Mallory Unilite?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Mallory Unilite?
Does anybody know the trick to taking them apart and setting the limit on mech advance?
It's the vaccuum advance also unit and I have been very happy with it. In 14 years I've only had one module go bad. What happened to me is I took it to Mallory and dropped it off to get recourved for 16 degrees total advance and the advance starting at 1500 all in by 3000 rpm. When I took it to them it had 22 degrees all in at 3200.
It had a OK tag on it tested blah blah blah. I'm sure that I got mine back because not very many people have poly gears. Anyway it has @26 degrees not the 16 I ask for. So I can't run my 16-18 degrees initial and end up with 32-34 degrees max.
I really can't see how to open it up
I don't have time to get it back to them before my 1000 some mile trip.
TIA
It's the vaccuum advance also unit and I have been very happy with it. In 14 years I've only had one module go bad. What happened to me is I took it to Mallory and dropped it off to get recourved for 16 degrees total advance and the advance starting at 1500 all in by 3000 rpm. When I took it to them it had 22 degrees all in at 3200.
It had a OK tag on it tested blah blah blah. I'm sure that I got mine back because not very many people have poly gears. Anyway it has @26 degrees not the 16 I ask for. So I can't run my 16-18 degrees initial and end up with 32-34 degrees max.
I really can't see how to open it up
I don't have time to get it back to them before my 1000 some mile trip.TIA
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
George I had nothing but problems with my 2 malory distributors, weight pins comming out, bushing wearing and got nowhere with mallory on parts. I ended up fixing the advance solid, no advance and running a msd timing module. I also run a voltage supressor for the unilite pickup.
This doesn't help with opening it up and I forget.
You do have to remove the side clips, they hold the plate for the bickup, once the clips have been remove the advance mechanism is exposed.
I also drill holes in the cap to prevent the air from ionizing inside the small cap.
This doesn't help with opening it up and I forget.
You do have to remove the side clips, they hold the plate for the bickup, once the clips have been remove the advance mechanism is exposed.
I also drill holes in the cap to prevent the air from ionizing inside the small cap.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 5,727
Likes: 38
From: Fremont CA
Depending on the type of distributor maybe I can help you. The older type of Unilites should have 2 horizontal screws holding the points plate (Unilite trigger plate) and you loosen them and remove the plate to access the mechanical advance. You should have a plastic key (as I remember they are red plastic) the key will have several steps with the amount of degrees of advance allowed at each step. The stops are pretty self evident on how to set them with the key. Here is a link to the Mr Gasket Web site with exploded view of components: http://go.mrgasket.com/pdf/Distributors.pdf
Drifting
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1,259
Likes: 7
From: Ontario
I did not like my one year old Mallory HEI. I found the shaft had a lot of end play and also side play. The timing was not consitent. I moved the Mallory pickup over to my old stock unit and was able to consitently dial in the curve that I wanted.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
LT1 - I couldn't figure out from the PDF how to take it off. I also don't have any Horz. screws to remove the Modual base plate. I'm just going to call them tomorrow and see if they can get me in and drive the 30 miles down to Mallory Mr. Gasket again and get it straightened out.
Summit is also just 10 minutes from my house and I was looking at the new Crane dist. with programible advance courves
My motor really does like the 16-18 initial advance. I get the smoothest idle and highest vacuum readings. Which is right around 13 inches. Which is pretty good for a 242/248 110 lc with over .620 lift with my 1.65/1.60 ratio rockers
Summit is also just 10 minutes from my house and I was looking at the new Crane dist. with programible advance courves
My motor really does like the 16-18 initial advance. I get the smoothest idle and highest vacuum readings. Which is right around 13 inches. Which is pretty good for a 242/248 110 lc with over .620 lift with my 1.65/1.60 ratio rockers
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
Likes: 12
From: Waterloo ontario Canada
My really big complaint was also the advance curve. It wouldn't return to zero or what ever the base timing was set at. It would stick in the advanced position and screw up starting. The electronic curve from MSD was alot more consistent.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
Likes: 173
From: Clayton NC
The two straps that hold the cap on. Loosen the nuts, do not take them completely off. Move the cap and the rotor out of the way. Now since you have those two nuts loose lift the breaker plate and led out of the way. Once you have that out you will see two 10 TORX headed screws. If you loosen them you can shorten or lengthen your curve. Remember once you do this you will have to reset you initial. I had mine set at 10 initial with 36 at 2800 that was how it came out of the box. When I went to the Lars DC event we bumped it up to 20 intial and shortened the curve to again have 36 at 2800 or so.. Once it got hotter down here in Carolina I had to lengthen the curve and back some intial out of it... I'm now running 16 initial 36 at 2800... Hope this helps.. Dave...
