How do you know he doesn't want to turn 8000rpm's? He already said that's what he wants.
I turned over 7200rpm's on a stock bottom ended 350 many times; probably closer to 7500rpm. It did scream; however, it was nothing exotic. The right cam is needed for it to pull that hard. If it breaks, it breaks. I wouldn't lose sleep over it.

 

you sure your tach is accurate?

 

Ok forget the rpm's i just want to make the hp and tq, i don't care where. Now since you all know so much, what do i need to get there?

 

Not any more. That was almost 30 years ago .

The engine was originally a 300hp 350. I changed rods to the chevy pink rods and GM 11:1 pistons. Heads were the .194 with porting and multiangle seats, GM alum high rise intake, DF DP 750 holley, and a Crane hdy cam (about .520 lift 312 duaration), differerent GM valve springs. It was a dog until about 4500rpm, but came on strong above that. When I said it screamed, I wasn't kidding. If I dumped the throttle at lower rpms in first gear, when the rpms came up it was like a turbo was kicking in. Dumping the clutch was like most people experience when they do it on a wet or snow covered road. I worked in a garage and wasn't concerned. It cost me less than $200 (out of pocket) to upgrade it. I had 3 different carbs; 650, 700, and the 750. There is no doubt in my mind that you can feel the difference. The 650 was much more resonsive at lower rpms. With the 750 it would pull longer. I would have pulled over 7500 rpm but the valves would float.
The engine was strong, even when running on less than 8. I blew a head gasket and a 'friend' in his Olds 455 HO blew by me. The next morning I pulled the plugs and water came out of one cylinder. I drained the water, put the spark plug back in, found the friend, and settled the score.

 

Part Man. Part # Retail US (Jegs)

Vic. Jr. Heads Edelbrock $1358
Roller Rockers CC 1105-16 $402
Head Studs ARP 070-134-4001 $113
Pistons SpeedPro PowerForged $400
Crank Scat 4340 $666
Rods Eagle H Beam $433
SFI Balancer PowerBond PB1050-SS $299
Flywheel Pioneer 400 $299
Roller Lifters CC 818-16 $320
Roller Cam solid CC XR280R $239
Oil Pan Moroso $125
Oil Pump Z28 $30
Oil Pump Pickup Moroso $30
Piston Rings Sealed Power Plasma $120
Timing Set Cloyes $50
Victor Jr. Intake Edelbrock $200
Pully Set March $215
Pushrods CC HiTech $150
Springs double CC 929 $132
Valve Covers Alum. Fabricate $450
400 Block GM $250
Machining Boring,decking etc $1000
Main Studs ARP $75
Main Bearing Clevite 77 $40
Rod Bearing Clevite 77 $30
Rear Main Seal Felpro $25
Timing Cover Cloyes $95
Balancer Bolt ARP $26
Carberator Race Demon 825 $860

Total $8432

 

Motorhead,

great parts list...makes me think...
wait I just had my engine rebuilt but I'll think about that for later

also
"I remember when race cars had clutches and girls drove automatics"
is one of the best quotes I've seen on here

trw

 

Insulting you?

 

8000RPM, easy just put a 302 Chevy crank in it! You will only be displacing about 321 cu/in but that sucker will REV! Don't count on having much torque. Put a 350 crank in it and it will run to 7500RPM no problrm and have good torque (377 cu/in.)

 

My 406 made almost 500 hp and torque using a flat top piston, afr 210 heads, single plane intake , demon 750 carb, and a crane roller with 222 dur@ .050 lift. It pretty much dies out after 5600 rpm. With a bigger cam I could definately make bigger numbers, but the engine idles smooth and pulls like a beast at low rpms. I have yet to test it at sea level, but I'm sure it would be in the 11's where I live now.

 

The Dart 215 cc aluminum Pro 1's with optional 2.08/1.625 valve are an excellant choice. I started my 383 project with them. they are probably the best choice for a 406 ci or so with H-roller cams or less. If you go with a sollid roller of over 238 intake duration @.050 and you have the money just get the 227cc and have 2.10 - 2.15 intakes installed.

If your buying some kind of forged crank shaft you might as well buy the stroker 3.875 and make your motor a 421 ci The cost is the a same as a 406 setup.

 

wondering how much h/p that puts to the rear wheels with that parts list ty

 

Why don't you build a mild 400 Comp 292 cam Rpm Eldbrock heads and forged flat pistons h- beam rods and 200 hp nitrous shot . Best of both worlds good sounding , streetable and you get the hp and tqe you want .

 

You could easily do this on a budget if you were careful with your parts selection. The biggest decision you will need to make would be what operating range you want this engine to really work in. I read that you mentions 8,000 rpm but if you spin your engine in that range you won't be making much in the way of torque. If this is for a street car you may want to change your goal to 450 ft lbs and 400 horsepower which should not be hard. Consider a smaller head than people are recommending...something like an Edelbrock RPM aluminum head with a 170 cc runner. This head will make tremendous low speed torque and with the compression you are talking about running it should be able to make the horsepower you are after. With a 355 Edelbrock made 435 with this setup and it was very streetable. Consider you are going to have 51 more cubic inches and WAY more compression and you should have no problem making your goals. As for rods, pistons, it really depends on if you are going to get crazy down the road. You could easily get away with an Eagle SIR rod and Speed Pro piston if you are on a budget or you could buy JE/SRP and Eagle ESP H-beams if you have a little money to spare. I caution you to select a head on the smaller side instead of on the larger side for a street engine unless you are willing to run a camshaft and intake to make it really work...otherwise you are going to lose your bottom end grunt and that is typically what gets you moving.

 

Thanks for the real world advice. What about the 202 heads i have now? I haven't been able to find the specs on them yet though. I do have a little money to spare. Summer's work. I am not afraid of the big cam, and intake, but i do still want the bottom end. Any more thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

 

That is bacially my setup, you will make over 400RWHP and 400RWT if you build that, I have confirmed on a chassis dyno

 

I personally would NOT use your current heads. They are old technology and the development has surpassed them by a long ways. Personally I have had my best experiences with Brodix heads BUT I no experience with the new street heads so I really can't say how the new models would work. The Edelbrock RPM heads are proven, lightweight and actually a really good value plus they are part of a reliable package that was designed to work with one another so you won't end up with a bunch of mismatched parts.

 

I just got a BRAND NEW Brodix parts book today and they have a new head that might be the ticket if you are seriously willing to run a bigger camshaft and intake. The head is called the IK 200 which is a 23 degree aluminum head. It has great flow numbers and flows 253 at 500 on the intake and it flows 261 at 600. Something that you may like is that they are 64 cc. I have obviously never used these heads but they may be worth looking into. Summit has them priced between $999.95 to $1088.39 depending on which valve springs you select. Sounds like a decent performance head for the money.
Part numers worth looking at are:

#1020000
#1021001

Happy Hot Rodding!

 

LOL....I wonder what size motor he would need to safely turn those RPMs and make LOTS of HP???

Dep

 

I think they can be built for a LOT less than that. Just not in 400 CI size.

Dep

 

Hey thanks for all the help. Keep it coming if you've got any more.