Front wheel bearings... How often do you adjust???
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,711
Likes: 43
From: San Antonio TX
There is no normal wear in tapered roller bearings. If there is, then you have to replace the bearing and race. So, unless you disassemble the hub to pack the bearings or replace them, once they are set they will stay that way.
Race Director
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 11,872
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From: Waterloo ontario Canada
Originally Posted by gerry72
There is no normal wear in tapered roller bearings. If there is, then you have to replace the bearing and race. So, unless you disassemble the hub to pack the bearings or replace them, once they are set they will stay that way.
I agree. If you find they move once set something is wearing and should be replaced. This is not normal.
Race Director
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: San Diego - Deep Within The State of CONFUSION!
Originally Posted by CGGorman
So...every 500 miles is a little too often, huh?
Adding items to winter list...
Adding items to winter list...
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,216
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From: Smile, it's just the internet.
Originally Posted by SanDiegoPaul
That is a complete and utter waste of time. Sorry.
Sounds like my bearings and/or spindles are breaking down. Are the spindles case hardened? Hardened at all?
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Race Director
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Originally Posted by CGGorman
No, you misunderstood. I set them 500 miles aog because they were wobbly and causing severe vibration at highway speeds. Driving this weekend, I noticed they were starting to wobble again.
Sounds like my bearings and/or spindles are breaking down. Are the spindles case hardened? Hardened at all?
Sounds like my bearings and/or spindles are breaking down. Are the spindles case hardened? Hardened at all?
Rich
Safety Car
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,725
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From: Minnesota
Originally Posted by CGGorman
Sounds like my bearings and/or spindles are breaking down. Are the spindles case hardened? Hardened at all?
Thread Starter
Team Owner
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 20,216
Likes: 4
From: Smile, it's just the internet.
I followed the procedure in the chassis manual...I took out the bearings and cleaned them real good since the old grease was...well...OLD. The races and spindles looked fine, but honestly, I didn't look that close. After a good cleaning and drying, I repacked them with synthetic axle bearing grease rated for disc brakes. Packed by hand until grease bulged out of all the gaps. Reinstalled and torqued to 45 in-lbs while spinning the wheels. Backed off the nut until I could get a cotter pin installed (NO back-off needed on one side, and less than 1/8 turn on the other side). After adjustment, they spun smooth and quiet and the ride was vibration-free.
I noticed this weekend that I have a similar (same?) vibration beginning and immediately suspected the bearings again. I haven't checked them yet, but I thought I'd ask what others consider normal adjustment frequency. I've got my answer....
Before the last adjustment, I could wobble the whole wheel on the spindle diagonally about 3/16"...LOTS of play. Maybe they just need re-seated or something. I'll pull it apart this weekend and have a look.
I noticed this weekend that I have a similar (same?) vibration beginning and immediately suspected the bearings again. I haven't checked them yet, but I thought I'd ask what others consider normal adjustment frequency. I've got my answer....
Before the last adjustment, I could wobble the whole wheel on the spindle diagonally about 3/16"...LOTS of play. Maybe they just need re-seated or something. I'll pull it apart this weekend and have a look.
Safety Car
Joined: Aug 2000
Posts: 3,711
Likes: 43
From: San Antonio TX
Ah, it may be your technique. You may have overheated the bearings from them being too tight and brinelled the bearing or spun the race. You need to pull the hub and carefully inspect the bearings and races.
Pro
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 520
Likes: 5
From: Front Range
Is 45 in-lbs what the manual says? That's the lowest preload I've seen before... I've seen specs for 6 ft/lbs, 12 ft/lbs...
If you've gone to the trouble of removing the hubs, why not just replace the bearings while you're in there? Autozone or Napa should have the bearings and seals in stock.
good luck
the blone weasel
If you've gone to the trouble of removing the hubs, why not just replace the bearings while you're in there? Autozone or Napa should have the bearings and seals in stock.
good luck
the blone weasel
Pro
Joined: Nov 1999
Posts: 520
Likes: 5
From: Front Range
Check this:
http://www.hotrodders.com/t57071.htm...=wheel+bearing
Personally, I think regardless of what the manual says, you're under-torquing the nuts. If they're old bearings, chances are they have a little more play and need to be set a little more forcefully. But you should *always* back the nut off before setting the pin.
Sometimes you have to just "feel" it. The nut should be just at the point where it's about to come loose; it's definitely not tightly torqued on there.
Also... bearing greasers are like $4, they provide a much cleaner and neater method of packing bearings.
cheers
the blonde weasel
http://www.hotrodders.com/t57071.htm...=wheel+bearing
Personally, I think regardless of what the manual says, you're under-torquing the nuts. If they're old bearings, chances are they have a little more play and need to be set a little more forcefully. But you should *always* back the nut off before setting the pin.
Sometimes you have to just "feel" it. The nut should be just at the point where it's about to come loose; it's definitely not tightly torqued on there.
Also... bearing greasers are like $4, they provide a much cleaner and neater method of packing bearings.
cheers
the blonde weasel