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Instructor
Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 153
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From: Monroe MI
First of all you dont have a Unilite distributor . . . You have a Uni-Junk distributor. The easiest way to fix your advance problem is to throw that thing in the deepest water you can find and buy an MSD or other equivalent. I had a Uni-Junk in my 396 Chevelle and blew out the original module, replaced it with a new $80 module and blew that one out. After calling Mallory and bitching them out their response was "Oh you need the $35 supressor" or some crap that will stop this from happening again. Gee why not just make them so they dont blow out modules and we wont have to buy the $35 do hickey!
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Originally Posted by 69396Chevy
First of all you dont have a Unilite distributor . . . You have a Uni-Junk distributor. The easiest way to fix your advance problem is to throw that thing in the deepest water you can find and buy an MSD or other equivalent. I had a Uni-Junk in my 396 Chevelle and blew out the original module, replaced it with a new $80 module and blew that one out. After calling Mallory and bitching them out their response was "Oh you need the $35 supressor" or some crap that will stop this from happening again. Gee why not just make them so they dont blow out modules and we wont have to buy the $35 do hickey!
I said in my first statement that it's been very faithful for 14 years and in and out of many motors. It does say right in the directions that it requires a "Ballast Resistor" to cut the voltage. I've only had one modual go bad in all this time and it was a heat soak problem. I originally bought the Unilight because My HEI wasn't up to sparking right at over 7000 rpm and my MSD pro was the big cap type and was too big.
Race Director
Joined: Dec 1999
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Likes: 9
I never had probs w/ my unilite either, it works flawlessly. (I have it because it has a small cap, can't use anything larger)
To adjust the advance you need the degree key, mine is black and I think you can buy a replacement key from Mallory.
To adjust the advance you need the degree key, mine is black and I think you can buy a replacement key from Mallory.
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 21,953
Likes: 1,445
From: Reno Nevada
2024 C3 of the Year Finalist- Modified
Originally Posted by norvalwilhelm
I also drill holes in the cap to prevent the air from ionizing inside the small cap.
How big of a hole do I need to drill?
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 2,429
Likes: 14
From: CA
Originally Posted by 69396Chevy
First of all you dont have a Unilite distributor . . . You have a Uni-Junk distributor. The easiest way to fix your advance problem is to throw that thing in the deepest water you can find and buy an MSD or other equivalent. I had a Uni-Junk in my 396 Chevelle and blew out the original module, replaced it with a new $80 module and blew that one out. After calling Mallory and bitching them out their response was "Oh you need the $35 supressor" or some crap that will stop this from happening again. Gee why not just make them so they dont blow out modules and we wont have to buy the $35 do hickey!
I agree about the advance mechanisums - not the greatest. On a Comp 9000, once you expose the mech advance, there are 2 tabs you bend to adjust the total advance. You can bend both tabs all the way in to lock it out. After you do that, a spot weld on each one would make it last.
If you have a comp 9000, the screws are hidden below 2 rubber caps on the plastic cover below the rotor.
Very happy with my Mallory
...just make sure you have good frame/motor grounds.
Race Director
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 11,593
Likes: 173
From: Clayton NC
Originally Posted by 69396Chevy
First of all you dont have a Unilite distributor . . . You have a Uni-Junk distributor. The easiest way to fix your advance problem is to throw that thing in the deepest water you can find and buy an MSD or other equivalent. I had a Uni-Junk in my 396 Chevelle and blew out the original module, replaced it with a new $80 module and blew that one out. After calling Mallory and bitching them out their response was "Oh you need the $35 supressor" or some crap that will stop this from happening again. Gee why not just make them so they dont blow out modules and we wont have to buy the $35 do hickey!
Dave...
