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ok to add to the list ryan77 and 69monzaredbigblock
heres the failures...
ryan77
69redmonzabigblock
80texasc3...wiped two and installed a third one (he gets the brass ***** award )
73c34me..wiped one...what did you install the second time?
money pit had a failure on one XE and success with another
steveg75 had two failures
Last edited by bobs77vet; Jun 30, 2005 at 11:21 PM.
XE274H in an SBC here. 10000 miles, so far so good...
Not to hijack, but...
I have the heads & intake off the motor. Obviously all of the oil is drained. Do I have to go through any particular cam break-in when I re-assemble everything?
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by vettenoir
XE274H in an SBC here. 10000 miles, so far so good...
Not to hijack, but...
I have the heads & intake off the motor. Obviously all of the oil is drained. Do I have to go through any particular cam break-in when I re-assemble everything?
Thanks
break in is required to get the new cam and the new lifters mated to each other so that the lifter learns to spin properly.....sounds like you are not changing either of those.....just make sure everything is clean lubed up and the car is set up to start right way....i would definitely prime the oil pump before i started it.
ok to add to the list ryan77 and 69monzaredbigblock
heres the failures...
ryan77
69redmonzabigblock
80texasc3...wiped two and installed a third one (he gets the brass ***** award )
73c34me..wiped one...what did you install the second time?
money pit had a failure on one XE and success with another
steveg75 had two failures
Bob,
I agree that at least one of my failures was due to a bad break-in which is why I went roller on the rebuild.
However, if I install according to Comps instructions, use their lube, and run it at 2000+ for 20+ minutes, I feel that a backyard mechanic should have no problems. The instructions make no mention of 1.3 rockers, EOS, special moly lube. I had a Crane flat tappet before with no problem using their lube, stock rockers, etc.
My point is that the average backyard mechanic should not have to use special techniques for what is supposed to be a easy cam swap if you follow the manufactuers directions. Just my $0.02.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by SteveG75
Bob,
I agree that at least one of my failures was due to a bad break-in which is why I went roller on the rebuild. .....
what do you attribute the other failure to? and thanks for the honesty on the break in...thats something that not many people own up to, instead they blame the product...
revised list
heres the failures...
ryan77
69redmonzabigblock
80texasc3...wiped two and installed a third one (he gets the brass ***** award )
73c34me..wiped one...what did you install the second time?
money pit had a failure on one XE and success with another
steveg75 had two failures,one of which is attributed to bad break in proceedure
just for the record i don't buy the whole XE series is crap line....
Bob: It seems there is a misunderstanding. Not every one of theses cams will fail. There is a greater possibility due to the aggressive lobes. I would imagine a very large percentage of these cams will not fail, including those that were not installed perfectly or broke-in perfectly. There seems to more failures on these cams than on other cams. Failures on Isky, Crane, Lunati, etc seem to almost nonexistent, although they do occur. No one is stating your cam is a piece of crap. I think the XE line makes good power when compared to other cams.
As for keeping track of which cams failed, it's a good idea. However, many members will not posting in this thread. It will takes many months as different members will post in different threads. I think it will certainly be evident that the XE will be on top.
what do you attribute the other failure to? and thanks for the honesty on the break in...thats something that not many people own up to, instead they blame the product...
The break-in failure was an XE274 which is radical enough to require some special procedures (which I didn't know about then since I just read the supplied instructions). BTW, is my bitterness showing?
Prior to that, I had an XE262 which ran fine for 5000 miles. It could have failed at break in and I never noticed (just lashed it up tight as it wore down). Or, it could have been a lubrication problem later. No idea.
Interestingly enough, both failures were on #3. The first was the exhaust, the second was the intake.
I am starting to think that I could have gone one step bigger on my roller. I'll just save that idea for my next project.
From: Arlington Va Current ride 04 vert, previous vettes: 69 vert, 77 resto mod
Originally Posted by mandm1200
There seems to [be] more failures on these cams than on other cams. ........
thats the issue we will see, i started a Poll with no time period for closing it .....after a while we can start a similar one on the other Cam manufactures....Anectdotal stories and theories abound....lets actually see the facts...good or bad
When doing the "above 2000 rpm for the first 20 minutes " deal..you need to vary the rpms...wing it a few times....run it at 2000.....2500...3000 for a few seconds etc...
Don't just set fast idle at 2000 rpm and walk away.
I've seen some tests that demonstrate that at particular rpms there is a distinct pattern to oil flying off crank and rods as well as windage in general. It's VERY possible to starve a particular set of lobes during the break in process by remaining at a constant rpm. That might explain the two failures on #3.
Same thing new car owners manuals say....don't run at a constant speed...vary speeds (rpm) during break in.
I would gladly have added E.O.S, moly lube,Crane Cam break in supplement, zinc and whatever if the instructions that came with the cam said to add it. But it didn't.
I replaced it with the exact same cam. I out-lined my break in on the previous thread. I now have approx. 2k miles and no problems. I use 1.6 ratio rockers. lift at valve is .565" intake .590" exhaust.