Front End Rebuild Safety
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Front End Rebuild Safety
I've seen posts that say the springs will explode unless they are compressed or held in place with chains and I've seen posts saying that it's simply a matter of doing it slowly. I think it was Lars that posted a procedure for removing the spring and A-arms.
I also don't have any impact tools such as an air hammer...I've used a pickle fork and have a nice 16lb half-sledge that should do the trick (including putting holes in the garage floor).
It also looks like I will need a press to get the bushings installed, but perhaps with care they can be tapped in with a hammer.
I rebuilt my tranny by myself, and nearly did the rear end (but didn't get the shim pack so I failed), and I've rebuit several engines before including the one that's on an engine stand now. But, I've never done anything more than replace a tie-rod. My A-arm bushings are half-gone...I can see through one of them where half-the material has cracked away. I can't let it be. I either need to pull them now while the engine is out so it's easier, or take it to a shop after I've finished the engine and engine compartment R&R.
Any suggestions?
I also don't have any impact tools such as an air hammer...I've used a pickle fork and have a nice 16lb half-sledge that should do the trick (including putting holes in the garage floor).
It also looks like I will need a press to get the bushings installed, but perhaps with care they can be tapped in with a hammer.
I rebuilt my tranny by myself, and nearly did the rear end (but didn't get the shim pack so I failed), and I've rebuit several engines before including the one that's on an engine stand now. But, I've never done anything more than replace a tie-rod. My A-arm bushings are half-gone...I can see through one of them where half-the material has cracked away. I can't let it be. I either need to pull them now while the engine is out so it's easier, or take it to a shop after I've finished the engine and engine compartment R&R.
Any suggestions?
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
If you can do all the other work mentioned, you can certainly tackle the front end. It's simply a matter of bolting & unbolting everything. I didn't have much problems with the springs. I did use a chain running inside the spring and connected with a few bolts after I wrapped it around the frame.
I took it slowly and the springs eventually fell out. What you don't want to do is rapidly drops the lower CA to get the spring out. There's a lot of pressure in those springs.
To get the sleeves of the bushings out, I used this Control Arm Bushing kit I bought from JC Whitney(I think)
I took it slowly and the springs eventually fell out. What you don't want to do is rapidly drops the lower CA to get the spring out. There's a lot of pressure in those springs.
To get the sleeves of the bushings out, I used this Control Arm Bushing kit I bought from JC Whitney(I think)
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Originally Posted by Jughead
To get the sleeves of the bushings out, I used this Control Arm Bushing kit I bought from JC Whitney(I think)
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 12,706
Likes: 329
From: Scottsdale Arizona
Originally Posted by Jughead
To get the sleeves of the bushings out, I used this Control Arm Bushing kit I bought from JC Whitney(I think)
Rockn,
Please let us know how this works out. I've got all of the parts but have been doing other things first.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 2,473
Likes: 10
From: New Paltz, New York USA
Yes, Lars did a paper on the front end rebuild. I used it to do my whole front end rebuild and it worked out great. Once you get into it you will see that its not such a big deal. 
Team Owner
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 65,492
Likes: 230
From: Orange Park Florida
RR, I"m sure Lars paper covers everything, but the simplest thing I know to keep that spring from taking your head off, and they WILL, as nearly happened to a buddy decades ago, is to chain or good stout rope tie through one coil and the lower controll arm leg, short leash so to speak....
IF that thing comes out under goodly tension it's amazing the bounce it can have makes Tony the Tiger look tame.....
GENE
IF that thing comes out under goodly tension it's amazing the bounce it can have makes Tony the Tiger look tame.....
GENE
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Thanks for the replies. I printed out Lars paper and will be following it as I go. I'm thinking about starting on it today, at least clearing the area and getting the car jacked up. I need to get some more stands, cause the two that I have are already holding the rear up...I wish the scientists would hurry up and build my gravity nullifier or hire me to build one...sure would come in handy, though I guess the waste products from such a device may be a bit toxic.
Yeah, I'll keep you posted...perhaps ammend Lars paper. I see a problem with Lars paper already. He lists bandaids, but no neosporin...that's like having a socket wrench but no sockets.
Yeah, I'll keep you posted...perhaps ammend Lars paper. I see a problem with Lars paper already. He lists bandaids, but no neosporin...that's like having a socket wrench but no sockets.
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Drifting
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,583
Likes: 5
From: Richardson Tx.
I used the Lars method yesterday and the springs came out really easily..No compressor needed at all. I didn't even use a chain to hold it in (as some recommend). As you SLOWLY lower the floor jack under the lower control arm the tension in the spring disappears--no danger at all this way.
