Mine is already customized, Testing has shown thicker is not better as by the time air gets thru the back it is hot. I have a 1 1/2 inch dual rad with valves on the back of the heads that as of now run thru another rad under the front nose.Then go thru the main rad. This also added another gal of capacity,As of testing yesterday my temp never went past200 and stayed around 180 for the first time ever.This is with spal extreme fans running all the time.C&r is who built my second rad.I will send you pics to post .

 

No but dual pass does help, as does counter flow (coldest air gitting the coldest part of the rad first and as the air warms up it goes past the hotter part, that way the temp difference overall is maximum and the cooling efficiency is maximized, the same principle is used on industrial heat exchangers) On a stock type rad the hot fluid enters on the dirvers side and the cold is in the pass side tank, on mine hot enters the pass side, goes to the drivers side, then down and back over to the pass side, it effectivly splits the rad in 2 sections where the whole upper runs hotter than the lower section.

Do send pics, i think I saw something behind where the licence plate usually is but i thought that was a tube & fin oil cooler?

 

Thats a tranny cooler. I think you will like this, by the way when I shut down the extra rad ,temp goes up 20 degrees hotter quickly.

 

well spent the better part of saturday in the garage working on my "hot box". Flushed the rad 3 times drained all the coolent, installed a restrictor plate, and ran pure water and water wetter, the results ran around 210 the air temp was around 33 deg C or 90 deg F still not where I want it so I guess a new aluminum rad is my future. Thanks for all the replys guys, you were a big help.

Dave

 

210 is not bad with a blown motor of any size.I would get a spal extreme 16 inch fan from c&r racing.com You will be happy with the results.Alum rad will help but airflow is top priority.

 

Big632's cooling system pics:"

 

 

210ºF or 220ºF is fine. You should only get concerned if it goes over 235º. I think Norval has really spent a lot of time both on his ride, and posting a reply in this thread. A couple of his suggestions stick out that will get you where you want without expensive radiators. #1 is pull the thermostat...put one in when the temps turn cold agains so you can get something warm out of your vents because without a thermostat you will only be getting like 160º tops when the temps drop below 45ºF, but keep it out during the summer. #2 is a smaller pump pulley so that the pump runs faster. From an engineering standpoint the faster you can get the coolant to flow through your engine the more heat can be pulled from it...until something else becomes the limiter such as air flow through the radiator. #3 is the air dam...if you have a hot engine then take a look under the front of the radiator...the stock air dam is something that appears to be added on as an after thought...it's very low tech. What would really work down there is some actual scoops which funnel air directly into the holes in the panel covering the area under the front of the radiator. The stock air dams simply create an area of high pressure to help move air through the radiator. Some scoops will add air speed to the mix...and yes...from an engineering standpoint the faster you can get air to flow through your radiator the more heat can be removed from the coolant.

The main fact missing from many discussions on coolant is that radiated heat travels near the speed of light...because yes...it's radiation. Another form of heat transfer through a medium is proportional to the difference in the temps of the coolant and the heat source. Thus, even if the coolant only absorbs 1º at any point in the engine it has reduced it's rate of heat exchange and it would be much more efficient to push fresh coolant that is 1º cooler into that area than to wait until the coolant at that area gains like 5º, because as I pointed out...the smaller the difference in the temps of the heat source (engine) and coolant the slower the heat exchange. It's like thermo 101 for engineers...the faster you can move coolant through a system the faster it is at removing heat.

The cost of trying it out is about $5 for a thermostat cover gasket, $3 for some permatex part B, and like $15 for a smaller pully. If that doesn't work then no big deal eh?

 

THAT CAR IS BAD TO THE BONE!!!!