Bleeding rear brakes
Thread Starter
1st Gear
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
Bleeding rear brakes
OK, I'm stuck, and it's not like I haven't done this before because I replaced my calipers with stainless ones, drained the brake lines and converted to DOT-5 fluid about 14 years ago. Here's my problem...
I had to have bearing work done and in the process of removing the old caliper steel brake line I broke it and had to replace it. After reassembling everything I went about bleeding the rear brakes. First I used the bleeding bottle with my wife pumping the brakes. This always worked for me in the past. The fluid ran clear with no bubbles but the brakes were still soft and the brake lite came on when braking. Next I bought a vacuum bleeder and used it with the same result. I've run a quart of new DOT-5 fluid through those brakes and they are still soft and the brake lite is still coming on during moderate of harder braking. I'm at my wit's end!
Anybody got any ideas?
I had to have bearing work done and in the process of removing the old caliper steel brake line I broke it and had to replace it. After reassembling everything I went about bleeding the rear brakes. First I used the bleeding bottle with my wife pumping the brakes. This always worked for me in the past. The fluid ran clear with no bubbles but the brakes were still soft and the brake lite came on when braking. Next I bought a vacuum bleeder and used it with the same result. I've run a quart of new DOT-5 fluid through those brakes and they are still soft and the brake lite is still coming on during moderate of harder braking. I'm at my wit's end!
Anybody got any ideas?
Racer
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
From: Hershey Pa
Bleed all the brakes. Air may have migrated up in the lines. Be sure NOT to let the resevoir go empty while bleeding or you'll have to start all over again.
Good luck
JZ
P.S. Be sure to bleed BOTH bleeders on the calipers, there are 2 on each.
Good luck
JZ
P.S. Be sure to bleed BOTH bleeders on the calipers, there are 2 on each.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Your brake switch has -probably- slipped off to one side while you were bleeding it originally. If so, it needs to be kept centered before you can bleed.
Close all 4 bleeders and stand on the brakes hard several times.
Hopefully the light will stop coming on when you press the pedal.
If not, it is "moved" to one side. I use -dried- (4 separators) compressed air blowing backwards through an open bleeder of the non-bleedable circuit to force the switch piston back on center. The cover has to be off the master cylinder and a rag thrown over it. If you do this, only give the line a few quick shots of air until the switch resets. Don't blow air back through the master cylinder.
When you do get the switch centered (light stays off), bleed one rear & one front at the same time to avoid the switch issue again.
This may not be your problem.... but it is a good candidate.
Close all 4 bleeders and stand on the brakes hard several times.
Hopefully the light will stop coming on when you press the pedal.
If not, it is "moved" to one side. I use -dried- (4 separators) compressed air blowing backwards through an open bleeder of the non-bleedable circuit to force the switch piston back on center. The cover has to be off the master cylinder and a rag thrown over it. If you do this, only give the line a few quick shots of air until the switch resets. Don't blow air back through the master cylinder.
When you do get the switch centered (light stays off), bleed one rear & one front at the same time to avoid the switch issue again.
This may not be your problem.... but it is a good candidate.
Last edited by Tom454; Jun 20, 2005 at 04:08 PM.
Pro
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 520
Likes: 5
From: Front Range
I always thought you should bleed the farthest caliper from the master cylinder first... i.e. right rear, left rear, right front, left front.
also try tapping the calipers and lines with a wrench to encourage bubbles to "keep-a-movin"
tbw
also try tapping the calipers and lines with a wrench to encourage bubbles to "keep-a-movin"
tbw
Instructor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 176
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas NV
I had a similiar problem with my 71 corvette ended up that the the rod coming out of the brake booster was not adjusted the correct length. Good luck hope you get it fixed soon sucks to have spongy brakes. 
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Order is irrelevant
I know the manual and the "old" school says "furthest to closest" but...
Based on "hands on", in the field, real world testing, the order of bleeding has no effect on how good a job you do. I tested this a few years ago for Forum members to settle a debate. I bled one of my Vettes in several different orders, each time removing the fluid from all of the lines & calipers with compressed air. Order had no effect. If you fully understand the function of the hydraulic system, you can bleed your Vette in any order, as long as the M/C is done first.
So... don't get hung up on "order".
I still follow "furthest to closest" just as a matter of habit.
But it ain't no big thing.