Instructor
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
From: parsippany nj
I recently completed a total front suspension rebuild on my '64 vette. My son helped me and we used a spring compressor to compress the spring before we removed it. I have to admit, we did use some air tools to cut off bolts, etc. A sledge hammer and a pickle fork do well for the ball joints. I had a local shop press the new bushings in the control arms, as I heard it was a bitch to do. I bought the rubber bushings as opposed to the poly
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
It seems some factory springs are shorter than others. I used a floor jack and slowly lowered the control arm. No problem in my case. All pressure was off the spring and I pulled it out.
The bushings are a pain to take out and put back in, especially the lower bushings which are longer. I used a pickle fork on one side to break the ball joints free. In the meantime I picked up a $6 tie rod puller. I used that on the other ball joints. What a difference. The tie rod puller broke them free in no time. Remember to only loosen the balljoint nuts when breaking them free. The coil spring is still under pressure at this point.
The bushings are a pain to take out and put back in, especially the lower bushings which are longer. I used a pickle fork on one side to break the ball joints free. In the meantime I picked up a $6 tie rod puller. I used that on the other ball joints. What a difference. The tie rod puller broke them free in no time. Remember to only loosen the balljoint nuts when breaking them free. The coil spring is still under pressure at this point.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Thanks for the replies...Happy Fourth!
It looks like a coil spring compressor isn't necessary, but may be safer...I looked at the JCWitney site and found this:
which can be found here for $37.99:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
The upper control arm bushing kit is indeed avaible at JCWhitney for $104.99 here:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
I also noticed a 2-piece ball joint and tie-rod removal tools:
for $17.99 here:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
But, there is also a 5-piece kit:
for $119.99 here:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
Has anyone used the 2-piece kit and found those two to be all that they need? I'd rather not pay the extra $100 if I don't need it.
The spring compressor for $38 would be fair for safety. I do see how the $105 bushing kit will pay for itself with just one application though.
So, with the $18 2-piece tie-rod/ball joint puller the total for special tools comes to $161. The Van Steel poly kit for $236 and bumper kit for $62 brings the parts to $298. Looks like a do-it-yourself front-end R&R will cost $459 plus add another $40 for paint & shipping and the total will be somewhere around $500. Does this sound right?
Has anyone paid a shop to do the job? What was the cost?
It looks like a coil spring compressor isn't necessary, but may be safer...I looked at the JCWitney site and found this:
which can be found here for $37.99:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
The upper control arm bushing kit is indeed avaible at JCWhitney for $104.99 here:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
I also noticed a 2-piece ball joint and tie-rod removal tools:
for $17.99 here:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
But, there is also a 5-piece kit:
for $119.99 here:
http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...003587/c-10101
Has anyone used the 2-piece kit and found those two to be all that they need? I'd rather not pay the extra $100 if I don't need it.
The spring compressor for $38 would be fair for safety. I do see how the $105 bushing kit will pay for itself with just one application though.
So, with the $18 2-piece tie-rod/ball joint puller the total for special tools comes to $161. The Van Steel poly kit for $236 and bumper kit for $62 brings the parts to $298. Looks like a do-it-yourself front-end R&R will cost $459 plus add another $40 for paint & shipping and the total will be somewhere around $500. Does this sound right?
Has anyone paid a shop to do the job? What was the cost?
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 4,883
Likes: 11
From: North Easton Mass
You can also rent (for free) a lot of tools at places like AutoZone. You give them a deposit covering the cost of the tool and you get the deposit back when you bring the tool back. If you are only rebuilding one front end, how many times are you going to need that spring compressor?
Rick B.
Rick B.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 2,672
Likes: 1
From: New Cumberland PA
The only problem I ran into with Autozone and renting tools is that my local store doesn't have a lot of the tools the show on their web site. I was going to rent a piston ring compressor, they didn't rent that at the local store. The parts counter guy told me to buy it and when done to return it for a refund. I don't believe in buying something and then returnig it without a reason.
Senior Member since 1492
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 87,936
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From: Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean people aren't out to get me...
St. Jude Donor '09
I remember when I was doing mine. I posted a thread about how much it would cost in labor to replace everything I did. The result was a range between $500-$900 in labor. Plus I sand blaster and coated everything with POR-15. Wonder how much additional that would cost me? 
The way I look at it is that even though I'm buying the tools, and some I may only use once, no one else is touching my Vette and I can screw up a job as well as they.
Check out Harbor Freight too. I recently bought the lower 2 separators/removers you have pictured above from them after Cali,68L-79 posted a few pics last year of how quickly he could separate the ball joint from the spindle. They were much cheaper too, less than $20ea.
The way I look at it is that even though I'm buying the tools, and some I may only use once, no one else is touching my Vette and I can screw up a job as well as they.
