I finally started and at least have the half shaft disconnected. Tried beating on the broken shaft but of course it didn't budge.

Was going to remove the trailing arm but don't want to no more.
Anyone do a spindle replacement with the bolt on tool? I figure I can make one in the time it takes to remove the arm. Besides that the spindle is broken and I'm not sure this bought tool would work.
Heres part of it cleaned enough to see. The hub is still in the car.

 

the spindle press relies on the part that yours has snapped off to be still in place or it won't work. It's best to remove the whole bearing assembly and use a rpess to get things apart, your spindle probably is mushroomed on the sheared off end and will be next to impossible to get through the inner bearing especially with only a hammer (stuff that is still in tact is next to impossible to get apart w/ a hammer and spindle knocker0

If there's a tool that would work it'd be something that clamps around the bearing assembly or trailing arm and uses a long bolt in the center to push on the snapped off spindle.

 

I was thinking of this tool

 

Yes, that's the spindle press, it won't work w/ the broken off part on yours, or you need to make the bolt longer/use a longer bolt. No need for the pointy tip as the center hole is gone in your broken off one.

 

This tool can cause damage. The two bolts you see screw into the brake caliper casting. If your spindle is badly corroded, you'll have to use a lot of torque to break it loose. All that torque, will bend the brake caliper casting. After being bent, you'll have a problem alighning the caliper when you try to bolt it on; i.e. it may not fit.

I didn't know this and used the tool. Fortunately, my car doesn't have much of a corrosion/rust problem. It took about 105 foot pounds of torque to break the spindle loose. When I replaced the brake calipers, ....yes, I had to use some thin shims because the brake caliper casting had been bend a little bit. (This shim alighnment process took a few hours!)

I took the parts to Tom's Differential for re-assembly with new rear axle bearings. They told me I should not have used this tool, and explained the possible danger of the tool. Using a hydraulic press is the safest way to get the spindle out. As I understand it, replacing the spindle and bearings, requires a press and specialized tools and an education, and then after all that you still need some experience to get it all correct. If you aren't prepared for this just send the thing into Van Steel (forum sponsor). Most people here in the forum use Van Steel. (I had mine done by Toms since they are only a 20 minute drive away.)

 

That tool is referenced in the GM manual by remember when guys would bring in a vette to a dealership for rear bearings? You would get a $3,000 bill for new spindles, shock supports, strut rods, bearing supports,etc after they brole everything associated with it. Then you didn't know where they set the endplay to, could be between .001-.008" anything over .003" is a waste of your time and money. They need to be between .001-.002"
Use a press with a spindle knocker on the threads to protect them. That's a 3/4-20 automotive thread you won't find it at most locations unless you have a good industrial suppliers.
Gary

 

We have a 50 ton hydralic press at work, along with some very good mechanics if I can't handle the shimming. Guess it comes off.
Was wondering about the endplay, production always has wide limits.

I guess the homemade plate is harder in the end.

I've got 4 day weekends so if I maintain even a low motivation should have ready for wednesday.

Gotta cut the grass too.
I've got a robotic mower so thats kind of a joke.