frame on resto
06-18-2005, 11:29 AM
#1
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frame on resto
Would like to start a frame on restoration. Car is driver now. Would like to start with sand blasting frame. Minor surface rust. Need info on what not to sand blast u joints, Ect? What material to repaint frame, leaf spring, what colors, bushings and bolts. What items do not get paint, clear coat after? Is there any info/books on this subject? Thanks David
06-18-2005, 03:35 PM
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Team Owner
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Maybe you might be interested in a National Corvette Restorers Society (NCRS) Technical Information and Judging Manual. You can order one for your year by calling 513-385-8526. (Perhaps you might have to join the NCRS to order their book, but join anyhow.) The NCRS also has a magazine, "The Corvette Restorer." If you call the above number you can also order CD's that have technical articles pertinent to your year C3.
For all your paints and stuff, hit the website of Eastwood.com. They are one of the important suppliers of restorer's paints, etc. Quanta has stencil kits if you're really gung-ho. If you join the NCRS, you'll get Driveline magazine which has a lot of advertisements from people selling the things you need.
......everything that I replace on my car, I paint or plate and I also paint over the plated stuff (exception bumpers). If I'm replacing a new cad plated part, I paint it with cad paint(i.e. the rotor dust shields). For some of my grade 8 cad plated bolts, I just give them a hit of clear paint. Opps. another exception. I don't paint stainless steel. (brakes lines and gas lines).
This week end ...actually minutes from now...I plan to start reinstalling the body and frame of my 68 Convertible. On this car, I supported the body with jacks and supports and dropped the frame. (Didn't lift the body!) Actually I think lifting the body is best. For this car, dropping the frame was the actual best idea. I have a 1970 Coupe I plan to attack next and I will lift the body for that one.
Dropping the frame, instead of lifting the body is a viable approach if you don't have anything but superficial rust(actually corrosion). Also you can do this in a low ceiling garage.
With the frame dropped about 10 inches below the body, I was surprised how much of a bother it was to replace the fuel tank.
For all your paints and stuff, hit the website of Eastwood.com. They are one of the important suppliers of restorer's paints, etc. Quanta has stencil kits if you're really gung-ho. If you join the NCRS, you'll get Driveline magazine which has a lot of advertisements from people selling the things you need.
......everything that I replace on my car, I paint or plate and I also paint over the plated stuff (exception bumpers). If I'm replacing a new cad plated part, I paint it with cad paint(i.e. the rotor dust shields). For some of my grade 8 cad plated bolts, I just give them a hit of clear paint. Opps. another exception. I don't paint stainless steel. (brakes lines and gas lines).
This week end ...actually minutes from now...I plan to start reinstalling the body and frame of my 68 Convertible. On this car, I supported the body with jacks and supports and dropped the frame. (Didn't lift the body!) Actually I think lifting the body is best. For this car, dropping the frame was the actual best idea. I have a 1970 Coupe I plan to attack next and I will lift the body for that one.
Dropping the frame, instead of lifting the body is a viable approach if you don't have anything but superficial rust(actually corrosion). Also you can do this in a low ceiling garage.
With the frame dropped about 10 inches below the body, I was surprised how much of a bother it was to replace the fuel tank.
06-18-2005, 06:01 PM
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Burning Brakes
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I agree with the above post about NCRS if you truly want to restore the car. If you want to re-build the car then there are a million aftermarket parts that exceed and alot of times are cheaper than OEM. It's important to have a plan before you start on one of these cars, there are plenty of other's here that will tell you that as well.