Check out Harbor Freight too. I recently bought the lower 2 separators/removers you have pictured above from them after Cali,68L-79 posted a few pics last year of how quickly he could separate the ball joint from the spindle. They were much cheaper too, less than $20ea.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Thanks Blair Winch Project...I will definitely check on borrowing the tools...there's both a Kragen and Autozone nearby and one or the other will have what I need.
Thanks again Jughead. I'm totally with you on keeping other people away from your car. I've never had a totally good experience from taking my car to a shop...even if it's just to get tires the car always seems to come back with something damaged that wasn't damaged before...parts tend to break more often, etc. Now I even take my wheels off and cart them down to the shops for new tires or repairs. A corvette only shop did my rear suspension rebuild and afterwards my emergency brake wouldn't work when it was excellent before I broke a spindle which required the rebuild and locked the rear wheels at 25MPH. Now, I'd be lucky if the car stopped a mile down the road if my brakes ever failed.
Yeah, there is a local Harbor Freight store, but the tools that I looked at were more expensive than the Kragen next door, and they didn't have some of the tools, only the most common. I might stop in and check with them since it's near the Kragen that I go to.
Thanks again Jughead. I'm totally with you on keeping other people away from your car. I've never had a totally good experience from taking my car to a shop...even if it's just to get tires the car always seems to come back with something damaged that wasn't damaged before...parts tend to break more often, etc. Now I even take my wheels off and cart them down to the shops for new tires or repairs. A corvette only shop did my rear suspension rebuild and afterwards my emergency brake wouldn't work when it was excellent before I broke a spindle which required the rebuild and locked the rear wheels at 25MPH. Now, I'd be lucky if the car stopped a mile down the road if my brakes ever failed.
Yeah, there is a local Harbor Freight store, but the tools that I looked at were more expensive than the Kragen next door, and they didn't have some of the tools, only the most common. I might stop in and check with them since it's near the Kragen that I go to.
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,469
Likes: 6
From: 68 427 4.11s Roadster
I borrowed a spring compression "Tool" that another guy had already made. 2 steel plates with a threaded rod. It looks like a crude version of that $30 tool. It mostly lets you compress the spring to remove it. I did it that way so don't really know if needed, it is safer though.
The big tip is the A-arm bushing removal. I've done this on too many cars and just about every method. I found placing the arm in a vice to hold it with a large pipe wrench on the bushing flange to work best. You just "unscrew" it.
It does require a pretty big pipe wrench though. Its faster and easier than the factory special tool method. The only thing ruined is the barked up junk bushing.
The bushing can be pressed in with a "bolt" tool or possibly on the shaft itself. They just need to be pulled in. If pressed in make sure you don't press across the arm or it can get squeezed in.
The big tip is the A-arm bushing removal. I've done this on too many cars and just about every method. I found placing the arm in a vice to hold it with a large pipe wrench on the bushing flange to work best. You just "unscrew" it.
It does require a pretty big pipe wrench though. Its faster and easier than the factory special tool method. The only thing ruined is the barked up junk bushing.
The bushing can be pressed in with a "bolt" tool or possibly on the shaft itself. They just need to be pulled in. If pressed in make sure you don't press across the arm or it can get squeezed in.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Just ordered the poly rebuild kit from Van Steel by calling 800-418-5397 so that I could get the free shipping for corvette members...if you order online you don't get the free shipping. I was told that the kit will arrive the next day! Excellent service. I'll let you know what they look like when they get here.
I haven't picked up any tools yet, but Harbor Freight has what looks like a safer and easier to use spring compressor which can be used even without removing the shock absorber:
which can be purchased for $11.99 here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3980
The only bushing kit is the hammer type, and although they did have the press for ball joints, they did not have the extra bits for bushings. So, it looks like I'll be ordering the JCWhiney 2-piece kit and the control arm bushing kit. I will be getting the spring compressor from Harbor Freight just to be safe. After I've done a couple then I may see how it can be done without the compressor, but I'd rather fly with a net until the circus hires me.
I haven't picked up any tools yet, but Harbor Freight has what looks like a safer and easier to use spring compressor which can be used even without removing the shock absorber:
which can be purchased for $11.99 here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...temnumber=3980
The only bushing kit is the hammer type, and although they did have the press for ball joints, they did not have the extra bits for bushings. So, it looks like I'll be ordering the JCWhiney 2-piece kit and the control arm bushing kit. I will be getting the spring compressor from Harbor Freight just to be safe. After I've done a couple then I may see how it can be done without the compressor, but I'd rather fly with a net until the circus hires me.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 3,407
Likes: 2
From: Carmichael CA
Update on the Harbor Freight coil compressor...it will not work...they are only usefull if the control arms can be removed as a unit from the car, and I don't see how that is possible on a vette without first removing the spring...catch 22, so it's going back today.
I'll just order the spring compressor from JCWhitney.
I'll just order the spring compressor from JCWhitney.
