cc "smog" heads.

The Summit heads have classic "fuelie head" specs: 67cc chambers, 165cc runners, and big L82-equivalent valves, plus Vortec-style combustion chambers as a bonus. All for 650 bucks a pair. Now that's magic...cuz I'm cheap!

 

Ok now, that's what I am looking for
Since you like those heads from Summit- what kind of HP ballpark do you think you gained?
Also, what do you think of my theory of getting the bottom end rebuilt as needed (because of my original low oil pressure problem), then adding those Summit heads and possibly adding a mild Cam ( I don't know the shape of my current cam yet)
BTW- I don't know a machine shop here in Dallas personally. I just called the closest one to my house- so I guess that means that I don't have a shop to trust as well.
If anyone in D/FW knows of a good one please chime in....

 

it costs money to build and engine and it will exceed the cost of a crate engine....sorry but true....now if you build your own engine the clearances will be tighter then a crate engine...but crate enigines have warranties....but your home built engine has a person to talk to....i went with a local engine builder to build my engine, it is a really tough call.

 

Can someone break down the cost of a rebuild then?
What in involved as far as costs of the individual items that a machine shop should do? What parts can I do?

 

if you add it up piece meal its gets real scary.....i think one of the big engine building companies has a price sheet ...let me look for it and if i can find it i'll post it...hold on
heres one just google "machine services for rebuilt engines"

http://www.rpmrons.com/

 

I'm gonna agree with Bob. I put a set of heads on a 65K motor, which is OK to do. But anything over 100K likely needs a rebuild, or a crate motor. And without an engine shop you can trust, the crate motor could be the way to go.

That said, however, let's see if there's anyone on the forum who can recommend a shop in the D/FW area...

 

Dallas

http://www.citymotorsupply.com

I like this shop. I haven't used them for a rebuild but I know people that have. They spent an hour talking with me about heads and sbc in general even though they knew I wasn't paying customer. Stop by in person and have a talk with them.

 

I am in the process of rebuilding my #'s matching 350, w/original '882 heads. I am using a local builder in my community, that has been in business for >25 years. Using original crank and heads, forged, and screw in studs respectively. Builder says "882 heads good for this motor in that they have screw in studs, 2.02 intakes, 1.60 exhaust, and hardened seats. Original as delivered specs: 225hp at 8.25:1 cp.
Builder guarantees a 290-300 hp engine
Costs as follows:

$1095 rebuild long block: boring, cleaning, assembly of block and heads
$165 deck block to properly seat rebuilt heads
$200 up charge for hp parts
$128 16 new intake and exhaust valves
$8.70 rotor
$22.43 cap
$54.15 spark plug wires
$18.32 spark plugs
$10.37 thermostat
$4.40 carb to intake manifold gasket
$42.50 re-surface flywheel
$30.90 oil pressure switch (very important)
$5.17 pcv valve
$42.48 new motor mounts, originals were poor at best, the rubber looks like bad beef jerky
$300 remove broken studs/bolts and so on
$150. new edlebrook or weiand intake, factory was too pitted to use

Total: $2300 + or - $25.00.

I approached from this angle.
Pros:
The original block is a very good starting point, good heads. The builder guarantees for 1 year. I am not going to lean on it very often. I did not want another piece of iron in the garage. Seasoned.

Cons: Using old stuff, granted it has new internals, bored and so on.
a GM 290hp crate motor is $1649, a good value, but you still need all the small stuff for a rebuilt distributor, wires, good intake, whatever?

In the long run, as other posts have stated, know your builder, get references if in doubt, GM has a good product, but then you have to dispose of the old stuff/sell.

Good luck

 

Just curious, Does the price that he quoted you include removing and installing the block back into the car or are you doing that yourself.?

 

Page 62, Was there a huge difference after the head swap?Did you put on different exhaust manifolds? Headers?Did your carb need jetting after? How about the distributor? Thanks Scott

 

My engine did not run well before the swap. Rough idle, poor low RPM performance. So the heads automatically made a difference. And yes, the car is faster now.

The carb was already "tuned by Lars." But the as previously mentioned, it had issues before, and ran great after. No jetting changes.

A stock distributor should be fine. But ironincally, my mechanical advance was stuck in the full open position -- and yet by some miracle I didn't have any pinging with the new heads

 

Did you change your manifolds? They look like ram horns.Can you smoke your tires with the new heads?

 

I could smoke the tires with the old heads. I could chirp the tires on a 1-2 shift with the old heads. Now I can roll halfway through an intersection, mash the throttle and bark the tires. And I can make the car snap to the left on a 1-2 shift. Very fast when I stomp it.

A desmogged L82 -- tuned by Lars -- is a good engine to start with... Rams horn manifolds are better than most people realize, especially with 2.5" dual pipes.

But note that others who have done a similar head swap have NOT seen performance improvements. Usually due to other factors, such as a non-L82 engine (with a lethargic stock cam) to start with...

 

79 Vetter: If you are wondering the cost from 1979L82, yes I pulled the motor. I am installing a Tremec TKO600. Building a nice driver.

As of today, Saturday the 11th of June, builder called this morning, yes he works Saturdays, 350 w/30 over bore, 9.5:1 hypereutectic w/factory rods, Comp cams 12-210-2 1500-5000 RPM 268/268 adv Duration .454/.454 lift on Intake and exhaust, 110 degreees of seperation, good street characteristics, roller tip rockers, with a dual plane manifold using the factory Q-Jet. The builder is Allis Machine, 414-543-7710, West Allis, WI.

At 4500 RPM I will have 295 HP, even better at 3000 rpm, I will have 360 ft. lbs of torque. This according to the builder, this is not even reaching the potential of this engine. BTW these numbers are using the stock cast iron exhaust manifolds, with headers 320 and 375 respectively from the previously listed rpm #'s.

I need advice. I plan to use a dual exhaust once the motor is put back into the car. I want to use shorty headers of basically the same dimensions of the cast iron exhaust manifolds.

Is there anyone out there who can recommend a set to which I can bolt to the engine then to the dual exhaust system?

 

page62: You are in BIG trouble dood!!!! I am giving you my 100% seal of approval for your car and engine. Get ready for the heat!!!

Dep