Based on "hands on", in the field, real world testing, the order of bleeding has no effect on how good a job you do. I tested this a few years ago for Forum members to settle a debate. I bled one of my Vettes in several different orders, each time removing the fluid from all of the lines & calipers with compressed air. Order had no effect. If you fully understand the function of the hydraulic system, you can bleed your Vette in any order, as long as the M/C is done first.
So... don't get hung up on "order".
I still follow "furthest to closest" just as a matter of habit.
But it ain't no big thing.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 6
From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Originally Posted by Tom454
I know the manual and the "old" school says "furthest to closest" but...
Based on "hands on", in the field, real world testing, the order of bleeding has no effect on how good a job you do. I tested this a few years ago for Forum members to settle a debate. I bled one of my Vettes in several different orders, each time removing the fluid from all of the lines & calipers with compressed air. Order had no effect. If you fully understand the function of the hydraulic system, you can bleed your Vette in any order, as long as the M/C is done first.
So... don't get hung up on "order".
I still follow "furthest to closest" just as a matter of habit.
But it ain't no big thing.
Based on "hands on", in the field, real world testing, the order of bleeding has no effect on how good a job you do. I tested this a few years ago for Forum members to settle a debate. I bled one of my Vettes in several different orders, each time removing the fluid from all of the lines & calipers with compressed air. Order had no effect. If you fully understand the function of the hydraulic system, you can bleed your Vette in any order, as long as the M/C is done first.
So... don't get hung up on "order".
I still follow "furthest to closest" just as a matter of habit.
But it ain't no big thing.
4,3,2,1 PRESSURE BLEED!!!
Dep
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 8,339
Likes: 24
From: I can walk to MA
I gravity bled mine - then they worked but very spongy.
After a few days, I rapped on all the calipers with my rubber
dead-blown hammer to loosen any stuck air bubbles.
Then, I had my son push the pedal while I cracked each bleeder.
Now, they are solid as granite. I bet you have trapped air bubbles.
Note - don't "pump up" the pedal before cracking the bleeder,
as this only aerates the fluid with micro-bubbles of air that then
travel into the tubes and stay there.
After a few days, I rapped on all the calipers with my rubber
dead-blown hammer to loosen any stuck air bubbles.
Then, I had my son push the pedal while I cracked each bleeder.
Now, they are solid as granite. I bet you have trapped air bubbles.
Note - don't "pump up" the pedal before cracking the bleeder,
as this only aerates the fluid with micro-bubbles of air that then
travel into the tubes and stay there.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 769
Likes: 0
From: NorCal 71 Lt-1
Originally Posted by Tom454
I know the manual and the "old" school says "furthest to closest" but...
Based on "hands on", in the field, real world testing, the order of bleeding has no effect on how good a job you do. I tested this a few years ago for Forum members to settle a debate. I bled one of my Vettes in several different orders, each time removing the fluid from all of the lines & calipers with compressed air. Order had no effect. If you fully understand the function of the hydraulic system, you can bleed your Vette in any order, as long as the M/C is done first.
So... don't get hung up on "order".
I still follow "furthest to closest" just as a matter of habit.
But it ain't no big thing.
Based on "hands on", in the field, real world testing, the order of bleeding has no effect on how good a job you do. I tested this a few years ago for Forum members to settle a debate. I bled one of my Vettes in several different orders, each time removing the fluid from all of the lines & calipers with compressed air. Order had no effect. If you fully understand the function of the hydraulic system, you can bleed your Vette in any order, as long as the M/C is done first.
So... don't get hung up on "order".
I still follow "furthest to closest" just as a matter of habit.
But it ain't no big thing.
w/Tom454
Le Mans Master
Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 5,714
Likes: 6
From: Silver City NM
St. Jude Donor '05-'07
Originally Posted by WrenchingIt
Swear to God the worst time I have had with my C3 is bleeding the brakes. The answer? Buy a pressure bleeded, they are like 40 bucks. Best money I spent! 
Tom454 will jump on you for that post, but you're right
Dep
Race Director
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 16,978
Likes: 7
From: In Dreams There Is Truth Ohio
I thought humpin' and jumpin' meant the same thing...
To reiterate what's been said above, I made my own pressure adapter, got the DOT 5 moving on all 4 calipers, then used gravity and a 4LB dead blow hammer...the bleeding order? Doesn't make any difference, remember, the front and rears are on seperate lines.
To reiterate what's been said above, I made my own pressure adapter, got the DOT 5 moving on all 4 calipers, then used gravity and a 4LB dead blow hammer...the bleeding order? Doesn't make any difference, remember, the front and rears are on seperate lines.
