So I have my spreadsheet together for the cost of my rolling chassis buildup:

Vette brakes Robin's reccomendations P/N Price
Grand Touring plus kit w/adj smart struts 360 rear spring 42001M 1050
Front end Super kit 41751 340
Rear: Differential mount 51092 35
Rear: Trailing arm poly bushing kit 41043 60
Shim kit 41044 44
Suspension total: 1529


Power steering component kit 22851 230
Steering gear box (shaft flat or round?) 200
Steering total 430


SS calipers 12125 340
Sport rotor kit w/ pads 11700S 440
SS complete brake line kit 21413 170
Power Booster/Master cylinder combo 11750 170
SS braided brake hoses 11724 90
Brakes total 1210


POR-15 super starter kit 15
POR patch 15
POR-15 Quart size 65
Frame total: 95


Gas tank: new E-Bay 150
High pressureexternal fuel pump – Accel Summit 340
Braided fuel lines – Summit Summit 110
High pressure Fuel filter – Accel Summit 29
High pressure fuel gauge Summit 44
Fuel Total: 673


Suspension total: 1529
Steering total: 430
Brakes total 1210
Fuel Total: 673
Frame total: 95
Rolling Chassis Total: 3937


So I have two questions. Am I missing anything? Secondly, looking at the price of all this stuff, is it worth it to buy a front and rear used C-4 suspension for $1000 less and make it work in the C3? I guess do you really save the $1K after you modify the frame and do all that work.

 

The rear C4 susp. is a reasonable straightforward operation and requires building new mounting ears on the frame and a pinion mount that nolts to the c-beam pad on the C4 differential. The shocks will bolt to the stock C3 loaction, the trailing arm pocket area needs to be modified for the 2 dog bones.

The front however is much more involving, the engine cradle on the C4 holds the suspension parts, that means cutting the C3 frame and welding on new beams that the cradle will bolt to. Look for Sakur's posts, he's done it. It's a lot of fabrication work.

 

Thanks Twin Turbo, That's what I was beginning to think. I might up the budget $600 to get the steeroids setup, the bill keeps getting bigger hehe...

 

it will only continue to get bigger.
i've decided to do the Guldstrand 5-bar rear, as opposed to trying to figure out all the math myself.

 

My comments - having at least replaced or rebuilt all this stuff over the last 3 years:
1 - Forget poly on the trailing arm bushings - go rubber here.
2 - Do you really need a new steering box ?
3 - Sport rotor kit w/pads .... plain rotors with organics work fine and last ($220)
4 - Unless you are running injection - why trhe high pressure fuel pump ?
5 - Spend the extra $50 and get the Quanta tank (even though I restored my orig).
6 - Bend up your own steel fuel lines - dirt cheap and much safer.

That doesn't really cut the total down much, but trims what I would consider overkill.

You might want to add in - front spreader bar, gusset the frame,
more POR15, rebuild trailing arms, Ebrake cables, gas tank sending unit,
exhaust, front bearings, suspension bump-stops, boxes of bolts, and
I'm sure I'm forgetting a few things.

Have fun - it's great when you get close to the finish.

 

Thanks NHVette. I'm putting a 97 LT1 motor into this car. It's freshly redone (4K mi) and has the GM hotcam valvetrain in it. This is why I need the HP pump.

I'm not sure what I'll be able to salvage until I get the rest of the body off the frame. The car came with no motor or front clip. I'm waiting for a transferrable reggie from NYDMV before I really start to put any real work into it. The paperwork was all in order but just being save.

My friend agrees about the brakes, easier to write down the prices than to actually part with the cash though hehe.

 

Yeah! A second job to pay for this and the future items.