New frame/repairing current frame?
So, how much can I expect to pay a shop to lift the body, cut out the rotten sections (just the kickup areas and rear crossmember), and have them weld in new frame rails? I just need a rough estimate here...also, how much would it cost to have the frame coated/rust-proofed? Will this be as effective as simply buying a new frame and basically transferring the rest of my car over to it - i.e., is this a perfectly safe permanent solution? The rest of the frame is really quite solid, so simply having the problem areas replaced and the whole frame rust-proofed seems like a much better option in terms of cost effectiveness...
http://www.corvetteusa.com
For a completely reconditioned 1968 to 1974 corvette frame they say they want between $2,200 and $3,400 (you have to call to get an exact price quote).
http://www.corvetteusa.com
For a completely reconditioned 1968 to 1974 corvette frame they say they want between $2,200 and $3,400 (you have to call to get an exact price quote).
Pulling the body would probably cost 1K for a shop to do. Repairing the frame would probably be another 1K. There are other things that might(probably need to be replaced- rocker channels, birdcage,trailing arms) add another 2K onto that. so thats 4K before you get into all the other things that you'll find need replacing while you are there.
On my 78 I decided to find a good replacement frame. I bought a fairly complete parts car for around 1K USD, took it apart sold off many of its components, made my money back and still have the frame and some spare parts to keep for when I break.
My restoration is probably around the $10K USD right now with another 2-3K to get it on the road and another 2-3K to get it complete.
The Best of Corvette for Corvette Enthusiasts
Anyone have any answers to my original question?
Your original question related to the cost of having someone remove the body from your frame. I think most people in this forum have done this themselves and maybe that's why you have'nt had an answer. I'm sure there are restorers that will do this. If you can write big checks there's going to be no problem.
I can see from you advar (where did this word come from?) you have a big garage. You can remove the frame yourself if you want. Jack up the car so that the wheels are about a foot off of the ground. Now buy a lot of 4X4's, inexpensive 2000 lb bottle jacks from Sears, and build supports to support the body to the ground. Then disconnect the frame and lower the frame from the body. This is what I did. I did this all by myself with no help from anyone. It was a little tedious to unbolt all the stuff to seperate the body from the frame, but nothing particularly difficult. Oh!! I did use three floor jacks in addition to the bottle jacks. I used about 16 feet of 4X4's for all my woodwork.
I have since re-installed my frame to the body. I did this all by myself.
Once you've got your frame out, you can try to repair it or replace it. If you have a rust problem at the kick ups, you may have rust problems in the differential removable crossmember and the front removable crossmember also. You can still buy these parts.
Good Luck!
PS...Not withstanding my favorable comments about dropping the frame from the body, my next project will be to restore my70 BB and I do plan to lift the body in the traditional way for this car. This is because I plan to build a new rolling frame for the car first.
Last edited by 68/70Vette; Jul 3, 2005 at 09:42 PM.
Your original question related to the cost of having someone remove the body from your frame. I think most people in this forum have done this themselves and maybe that's why you have'nt had an answer. I'm sure there are restorers that will do this. If you can write big checks there's going to be no problem.
I can see from you advar (where did this word come from?) you have a big garage. You can remove the frame yourself if you want. Jack up the car so that the wheels are about a foot off of the ground. Now buy a lot of 4X4's, inexpensive 2000 lb bottle jacks from Sears, and build supports to support the body to the ground. Then disconnect the frame and lower the frame from the body. This is what I did. I did this all by myself with no help from anyone. It was a little tedious to unbolt all the stuff to seperate the body from the frame, but nothing particularly difficult. Oh!! I did use three floor jacks in addition to the bottle jacks. I used about 16 feet of 4X4's for all my woodwork.
I have since re-installed my frame to the body. I did this all by myself.
Once you've got your frame out, you can try to repair it or replace it. If you have a rust problem at the kick ups, you may have rust problems in the differential removable crossmember and the front removable crossmember also. You can still buy these parts.
Good Luck!
PS...Not withstanding my favorable comments about dropping the frame from the body, my next project will be to restore my70 BB and I do plan to lift the body in the traditional way for this car. This is because I plan to build a new rolling frame for the car first.
If you are under a time dead line like you have stated, go with the replacement frame. Alot quicker, less hassles.

How would a replacement frame possibly be quicker? Taking the car apart, piece by piece, and transferring everything over to a new frame would be quicker than removing the body, welding in a couple new rails, and replacing the body?
from my perspective, if money weren't an issue, i'd still want to do all the work myself which would mean a new frame cause i couldn't do any patch welding myself on that level. however, if you want it finished, there would be much less hassle and faster turnaround to just leave it in someone else's (trusted) hands. my 2 cents...
Honestly, I don't think you will find a shop that will turn around
a job like that in short order. If you do find one, I'd say that
$4k figure is a good starting point.
For mine, I found a rolling chassis that still needed repairs to be good.
I think you could trust an experienced shop to do these repairs,
but I would still do mine myself.
The end of summer will be here fast. More than anything, you need more time.
A frame swap could be done in less than one week.... if the rocker channels are good. The repairs to the frame will take at least a week after you take the body off. And that is working full time on it too.
A frame swap is much easier and quicker in my opinion. The only option IMO if you want it out this summer.
A frame swap could be done in less than one week.... if the rocker channels are good. The repairs to the frame will take at least a week after you take the body off. And that is working full time on it too.
A frame swap is much easier and quicker in my opinion. The only option IMO if you want it out this summer.
My plan as of right now is to give it to a shop and have them take off the body (I simply don't have the time), and then see how bad the damage is from there. I know for a fact the kick-up areas and rear crossmember are bad and will definitely need replacing. The rest of the frame, as far as I can tell, is in very good shape - very solid and no rust anywhere. I'll have the shop call me when the body's lifted and personally go in to take a look and see the extent of the rot
If it's only as bad as I think it is now, I'll just have them replace what's necessary. If it's worse, I suppose I'll have to pick up a used frame in good condition and do the swap...Thanks for the advice guys
Part of the problem with a frame swap is finding a frame in good condition for a good price...the other part of it is the question of which one is more cost effective...
I would not even attempt doing a body off restification without oxy-acetelene and welder readily available. Yes, I know, you are just swapping the frame. Most guys started their frame off because it just needed this or that and it was easier to just take the body off. After that move, it is finished sometimes several years later. You will fill a can of nuts and bolts that will be rusted beyond reuse. BTW, do you have air tools with an impact wrench? You can bet the rust did not limit itself to just the frame.
What if an illness or injury prevents working for a week or two? I hope you re-think your goal to be certain you can achieve it successfully. If Labor day comes and your car is still in pieces, is there a backup plan with safe storage? I wish I could cheer you on with encouragement but in good conscience believe time will work against you. This is just my humble opinion and hope whatever you choose works for you.
I do not see hiring a shop to do the work as an option. Too many things can go wrong and your car is in their shop. Need I say more.
i do not think you will find anyone to give you a firm price because there are too many unknowns. if you find someone willing to do this in the time frame you require either have a big check book or run away because it will be very expensive or they will not do it properly and you will pay more in the long run or you may end up with both large bill and short cuts. if you are capable do the work yourself and take your time.





















