Thanks for all the responses. I've already got the u-joints on the flanges. My neighbor helped me with these and yes one was bent, but he heated it up a little and bent it back. The joints now move freely on the flanges. Once I was on my own I installed a u-joint on one of the half shafts with no problems. When I installed the u-joint on the other half shaft I was able to get the clips on but the joint required a lot of pressure to move back and forth.

So then I moved on to the drive shaft. I installed u-joints on each end and they too require a lot of pressure to move back and forth. This is not the result of a needle falling into the cap. The cap will not seat properly if a needle has fallen to the bottom and you can't get the clips in.

As suggested it could be that the yokes on both ends of the drive shaft as well as the one half shaft I worked on are bent just a little. I'm also suspect of the grease loading up on the opposite side from which I was hammering.

I think there is a drive shaft shop nearby that is not too expensive. I may just take it there and be done with it. Sometimes my trying to save a few bucks delays my repairs longer than necessary in the name of doing it myself. I really want to get back on the road. It was breezy and 75 degree here today... great convertible driving weather. I also just received my C5 seats that I want to get installed.

 

Guys I never never press the old u joints out anymore since my son taught me. He literally changes hundreds every year and he uses the torch, cuts the X out and while still hot walks the stuck caps with his air chissel. No force used. He doesn't do vets. He then uses a small flapper wheel and quickly polishes the yoke, uses a flat file to debur and cleans the groove. He then holds the shaft in the vise and after lubing the yoke really well uses a small brass hammer and walks the caps in.
This method solved all my warranty claims over the years with my truck. Where a universal lasted 13 month regularly I got 5 years with this method and sold the truck.
My vet universals are about 14 years old and never had a problem.
I have a very accurate press and have seen joints take up to 12,000 pounds. That has got to bend something.

 

yep,

I use an arbor press. But whatever you do, try not to heat the yokes up when using the torch. That could warp the yokes or even allow them to bend easier when dismantling. Cutting out the Xs with a torch is not a bad idea. But if you use an arbor press properly, everything is supported properly and will not cause anything to bend out of proportion. I also want to stress the "cleanliness theory". You need to clean the surfaces slightly in order to ease in the installation of the new U joints. But make sure that you do not oversand or overgrind on the surfaces. Otherwise you might render the U joint useless by allowing for too much play in the machined surfaces. I have done literally thousands of U joints in the many cars and trucks that I have worked on in the last thirty some years. I have never had one come back due to failure from an improper installation. If a U joint is installed properly, it should not have any binding at all no matter how much grease you pump in to it.

 

Took the shafts to a drive shaft shop. He reinstalled the u-joints with an arbor press. All the joints now move freely with no binding. So, it came down to the way the u-joints were installed. Use a press as others have suggested.