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VBP - Complete Front and Rear Composite System

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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 10:21 AM
  #1  
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Default VBP - Complete Front and Rear Composite System

Who's got them?

Are the work the extra $$$ ?

Thought & Opinions?
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 10:43 AM
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I've got the Performance Plus system. Night and day difference in handling... Worth the $$ ?? I'd say it's a pretty well spent 2K if you enjoy driving around curves in addition to straight lines.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 11:03 AM
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Wouldn't it be mandatory to get the low-profile tires on some 17" wheels?

Or would the regular 15" rally's work just as well?
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 11:06 AM
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Mandatory? no.
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 12:05 PM
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I now have both their front and rear composite springs. Would do it again.
I just replaced the rear TRW with the VB spring and it made a world of difference. I thought the rear bounce was the fault of the shocks, but with just the spring change it feels like a different car
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Old Jul 7, 2005 | 01:43 PM
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I have the full VB setup front and rear except for TRW rear spring.

Is it worth it? Depends on you and your use.

For cruising, a rebuilt front suspension with new OE rate front springs and decent shocks will treat you right. Out back, rebuild with a low rate VB or TRW spring and proper shocks and you'll be happy. A stock front bar with no rear bar is appropriate.
15" Goodrich T/As around 245/60/15 will provide an economical footprint.

If you are a more aggressive driver, the VB front spring will allow height adjustment and rate adjustment with a slight weight savings. Add the spreader bar for better control. Front bar size = 1 1/8"
In the rear, a higher rate composite from VB or TRW (maybe the VB dual mount) with good shocks and VB smart struts will work well. Rear bar not larger than 5/8".
Go to 17" Bridgestones in 255/50/17 for good grip.

In either case, replace all bushings and tie rods first for good alignment. Adjust or rebuild steering box. Replace idler arm. Rebuild power steering.

A lot or work and $ but this will transform your Vette to better than new performance.
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Old Jul 9, 2005 | 09:32 PM
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I have front & rear in my 73. Honestly I can't tell the difference in normal driving. But, I had new/ fresh original type equip. w/ ploly bushings etc. The adjustable ride height & spring rate is nice though...
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Old Jul 11, 2005 | 02:37 AM
  #8  
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From: Hoosier
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Originally Posted by flynhi
I have the full VB setup front and rear except for TRW rear spring.

Is it worth it? Depends on you and your use.

For cruising, a rebuilt front suspension with new OE rate front springs and decent shocks will treat you right. Out back, rebuild with a low rate VB or TRW spring and proper shocks and you'll be happy. A stock front bar with no rear bar is appropriate.
15" Goodrich T/As around 245/60/15 will provide an economical footprint.

If you are a more aggressive driver, the VB front spring will allow height adjustment and rate adjustment with a slight weight savings. Add the spreader bar for better control. Front bar size = 1 1/8"
In the rear, a higher rate composite from VB or TRW (maybe the VB dual mount) with good shocks and VB smart struts will work well. Rear bar not larger than 5/8".
Go to 17" Bridgestones in 255/50/17 for good grip.

In either case, replace all bushings and tie rods first for good alignment. Adjust or rebuild steering box. Replace idler arm. Rebuild power steering.

A lot or work and $ but this will transform your Vette to better than new performance.
Wow.....I just finished all of that. Now waiting to get into the wheel allignment shop.
Reply
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Old Jul 17, 2005 | 10:48 PM
  #9  
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From: McKinney TX
Default VBP Suspension

I have the VBP Street and Strip setup. This system has heavy duty sway bars front and rear. HD shocks on all four and Composite monoleaf spring in rear. The car is a complete rebuild from frame up. Thus it has all new bushings in a-frames and trailing arms, new bearings, all new steering componenets, etc. The car has the 385 HP Fast Burn engine. Even though I know better than to take a passenger car on an Oval Track (NASCAR type cars have very big beefy front spindles and a stock passenger car has a ver tiny spindle). You put a tremendous load on the right front spindle in a corner and the oil runs away from the pickup. BUT I couldn't resist just a few runs at Texas Motor Speedway just to find out how fast I could go. I still have the stock 3.08 rear gear so acceleration was hampered. I could get up to 130 MPH before slowing for the corner and could go around the corners at around 100 MPH. The car stuck like glue. The suspension was just terrific. There was no push and no loose. The car went around the corner like it was on a rail.
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Old Jul 18, 2005 | 12:33 AM
  #10  
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From: Dallas County Texas
Default One of the best of the big mods I've done so far...

Whole system, although done in parts, but with the 1.25" front and 0.875" rear bars. Still with the original 15x8 steel ralley wheels with Michelin Pilots. My PS is currently disengaged because of some nasty leaks not long after most of it was rebuilt (I think it's just the big reservoir seal which should be easily enough overcome...)

Next step for me in that department is some 17" or 18" Y rated things to go along with my GV's new capabilities. (Assuming this stupid engine is fixable.)

I have mine set near maximum for the terrible roads I go on all the time and it's pretty harsh. I'd like some different shocks, and have played with a few, but nothing seriously enough.

Be aware you lose some maximum turning with the front kit - although someone in a recent thread found out how to correct that. I noticed it, but it wasn't excessive, even w/o PS.
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