1976 Electrical Questions
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 43
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From: bethlehem pa
1976 Electrical Questions
I have had my 76 a little over a year, just broke it out of month ***** for this year I have noticed a few things and need a little help.
1. When I turn the car off the tach. does not drop to "zero", when turning the key on just prior to starting it does drop to zero. Should I worry?
2. The "door ajar" light goes on and off when the doors are closed. I have tried pushing the buttons on the door posts to check them. The buttons don't seem to make the light stay on or off. Suggestions please.
3. I am thinking about installing a battery disconnect, to save on charging the battery when it sits for long periods of time like in the winter. I live in Pa. and only drive the car on nice days. Any tips on which type to buy?
1. When I turn the car off the tach. does not drop to "zero", when turning the key on just prior to starting it does drop to zero. Should I worry?
2. The "door ajar" light goes on and off when the doors are closed. I have tried pushing the buttons on the door posts to check them. The buttons don't seem to make the light stay on or off. Suggestions please.
3. I am thinking about installing a battery disconnect, to save on charging the battery when it sits for long periods of time like in the winter. I live in Pa. and only drive the car on nice days. Any tips on which type to buy?
Racer
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 316
Likes: 0
From: Grand Forks North Dakota
The tach symptoms are normal, at least to my '76 as well. I've seen lots of tachs do that.
The door ajar lights don't run off of the interior light switches, they run off of the switches near the rear of the door, on the car body. Pretty close to the latch striker. It seems totally useless to have these extra switches, and I imagine it would be fairly easy to wire them to the better switches near the front of the doors.
For the battery disconnect I'd look in Jegs or Summit for a real positive on-off switch, and I'd probably just tie it inline right there in the battery box. That way you can just flip the lid and you've got your switch.
Here's a search on summit for the switches, they range quite a bit in price.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...ch.asp&x=0&y=0
The door ajar lights don't run off of the interior light switches, they run off of the switches near the rear of the door, on the car body. Pretty close to the latch striker. It seems totally useless to have these extra switches, and I imagine it would be fairly easy to wire them to the better switches near the front of the doors.
For the battery disconnect I'd look in Jegs or Summit for a real positive on-off switch, and I'd probably just tie it inline right there in the battery box. That way you can just flip the lid and you've got your switch.
Here's a search on summit for the switches, they range quite a bit in price.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...ch.asp&x=0&y=0
Last edited by JustinGJ; Jun 28, 2005 at 06:19 PM.
Thread Starter
Intermediate
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 43
Likes: 0
From: bethlehem pa
Originally Posted by JustinGJ
The tach symptoms are normal, at least to my '76 as well. I've seen lots of tachs do that.
The door ajar lights don't run off of the interior light switches, they run off of the switches near the rear of the door, on the car body. Pretty close to the latch striker. It seems totally useless to have these extra switches, and I imagine it would be fairly easy to wire them to the better switches near the front of the doors.
For the battery disconnect I'd look in Jegs or Summit for a real positive on-off switch, and I'd probably just tie it inline right there in the battery box. That way you can just flip the lid and you've got your switch.
Here's a search on summit for the switches, they range quite a bit in price.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...ch.asp&x=0&y=0
The door ajar lights don't run off of the interior light switches, they run off of the switches near the rear of the door, on the car body. Pretty close to the latch striker. It seems totally useless to have these extra switches, and I imagine it would be fairly easy to wire them to the better switches near the front of the doors.
For the battery disconnect I'd look in Jegs or Summit for a real positive on-off switch, and I'd probably just tie it inline right there in the battery box. That way you can just flip the lid and you've got your switch.
Here's a search on summit for the switches, they range quite a bit in price.
http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...ch.asp&x=0&y=0
Thanks for the info
76Green Lar
